Lmackattack

those guys are faster than some of the 22'End dump guys I see around here. LOL

I see alot of them used out west but recently seen a few here in IL. Mostly dumpsters on both the truck and pup. Not sure if they are dropping off empty dumpsters or picking up loaded or both? Makes sence to be able to drop or grab 2 when the truck is out tho....

LATE 70S-EARLY 80S MUST HAVE BEEN MOVING PRETTY GOOD TO GET THE STONES OVER THE HOOD!!! THATS TO BAD BUT GLAD NO ONE WAS HURT...

ONLY IF THEY ADDED 6+ INCHES TO EXTEND THE CAB WALL BACK FURTHER!!!!.

yep seen that happen on my truck but my joints were taking grease so I thought they were ok. Then one day I went to the pit to get a load of sand. pulled up on the scale and could hear a creaking sound. Got off the scale and felt the u joint and it was hot to the touch. Drove it nice and slow to the yard 5 miles away. it was smoking hot by now. but that helped push it out!

I was afraid of that. IMO the 2 part seals are junk...untill you need to replace a leaky one then they are nice that you dont have to pull the trans! LOL

1977 285 tip turbine...Thinking about pulling the pan soon to check the rods and mains. Never had it off yet. Truck holds 30 psi of oil press at warm idle but it never gets above 45 psi when its warmed up running down the road at full RPM. Cold start it slowly comes up to 60 psi and never higher. just dont like that low of press as all the other macks I drove held about 55 psi running down the road. Will likely replace the oil pump while in there also. Wondering if the rear main seal can be replaced with the pan off? is it a 2 part seal. I cant recall and its been 10 years the last time I did a rear main. at that time the trans was off and the engine was apart...

Your correct David. I will have the braces ready to install after a few mods are made so they clear everthing. I also need to weld tabs to the radiator cage to accept the braces. I will be useing R model braces with the rubbers to soften the shock. the upper "X brace and hood rest bump rubbers will be removed and rollers installed. Hood already has the channels for the rollers to ride in. Really not to big of a swap. was just waiting to find afordable used Mack parts for the job. This Truck really rides hard bob tail or loaded. Harder than most R models I have driven. Its got a 206" WB but likes to buck over small bumps. Hopefully the air ride cab will sofen that. All the superliners I drove with camelbacks rode pretty good bob tail with the big single bag. With a trailer I thought they rode very well and still gave a positive feel to the truck.

I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS!

thanks for that info. Looks like the CH (non sleeper) will work for my RS700L Im making a air ride cab set up out of used CH parts and my stock RS700 parts. Just needed to know what hight the cab should sit and if the hight was about the same. THANKS AGAIN

anyone know if the superliner and CH cab air ride bags are close to the same bag size and ride hight?. Im looking at a CH bag set up if It will work. I think the Superliner has a 7" ride hight... what does the CH ride at?

Happy Birth day Barry. thanks for all you do for us

The 2" gauge covers I used are United Pacific #20550. The larger tach and speedo covers are United Pacific #20554. Fyi...If intrested they have a part number for the bezels with visors... Some of my newer gauges had a wider lip so I had to use a Dremil sanding wheel to remove a little plastic meterial from the inside of the covers. Some fit just perfect? The ones I had to mod do fit tight over them now and a dab of clear silicone (allowed to dry before instaled) around the inside of the cover allows then to grab the gauge nice and tight. The tach and speedo also fit tight I did nothing to them.... hope that helps Trent

WTF?

looking good. Will it have one of those nice stainless steel water tanks on it?

a few more

had about an hour to stop over at the yard and add a few more trim rings,dash emblems and screws..

Typo LOL... We had a DT466 in one of our IH 4000 seriers truck at work. I was thinking of the DT466 tag on the hood. I hope it looks diffrent than a IH but still in a Medium duty chassi that can compete with the IH

Saw a few pete garbage trucks in the mid west. mostly dumpster haulers. Hope mack dont louse that local market like they did with the Construction market. past 10 years now in Chicago Mack is not that popular with new dump trucks but they do hold ground with WM,groot, and other large Garbage co. Kinda sad when thats what Mack is now known for around here... GARBAGE trucks

I think this engine is just old and it has blowby? the Turbo is old also so it may be comeing thru there as well? I would rebuild it but it has not been on the road for 2 years and It still pulls just fine. What I need to do is pour some Diesel in the crank case and run it for a few min when its hot. Drain the pan and let it sit over night draining. Havent done a oil change in 2 years but it only has 5oo miles on her. It had lots of idle time last year from moving it around the yard...\\

I hope its something like close to a DT466. The mid liner and those freedome things were a joke. Saw a bunch of mack fleets buy them to keep a 100% mack fleet and then found that the parts for them were hard to get and nothing interchanged with the other macks in the yard!

Thats was the sled puller that cracked the block in half. Head stayed on so cant blame the Head bolts!

Intresting.... And way to leave us hanging

Thats what happens at 100 psi of boost and 3000+ RPM!

I run standard oil in both my Trucks. at work I run synthetic in the Cat engine. the Macks tend to build up with soot realy fast. the oil is black after a few days the cat is clean untill 4000 miles and then it starts to get dark. never have put an additive in the engine oil but have used lucas stop leak in the hubs,boxes and rears, It does reduce leaks. As far as the oil additives for the engine you can look at it a few ways. A engine with soot often slows leaks. when the soot is removed the leaks start. on the other hand a clean engine will likely last longer. Personaly I would like to use synthetic but that wont happen untill I have rebuilt the engine and replaced all the old seals. I was told that standard and synthetic oils dont mix well. I try to keep it one or the other....