Lmackattack

Rowdy... I drove a few DT466 with the 6 plus trans. Loved the trucks as they had power and did very well for its size. But I really dont like that transmission. the gate pattern was to tight and I think those transmissions were synqronized? (sp?) I could not shift that thing smooth unless I used the clutch. I always was banging into 2nd and could never find 4th at the right time. The ratio step was great but just never could shift them smooth?

I think you are asking about what drive shaft shops call Phase? Each shaft should be "in phase" or 90 deg "out of phase". if you have a twisted shaft the yokes will be less than 0 or 90 deg. that will cause unbalance issues. your forward and rear driveshafts will rotate at diffrent speeds in tight turns. thus they will always be changing. does not matter where one is in relation to the other. Angle and slope is another story. look here for more info. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index2.html

the torqe rods just keep the axels from rolling forward and back wards on/off the throttle. they dont do much to keep them from going side to side. I would check the transverse rod bushings,trunion bushing, and pads, Also,you mention that you recently had a spring replaced? re-tighten the trunion u bolts to spec. I think the book spec is 1200-1400 ft lbs? you will need a torque multiplier to do so.

I think Camelbacks over 38K had the torque rod that bolts to the frame rail to the rear end housing. If yours still have axels that "walk" side to side with new rods. check the trunion bushing and all the pads at the spring ends. If they wear out they will allow the axels to move around and off track. It is normal for them to walk in hard turns but they should go back to normal when driving straight. They make diffrent pads to reduce vibration and If I recall they had ones that reduced them walking to one side? may have been an offset pad they made. cant recall if they made them or not but I know they had rubber or urathane versions.... regarding the washers. I know Air ride set ups use shims to align the rears so I dont see why you could not do the same. only problem I see is that if the previous owner used washers to bandaid a bad pad or bushing you will have to replace them at some point to properly fix the issue.

nice looking truck. I saw alot of NY and NJ macks have the green and red combo. Not so much anymore tho? I remember about 8 years ago I was in West Point NY and saw 3 Mack R600 tractors hauling tankers, they all looked just like this one. Then saw a few old Autocars and DM macks with garbage compactors that had the green and red as well. I thinkn the auto car had a darker green so it stood apart from the macks. they were all from the same company. Kinda sad how even fleet trucks now dont stand out this well.

NICE!!!! sad but true

the ones I have seen and used were just made to use on both sides. they will both make contact with steel and see the same abuse. If the ring you speak of is what I think it is.... its to keep the plate stuck to the kingpin when you unhook. its kindof like a locking tab that holds onto the pin. I had one on the work truck and liked it. less grease on the tandems and frame. down fall was when someone hooked up to my trailer and got is all messy again!

you should be able to remove the pump without re setting the timing. the pump should be "offset Keyed" so that it can only go back in one way. just mark the pump so that it goes back in the same and dont crank the engine while its out.

I work for a company that sells Racecars/Auto Racing parts in 3 diffrent series...ALMS,Formula Ford 2000 and IMSA lites. We also have a 2 car race team that competes in the IRL. Been working here for 10 years so far driving that parts truck and rebuilding Suspension

On my RS I have a donaldson 2 outlet filter housing that takes 2 filters. It has 1 short / 1 tall filter elements that are seaparated by a metal plate. each element feeds a diffrent tube. What I want to know is why did they have 2 filter elements and is there a way to just to use a sungle filter element? I went searching for numbers and I found a sticker on the upper filter but I cant find a part number on my lower filter. I went to napa and carquest this week and cant find any part numbers that cross refrence... anyone have a part number for a single filter that fits this style housing? VIN RS786LST32474 Thanks Trent

sounds like a bad govener if it leting it build over 120 psi. regarding the leakdown. it also may be leaking thru the signal line to/from the govener????

Im glad I dont have to go into big citys often with the race hauler. but when I do Its not fun. I took the back roads thry upstate NY a few months ago and In the small towns needed all lanes at the intersections to make turns. Buildings on all 4 corners just 4' back from the street. My Trailer is 53' with the axels solid mouted at the rear I cant hop large curbs with the side farings near the wheels. then the gen box sticks out and have to watch both mirrors on a hard turn to make sure the box dont take out a pole. when we do the downtown events many times I go in at night just to avoid trying to get in the central part of the city with heavy traffic. the small towns are just as bad. Knock on wood I have never gotten stuck under a bridge or on a dead end street (yet) and I know what you mean with directions. How hard is it to figure out where you are from any major freeway or major intersection?????

glad its fixed!

What I did a few years back was ordered the center bullet light from mack and then bought the other 4 lights from a chrome shop. the style and bulb type were all the same, If you want LED you can buy LED "bulbs" that fit the socket. you can get the bright LED bulbs from $5-$14 each. Check out this site for bulbs http://www.truxaccessories.com/main/LED_Bulb.html

that engine and trans was a common OTR set up. Kanzlers valuliner with that steering box on it that we need to get off. has the same specs except it has 3.87 rears. If I recall The truck could hit 75MPH on the hiway.

what?..... Have not seen that done......yet..... I think a CH hood is wider than a R? I know the cab feels a little wider. I think the CH is set back axel, R model hoods are forward axel. you may be able to use a RB hood? anything can be done if you have the time and skill

Never ran tube tires.... I always ran what the mfg said was the max. unless it was a show truck, then I ran as low as 80 in the steer and 50 psi just for ride comfort to and from local shows...

Could also back the slacks all the way off so the shoes dont contact the drums

on older trucks it was possible. I think the problem with new trucks is the tractor protection valve??? If I recall you could hook air to the red hose. push the valve in and air could be put into the emergency tank to charge? With new trucks if its not the Tractor Protection Valve its the check valves thru the system that dont allow this. They obviously only let air flow one way. It shuts if air tries to flow back to the tank. Rob on the RS macks I put a air tool fitting on the wet tank. I can charge it with shop air if I want to move the truck without waiting for it to charge. a monkey wrench and a air tool fitting is all that is needed (besides the air!) Works great.

All I know is this same question seams to come up once every 3 weeks. A bad vibration can be so many things that many times its not just one problem... I had a bad U joint that took grease and did not leak out. Dident know untill I replaced it. then I had a bad drive tire. Belts were shot and was way out of balance. Worn cab rubbers may have magnified the issue so I replaced them at the same time..All examples shook the truck just the same. started at 35mph and went away around 50. if you stayed in the power it was less. worse when coasting... Its just one of those gremlins that you will have to chase.

2nd place that night search user "Lmackattack" on youtube for all the pulls we have made with this truck. 2010 pulls http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkyrSouBScg http://www.youtube.com/user/Lmackattack#p/u/10/Exyhst1zGLw 2009 pulls http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DHbjfdsZiM&NR=1 http://www.youtube.com/user/Lmackattack#p/a/u/0/zKvW12yLMWU

for those that like smoke. this was our first pull of the 2010 season... 2nd gear start..

IIRC my buzzer was under the dash near the steering colum. also had a low oil press switch hooked to the oil line near the LH panel that connector ran to a buzzer as well....

seams to be a common problem with macks of this era. Tires, driveshaft,U joint,Cab rubbers,Motormounts, shocks, springs are all possible things, Start with the easy stuff first.... Its never one issue. My truck had the same problem. it was bad shocks and tires

TRTXL1070 was the model number... It should be a OD transmission I checked and if its a .78OD that will give me about 77MPH at 2100 or 65mph at 1700. A little tall geared for a 285 but if I will have more low gears and a go home gear