Lmackattack

good write up. Barry Can we sticky this ? its a question that gets asked about 100 times a year LOL

LOOK ON EBAY. THERE ARE A FEW PEOPLE MAKING FLAPS CHEEP. THEY MAY LIST THEM AS MACK, PETE, KW ETC.. BUT THEY ALSO MENTION TO SEND IN YOUR ART WORK OR A PIC THEY CAN RESIZE TO MAKE YOU YOUR OWN......

nice looking truck...Fyi...there is a guy down in Galt Ca that has some old mack Parts. if you need a local source for parts PM me and I will give you his info

a little story about hitting your head on the cab. Was in a new dump site just off of Cermack and I-294. the road in of the street was paved and then turned into gravel. they would spray water at the entrance/exit for dust control. the water had pooled in a low spot in the haul road. under this pool of water was a large pot hole at the edge of the entrace side of the roadway. it was right ware the pavement stopped and gravel started. anyways I was on my way out of the dump and a guy in a newer CH was heading in. I slowed and was going to let him over to my side to avoid the pot hole. It must have been his first time in this dump because he drove right into the hole. the right tire fell in. he hit his head on the driver side window and as the tire came bouncing back out of the holeit pretty much thru him the rest of the way out of his seat and onto the gear stick. I Stopped and saw he was ok but a little shook up. I told the scale house and they had it fixed by the time I got back. the look on his face was priceless.

Hi Rob I have been going thru the RS the last few years replacing valves and such, I am not an expert at this and still learning... if the truck does not have spring brakes the hardest part will be plumbing in the dash valves to anti componding valves and makeing sure it works as intended. I still cant figure out where all the hoses end up with all the tee fittings and such coming off the valves. I replaced my foot valve last night and it had about 12 lines coming off of it. looking at the bendix air brake handbook it says i only should have 6? the reason I had so many hoses is that Mack put the 2 stop light switchs on the foot valves,and the anti compounding valve was tied into it. It was way to messy in my opinion. had to remove 3 fittings to get at one and it was just a puzzle trying to put the nev valve in. I would suggest remote mounting any other valves away fromt the foot valve and to a location on the fire wall or in a place that has more space to access all the air lines. just for simplicity reasons when changing out a valve. with the newer air brake parts I noticed Bendix offers dash valve assy that take alot of the air hose mess out of it./ they also have tractor protection valves with built in brake light switches. some of these items will save you from having a mess of extra air lines.. I think the simple way to approach this is to start at the cab and see what you will need there as all air lines enter and leave this aera. you will see real fast that air lines will end up all over the place and you may even need a new air tank for the parking system. Its a nightmare LOL

What is the inlet size on the top of the air filter for the tip turbine motors... I know they use a larger size to help feed the tip turbine and turbo from the same filter. If you ever noticed,,,,the front mount air to air 300s have a smaller filter inlet than a 285 charge cooler filter....

this is a pic I found of the N model owned by my friend in CA. Its got a a Mack diesel but dont recall the transmission. Interior color is simmilar to a early R model. that puke green color.

what info are you looking for I have a friend with a N model Mack. I can give him a call with some questions Trent

hmmm... I thought all 2 valve 300+ and 2 valve 350s had the air to air and air to water charge cooler?

is this ETZ673 the same as a ENDT676 285hp? they look the same from the out side? was the ETZ just a Ca emissions motor? Alwasy wondered what a ETZ was desegnated for. seamed kinda rare of a engine?

look for a galvanized steel cab. I think those were 1985+ years = less rust issues Look at sheet metal around rain gutter,window frames,door frames, under cab corners and door bottoms these are the most common rust locations. if its a common early-mid 80s mack it will likely have a 285-300 engine. 5-6 speed 4.17 rears on camelback. if this is what it has Check Trunion for cracks check double frames for spreading hood hindge aera for cracks in fiberglass king pins will have to have the front of truck raised off the ground to see how much slop there is

Project: Remove old door glass and replace with new glass... simple 1hr job,right? Here is how mine went. Day one... remove door panel. remove/ replace glass. See rust at bottom inside of door sand and coat door inside with epoxy cover door with dynamat remove vent window replace vent window replace door seals replace window wipers day 2.... touch up paint around window cant install door panel as paint is drying check floor boards for rust rust found remove gear lever x 2 remove floor boards snap of 2 foot valve bolts order foot valve sand and coat floor boards with rubber paint put dynamat on floor boards cant complet dynamat on floors order more dynamat to finish floors fix shifter cover boots remove heater box from fire wall remove fuse panel from fire wall remove old fire wall insulation (to be replace with dynamat) coat fire wall with rubber paint wait for rain to stop install vent window insall window panel day 2 ends with half the cab interior still on the deck plate

well if you want to go cheep ya can pull both heads,intake,exhaust,etc...all at once if you just plan to do the bottem end. that saves time and $$ Regarding internal parts... I have heard that the older mack brand stuff is now "made in china" and the PAI stuff is now about as good as the mack stuff. However in the last 8 or so years I have seen a few more failures with PAI pistons the last being 3 years ago and 2 failed PAI pistions in the same motor 100,000 miles... they may have improved but dont know. is that engine just tired or...?

belts tight? kink in hoses? if you turn the heater on does it blow hot? coolant level low? Head gasket issue? regarding the boost gauge... When I first installed mine it seamed to hold steady at 25psi now it holds steady untill about 20 and then starts to flutter? dont know why it does this.. I taped my gauge into the top of the intake runner. my guess was the pulse of the gauge is caused when the vlaves are opening/closing near the tapped in boost gauge line. air is moving/stoping as the valves open and shut? I just dont know why it was fine before?

Will have to see. I have the RS700 all torn apart waiting for parts. If its not ready I would have no way to get the sled pulling tractor up north. I will let you know if we plan to go. sound slike a good time.. Trent

you got lucky that the tractor stayed up. most frame trailers like to take the tractor with you when they go over. First job in Trucking I pulled a 24' frame end dump. leared the dos and donts real quick...knock on wood I never turned one over (yet) but came close a few times.

here is our 285 powered sled puller. only thing done was the pump was turned up and puff disconnected. 40,000lbs and wheels spinning. 2nd direct. these motors can do some impressive stuff with just stock parts.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESgdON55V6E&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKvW12yLMWU

I think that is the one that I recall. never worked on on that suspension but It looks as I remember it. I recall it did have a few issues but never knew much about it to research it. I drove 3 trucks with this style and always liked how smooth they were (for a spring ride)when empty. they also had 4 dampers(one at each corner) to help control the tandems... If I recall only the 2 or 3 upper springs made contact with the lower main springs when the truck was loaded. hard to explain but I think one spring was arched a little diffrent? correct me if im wrong? Trent

the taperleaf I think had 3 or 4 springs and had a nicer ride than camelback. however IMO they were not as strong and seamed to be used more in On road tractors. Camelback is pretty bullet proof and parts are cheep. both did good in the off road but camelback could take overloads alot better. Nothing wrong with either and if its not going to be used for work the taperleaf will put less abuse on you and the truck. just my .02

not sure. looking at it I would say it was a canadian built truck with the big OTR tanks and spread tandems on air ride... ??? there are a few pics of it over at ATHS. I passed this truck on I80 about a week ago and then It showed up at the National ATHS show in CA over the weekend

bump the injection pump settings up 15-20% install a front mount if you have the room. if no room tweak the tip turbine boost inlet valve a little to allow more boosted air flow into the turbine. make sure the puff limiter is working correctly or disable it..you should feel a increase with this advice. Trent

chop cut and weld on to the current frame. I will put some inner frame rail channels across the welds and bolt them in between cross members on both sides of the weld. Im thinking I will stretch it to about 200" WB and this way if I want to add a sleeper down the road I will have some frame rail to do so.

have fun with that Larry. Think Ill let you test the waters with a old newway set up going under a B model. I have a neway tandem cut off that Im getting from a friend. As soon as he has time to cut it out of a junked tractor I will freshen it up and install it. For now I will just watch you and avoid any of your mistakes LOL!!!!! thanks trent

well got the driver side out tonight. came out easy as there was some rust in there with it. looked to be original glass as I saw a date safty stamp of what looked like 1977...LOL. it came out easy and a new rubber went in nice and snug. While I was in there I installed some Dynamat to help sound dead the truck. This weekend I plan to install dynamat in the other door,floor, rear cab wall and fire wall, Hopefull it will help quiet this truck down as its pretty noisy! im adding a 1/2 thick pad on the floor and fire wall so we will see if that helps Trent

I have never tried to remove the door glass from the channel that it rests in. how hard is it to get it dislodged from the rubber that holds it in?..fyi...im not talking about removing the DOOR panel.. thats the easy part!