Lmackattack

Heck....they all ride nice when your at 80K gross. LOL

Mark the first time I ever remember seeing a MH it had a paint job just like yours. I remember it well because there was 2 of them ,same paint job, and both were pulling an end dump. They were working near a creek that passed under a major roadway in town. the trucks were backing off the road and down to near the edge of the creek. Problem was the cabovers were to tall to fit under the bridge to get to the backhoe. The R models fit under just fine LOL...Sharp trucks but not the best for construction LOL

RW613... thats the nicest MH I have ever seen. that is a truck that gets noticed. Bet it passes alot of them up also if the pump has been adjusted...

OH GOD if the drivers of Today were in a cab over I would say the Drivers death rates would double! I really feel bad for the good ones out there. they just stay quiet and dont interact like they used to. Seams the last few years I cant even get a bear report or a reply even after I give one. I rarely get a flash of the lights after I pass a truck at night.

yep. regaedless of function,looks,or wheelbase the last thing I want to be is the first person at the accident. and if we want to talk about looks. thats easy....everyone has their own opinions on what looks good and what is ugly

thought that was his name. I think I met him once when I was traveling thru NM I think he came down to the interstate to meet me. may have sold him a bumper or something?

dont forget about the Rmodel window crank, I think they copied that design from the B model?? LOL

Chicago still has a good handfull of R models running around but I have not seen a B model that was working on the road in 3 years. in the past 8 years Most of the big construction fleets switched to Pete or KW when they bought their last round of new trucks . Even Meyer meterial went to KW after being pretty much 100% Mack. they had a few Fords and some Oskosh from the mid 90s but the DMs and R models were there truck of choice untill recently. Seams like every year I see less and less macks around here. on the bright side I still see a few large fleets that have bought some new Macks for lowboy use.

hmmm... your glove box door (back side) does not have the diagram of relays and such.. I think that was the factory location for some of the newer R models? . What about your tail lights do they go off when the relay trips?. just trying to isolate where to look. one other option is to go straight to the junction block on the outside fire wall. find the terminal to the roof lights and see if putting power directly to them lights them up. check the tail lights and gauge lights at the same time. if you can get them to lite up from the junction block that would suggest the short is between the relay panel and switch or from a bad wire in the dash. most of the electrical issues I have had were ground issues or a louse wire behind the dash.

do the headlights turn off when the braker trips? on alot of macks the 3 center roof lights turned on/off with the head lights. the clearance lamps were on a diffrent switch. if those 3 lights come on but are turning off when the braker "trips" it sounds like you have a short to those lights or to the rear tail lights. could also be the dash gauge lights. it will be a PITA to find. Start with the dash panels and see if you can wiggle the switch and make it stop, then check the rear tail lights, if you still on the chase remove the interior over head consol. the main wire loom to power the roof lights,radio, etc... runs just above the windshield. look for a louse wire touching metal or a worn spot. Have FUN!!!!!!

I forget the guys name but he was an active ATHS member a while back. Cant recall his name now. Think he was from NM? I recall some threads he made about fixing her up. Trent

that "sleeper" looks like it was one of those plastic sleepers they offered in the early 80s?. I have seen a few and boy are they small inside.

to get best results you will need to pull the tanks out so you can get them clean around the strapes and hard to reach aeras. if they have nicks in them you will have to wet sand them out untill the surface is smooth again. when all that is done you buff them with 2-3 diffrent pads to get that ultra smooth finish. I have tried to get old tanks to look new and it is vary hard to get right. I have enven heard that some people will clear coat them to prevent the dull look from the elemnets. I dont like clear coat because as soon as it chips you have to remove all of the clear to get them to look good again. Remember that most guys with their show trucks dont take them out in the salt and off road much. most old show trucks use new aluminum tanks or have alot of time to get them perfect. if you work your truck alot just a good buff and wax will go along way if you keep up on them

In all my years looking for macks on the road I have only seen 2 U models with a sleeper. both had small 36" sleepers and Boy were they ugly... LOL.....

Rob glad you found it. how long does it take you to get yourself into a twisted mess to access this tank? Or can you reach it from the top?

a 350 with a 9 was a good combo for over the road truck. THe 12 speed was both on and off road and had all the gears that you wanted when loaded. Bonus was you could drive it like a 5 speed empty, you had 5 reverse gears, a extream low low. However there may be an issue with your current Rear end ratio. you may need a faster ratio to go with the slower ratios of the 12 speed? the 9 speed has a fast OD and if I recall the rear ends used with it were commonly in the 4.42-5.02 range. With a 12 speed you would want something in the 3.87-4.42 range to get the top end speed and good pulling RPM. All of this needs to be calculated to see what your RPM split is and what the top end will be.

Working for Gully? hes an active ATHS member. never met him but he is a well know die hard Freightliner owner. Hes not impressed with them lately and was looking into macks because of the issues at Freightliner. good luck with the test

The owner...a guy named mack, who ownes a Volvo.....im Speachless.... 1.5 is impressive tho.....

look who stopped by for a photo with my truck. they were so nice even in 20 degree weather....

Here is what I would like under my tree... I dont need them all, any 2 of them would be fine..thank you..

my opinion is that any time you let a engine idel more than 5 mins you should bump the idel up to aroud 800 RPM. It raises oil press and will burn a little cleaner.

the clamp that holds the turbo snale to the center section? or the outlet of the turbo to the crossover pipe to the box? that would explain your high EGT and the tip turbine not working or sounding as it should... glad you found the issue!.

I saw that on the TV last week... man I feel for you. you are lucky you had fuel. I was shut down last monday on I65 for the same reasons. Brand new UPS truck with a set of doubles went over and blocked the NB lanes. luckly it was only about 1 hours wait. regarding the pay that is kinda poor....$25 a load is good if you can keep moving and make the loads. If your waiting longer than it takes to get loaded and takes longer to wait in line for the dump it becomes a sad rate at the end of the day. Figure each load takes 30 min round trip thats 20 loads in 10 hours. $25 x 20 loads is only $500. put $150 back in the tank and you only made $350 in 10 hours or $35 an hour...

I had heard about this truck when I was buying parts from my local PAI store. they closed the doors a few years back but the parts guys were telling me that the company was building a old B model. Guess it was you???? very nice job. looks like a great truck.

thanks, sal's truck is sweet id like to do my exhaust like his, did he make new brackets or is there a kit to bolt up tp the factory brackets, thanks dont know if it helps But I just made some new Exhaust mounts for My RS700. the factory cab mount brackets were made for 9" mufflers. just a simple band but they were a problem all the time, crooked and sagging etc... What I did was used the factory inner cab stiffner plates but made my own out side brackets. Once they were bolted to the cab I used a Pete style clamp to hold the straight stack closer to the cab bracket.. I could have made them about 2" closer but I think they look fine. I can still fit a muffler on if I want but that was not the look I wanted. the top mount is factory it uses the rain rail to hold a steel bracket/clamp a quick fab and I also used the same pete style clamp up top. the hard part was adding the bottom under cab bracket. I used a angle iron welded to the inder side that has holes for a saddle clamp to hold the bottom of the elbow. the lower clamps support all the weight and the rain rail bracket just holds the pipe straight and level.