Lmackattack

$500 starting bid, reserve not met with no bids? wonder why its not selling... I bought My RS for 3k and drove it home from Kansas City. that truck needs 3K just to get out of the yard on its own power...poor dog....

my opinion. 24' steel end dump, you can haul anything with them. 1/4 frames stay level better as far as raising a loaded box. frameless is just about as good but a little unstable on one rear axel. the plus of a frameless is the dump angel is better and they are cheeper. you can order standard or low sides if you do alot of bob cat work.If you do go with a low side Make sure the tail gate is standard. this way the concrete will not get stuck as easy. ask me how I know...... Tubs look nice, and tend to stay cleaner but puts the load CG higher. air tail gate locks are nice and if you have the extra $ a air lifted gate is even better. less abuse on the trailer and the gate will seal better. also will reduce loads getting stuck. Air ride or spring is fine... normal pros and cons with them. electric tarps and crank tarp systems seam to be a bigger PITA trying to keep them working, let a branch tear off the pullys and electrical wires and you will see why. a simple pull tarp with spring return arms are cheep and easy to work and wont need expencive parts when the tree bends arms. ask me how I know. Alum trailers are good just for gravel and dirt clay etc... you cant use them for demo unless you want a trailer full of dents and holes. if you want a trailer to go to WORK with steel is what you want.

drain that box and see if rusty water comes out... sounds like water is under that oil and thats why it seams over filled with oil ?. Drain and refill to the top of the plug hole and your good to go.

if the oil press jumps from 30 at idle to 45+ I would say its good to go (still tight). that lamp may be hooked into a low water sencer? oil leaks are just about as common as any truck of its era. exhaust leaks seamed common on the V8s I have been around. a stock v8 does feel a little laggy and most turned to 1900. a few tweaks and it will run better but burn a bigger hole in your wallet. front axel beam should not have to be changed unless it was speced light. .74 over 8LL will give you around 69MPH at 1900RPM a 1.00(direct drive) 8LL will be 51MPH. My bet is its a .74 overdrive trans. the 440 V8 only had around 1600# of torque (stock. turned up 1800-1900# could be had. the stock aussi 600 v8s had around 2050#. we turned one up to 2050 RPM and I think it pulled better.

let me try R = R model 7 = GVWR (not sure if this is true on all 700 models) 22 = Engine model (not sure what the engine code for a 22 is?) R = Right hand drive S = six wheel chassie 1130 = build number for the model

a quicl search of AL laws looks as if your best bet would be to run a Quad axel dump... are they common in your aera?? http://www.dot.state.al.us/NR/rdonlyres/A795ACFA-5ED3-4C13-9606-289FE4AF3FE5/0/Title32Chapter9.pdf

that would depend on the laws of your state. Some stats will allow 72,380 on a quad axel others will require a 5 axel tractor trailer with a short 22' end dump. or you may be able to haul 80,000 with a 38+ foot trailer but then you will be limited on the roads you can travel with 80,000. I can go on and on but first let us know what state your in and we can go from there....

I have a pump guy in Il that turned up / calabrated some of our pulling trucks for $300-400 this is a no parts involved deal. most of it is his time and use of his pump stand. I think $800-$1000 would be the avg standard rebuild of a pump. never had a pump rebuilt so cant be for sure. Price will also depend if its a Robert Bosch or American Boasch pump. one seams to have cheaper parts? FJH will know more than I on the costs involved....fyi be glad its not a V8 Pump. they cost as much as a E6 300Hp motor...seriously!

I think you can safely turn a single frame tractor into a 6 wheel dump if you dont cut the frame and stretch it. I have seen alot of cracked single frames on 6 wheel dumps. put a weld in the rails and it will happen even quicker. Now with that said your the owner/driver and can limit what the truck will do. 6 wheelers tend to get the crap beat out of them. work a day on site and you will likly be over loaded all day long. Expect some operators to over load you all day...dirt falling off the sides! thats very hard on a single frame so dont expect it to last as long as a double frame spring ride can. I drove some R model dumps on a golf corse sites with 44k camelback rears that after years of abuse felt like Cadillac built the rear suspension. these trucks would do front wheel stands going up the grades to the dump aera, 1st gear only to the top, easy on the throttle, dont stop.and hopegully the guy in front of you makes it to the top safely. we had some jobs that you had to back up the hills and the drive tires would start to slip! you hear that moan from the gear box that makes you wonder if your feet are safe on the floor boards LOL...not good. If you have air ride will the air bags hold up to these kind of over loads? will it have the traction and articulation for the jobs? hopefully you wont see that severe of abuse but it happens. I took my 77' RS700L and put it into lowboy and dump truck use. It was set up for over the road and weighed in at 15,500 from the factory, now its at 16,000 with the wet kit, kinda light for a R model tractor as many eastern R models were around the 17,100 mark when set up for on/off road dump use. regardless it does the jobs good with the camelback but dont think it would be great for a 6 wheel dump. the single frame is not that thick, Drive shafts are sized for on road use and has 24.5 tires. Its your truck and you know its limitations. Only you know what you will need to get the jobs done.

sounds good to me...what did she say?

on the US models they have a door tag on the drivers door and stamped vin number on the RH frame rails.

Check the return spring and throttle lever first.. if thats ok then it sounds like the pump or gov is getting worn out. time for a check up! some have claimed they may run away if it gets worn out real bad...

you likely can fit a straight 4" stacks between the cab and camper body and put a muffler under the truck. looks like the hardest part will be getting a 90 deg bend at the cab corner. that engine is not to loud with straight stacks so a mini muffler should do the trick. just make sure the exit its well above the cab or your truck will be black on the top sides.

nice looking camper. The RS and RL R models are some of the finest they ever built. IMO all that truck needs is a diffrent color but thats just me.... Hope you have fun with it,

4 BOLTS UP TOP, 2 BOLTS ON THE BOTTOM, AND I THINK THERE ARE 2 BOLTS EACH SIDE NEAR THE HOOD LATCH. I DONT THINK THE HEAD LIGHT PANELS NEED TO COME OFF TO REMOVE IT....

I keep my tractor tandems at about 1/4 turn from tight and my trailer tandems at 1/2 turn from tight. the empty dump trailer always likes to lock up on a fast stop. Some trucks I drove you could set all axels the same and not worry. every truck is diffrent

Everyone has their own opinions on correct brake adjustments..but this is what I do. Build up air press to 120 psi.turn off truck, chock tires,release brakes, adjust the tractor tandems slacks so that they force the shoe to contact the drums. now back of 1/4 turn. trailer.... adjust the trailer tandem slacks so that they force the shoe to contact the drums. now back of 1/4-1/2 turn. if any wheel tends to lock up during normal braking. back that one off another 1/4 turn. to check if they are properly adjusted have someone measer the push rod travel when the brake is applied.(parking brake released/full air press in tanks) it should not travel more than 2" on a 20-20 or 30-30 chamber.

If I recall its on the driver side of the box? I think the back up alarm and light work off the same switch.. I dont have either on my trucks but have hooked up one years ago on a 6 speed. Its all done from the outside of the gear box....

check filters and lines for issues first. sounds like it has lost fuel somehow because if it had the same fuel flow as before but at a low 15psi your EGTs would likly be over 1000+. 23-26psi is normal boost. I get a solid 5mpg with the pump cranked up boosting 25psi. it will spike to 28 sometimes when the weather is right. is the android valve working correctly? some times it can restrict fuel if its not operating as it should.

great vid thanks for sharing. I model trains in Ho scale and love old macks... what a great combo to see from back in the day...

Someone send this to Mack HQ or the local news paper!! bravo!

I consider my self good at driving and better than most backing up. But the best guy I have seen backing up was this old guy named Don. he was in his late 50s and always a live wire. to much caffine? drugs? I dont know. He was one of the drivers that helped me get my licence and while teaching me the correct way to drive 99% of the time, once a week he had to show me some new "trick". He drove a 87 mack with a air shift 7 speed. would always back up in 4th and could get that 22' end dump trailer in any spot in his first try. (2nd try if he saw a hot chick walking across the street) Seen him do front wheel stands at a stop light. drive thru any soft muddy wet ground and make it look like he was on dry pavement. dump a load in spots you would think he should have gone over... talk his way out of a ticket. have 10k more of a load in his trailer but walk you from every stop light... you name it he could out do you. Not a guy anyone would really want in your truck but he was good at what he did and a pro at backing. And even with all the abuse he put the trucks thru he never tore stuff up like the others did..always wondered how he did it LOL!!!!.

Good job 53' trailers back easy but the blind spots can be a PITA. and yes a backing a long tractor with a short trailer is no fun ....even when your good LOL!!!

2 car batts will start it right up if it not to cold out and the engine does not need more than a 1-2 min of cranking to get it going. most of these old diesel will fire right up if the fuel system is still primed. most late 70s macks I have been around were 12V start so you can just use 2 standard batts. however it could be a 24V start system but you will just have to check. look at the volt meter sometimes it gives it away if its 12 or 24V system. post some more pics and welcome to the club....

let me know because Kanzler intrested in them....I just put them in their shop to store them today.... These would be good for spare tires or for a truck that does not see alot of miles. they came off the race hauler at work. I think its a full matched set that only saw highway miles. Call me tomorrow if you want more info....