Lmackattack

I think the superliner has another 3" of hood than that of a RS/RL700s. I say this as I measured my RS700 hood when parked next to a Superliner. I recall the superliner was a few " longer and the hood also sits taller due to the cab sitting a few " higher than a RS/RL. I know that the Cummins did not look cramped in a Superliner. in fact it looks just like any other truck that had one under the hood.

Unless they changed in recent years.....yes the forward and rear diffs have the 2 bolts inside the covers. the covers are inspection covers so that you can see whats going on inside. I think I used a socket and extention but I cant recall. I know the mack mechanics had some special tools to make it easy to get at them or they took a wrench heated it up and bend it so that you can get a good bite on the bolts. the cover comes off easy with (4) 9/16 bolts it may leak a little oil but normaly it all drains into the bottom housing Good point on checking the housing. My RR diff had cracks at the rear 3 bolts. looked as if it blew out at some time and pulled the flange upwards when she let go. When you re seal them most just clean and add sealant. I think there was a housing gasket but not sure if they caused more bad than good?

drop drive shafts. pull axels. remove any air lines that are mounted to the diff housings remove torque rods/side torque rods. remove diff side covers to access the 2 bolts behind them. remove the rest of the diff bolts. the rear rear will pull straight up. the forward diff may be tricky. if you cant slide the 5th wheel all the way back or slide off. you may have to remove it. Not sure if your rears are springs or air but that will come into where the cross members are. If the crossmember is far forward you may be able to sneak it out by jacking up the rear axel to the stops and use the extra room to pull the forward diff out of the housing,forward and up thru the rails. first time will take about 5-7 hrs to get both out if everything goes smooth. I did it for my first time last year and the hardest part was getting to the forward rear inside bolts.

found the auto car site lastnight. I see they build YArd and refuse trucks. I thought all the ones I see out west were just old White GMC? and they last in the nice warm CA weather? Is vulva outselling mack again? last I saw they were falling behind? Only ask because I see more OTR vulvas than Vocational macks? see very few vulva vocational trucks here in Chicago. Mack owners around here went to paccar in the last 10 years.Mainly after the R-RD was noted that it was ending soon.just a few recently came back. What I thoght was odd was that many of the old 100% mack fleets always bought R models and wanted more.It would be intresting to see the sales numbers for the last 5-10 years of R-RD. I know a few fleets bought large orders of them to get in before they ended the model. over that same time frame Dealers seamed to push the CH hard but fewer CH showed up and older Rs kept working. Yea the Macks from Down under look alot better than what we get over here. Wonder how mack sales are over there. the superliner and trident look more like a mack then the vison and titans. Not trying to step on anyones trucks and put them down just my .02 on what IMO looks better.

Did Auto car go completly under or is it still a part of volvo? I know they had a website that said they built low entry garbage trucks (kinda like the Mack LE).. have never seen any on the road tho?

looking good Bobo. My cab was looking like that early this year after I Removed and Replaced the stock rotting out roof.Rob was a great help with all my bodywork questions so he deserves credit for the help! I know what you are going thru. every time you remove this, you might as well remove that. next thing you know the whole truck is stripped. I am curently working on a RW713 with a E9450. Former boss ownes it and I always wanted to restore it. I like working on the long hood macks. just something about them....keep the pics coming!

2 of them at the yard where I park... I think they are 350-400 HP both backed by 13 speeds

to Be honest I have a hard time sitting in a truck stop anymore when I want to eat. I just cant stant to watch the slobs talking with their mouths open and complaning about why they cant get a better deal. im not stud myself and could louse 30 lbs so I try to just eat small and run so that when I get home I can eat right. I have only been trucking for about 11 years but remember it was alot more plesant when I started. When I started You could pull up a chair at the counter and talk to the guy next to you and have a few laughs. I feel like now if you pull up that chair its going to be next to some idiot that dont shower,cant speak,and knows nothing about trucking. I wear jeans and a company shirt(most of the time) only time I put sweatpaints on is when Im at home on the weekends. after a relaxing shower and getting ready for bed. Never leave the house with them on thats for sure! Shoes... I have boots, or gym shoes. All depending if Im working in construction or just doing the OTR runs for work.

the thing is I dont think half of them want to drive a truck. they just are down and out and herd that trucks are now automatics easy to drive etc. And what a easy way to get a job. free training and a licence. all you have to do is give them X amount of time after you get the CDL and stoop for a cheep pay rate while you train. you work for a year and then when you get board you quit and still retain your CDL.

The GF and I just about died from laughing so hard!!!!

Thanks Rahsler Sounds like its turning a little slow then... throttle is wide open so Will have to mess with it to get the RPM back....Ok nother problem ...im on a string of bad luck... the new tach drive just went out. Have to pull it tomorrow to see why. Last tach drive had the a cracked shaft that incerts into the block. What is it driven off of? Im thinking what ever turns the tach drive has too much slop and is braking the shaft? any thoughts?

yea the grade in and out is steep but im talking about that 10 mile stretch of I-80 just east of Park city,,,about 20-40 miles east? real fun to drive as the view is cool. I dont mess around on grades. but in the twisties I use both lanes when there is no traffic around. Every now and then I see some of the other truckers doing the same thing.

Wierd....LOL... I liked the part where he was using all the lanes thry the S turns. I do the same thing out on I80 in UT... near park city. 45mph curves? my ass... Guess im just a law braking trucker?

Brockway? Cat 1693? cant find them in the photos? I did like the boots tho!

Sadly im sceptical about its survival? and agree Volvo is the only thing keeping it afloat. I dont see any large fleets switching to Mack. Many long time mack fleets went to paccar in the past 10 years and few looked back. others went cheep and bought FL,Sterlings. I think Mack has made some improvements over the years but they seam to make more bad choices than good? (Volvo pushing most of them) I understand why they have parts shareing and shared platforms but alot of the die hard mack people dont like the other changes that were made. I hear of the lack of spec options that were once availible, the EPA issues, relocating/ letting go those who worked at mack for years. trucks that dont perform as well as other mfg, these are just some reasons that have lead the company down hill fast. Setting aside my old school roots I still think that Mack needs to brand themselves better. they have shown more positive sides lately but they still have that odd ball, fleet spec,cheep truck image. I know lots of mack owners that really dont like the looks of the new mack but they are just die hard mack owners and continue to buy them. I still think the line up is lacking. tMack have 2 kinds of trucks 1)garbage trucks 2)dump trucks.... Period The on road trucks are just dump trucks on a volvo frame with some stainless added to them, the titan was an absolute failure. The idea was brillant but the out come clearly failed. Its lack of styling,no sleeper options, high price, to name a few, are way out of line compaired to other mfg. When I see all these other MFG building classic looking trucks seprate from their aero trucks I just scratch my head watching mack trying to use one model and mold it into 3. GM tried that 20 years ago and look how that all turned out hope im wrong...and this is just my .02 Trent

I like the one that randy speaks of. its not as bulky and you can set the idle speed faster. half a twist locks or unlocks. In IL it works great for cruise control(no hills!)

With the western models the bigger hood was for bigger engine and radiators options. In the US the Air cleaners were speced... underhood,passenger side or dual. some dealers would even send the trucks to a truck "Hop up shop" to have all the stanless and chrome stuff added. these shops would finish off the truck per the dealer/owners spec request. this included things such as fifth wheel install, dump bodie installes and stainless goodies.

Alright I got the tach drive installed today.. pretty easy with a magnet tool to get the crows foot in. I noticed they had the crows foot in backwards so im sure that helped it wear out faster. Got it for around $90 at my local mack dealer. Next issue. I think this engine is running a little under powered? this is a 1991 E9 450Hp gov @1900 RPM. The Tach only reads 1800 at full throttle (no load). I dont recall if they should spin faster than the advertised governed RPM with no load? I know the 6 cyl macks would spin to around 2250-2300 RPM with no load. Whats the boost range on this engine. I cant get more than 15 psi out of it and it seams as soon as the boost comes on at 1500 it falls off at 1700. This truck has that air throttle so im not sure if the pump is getting full fuel. I also think it has a torque limiter device. Any thoughts.

Oh.... sorry, I miss read what you wanted to do... anyways. find the air tank that the air compressor feeds into. Just follow the copper line from the compressor to the first air tank. thats your "wet tank". Put a air fitting onto that tank and it will feed air to the whole system just as if the truck was running. you will have parking and service air press as soon as you start filling it. Trent

well considering that the air compressor is bolted to the engine. the engine needs to run to make air.?put the fitting on the wet air tank so that as air press drops the gov kicks in and puts the compressor back to work. You will need to run a hose from the wet tank up to the deck plate as its a PITA to get under the truck every time you need to get air. or just use the red trailer hose with a glad hand and hose to a air fitting.push the red park knob in when you want to get air from it