gearhead204

I'm afraid its not a mood, I'm afraid its as good as it gets. With this on our shores our enemies will never have to fire a shot, I think our best terror plot is just now unfolding, but no one is calling it what it is.

just strange nuts in California and some strange fruit too!

the problem is there babbling idiots are smarter than us! They have never put in 40 hours by Wednesday morning, never helped any one other than themselves ( cuz if they did they would still be wanting praise) they sit around dreaming of the perfect world where they get everything for nothing or get us dumb working types to pay for it through taxes and they get the benefit, so since they have nothing better to do they screw, and make more of these idiots and since we have been busy working they now out number us. So you see our inability to f@%k around at work now has us out numbered!

check for a open ground I'm guessing one got missed on reassembly

when did this problem start? was it after a clutch replacement? did any thing else happen eng. trans. or with the rears? are you having problems keeping other components tight? does the driver complain of vibrations at certain road speed or given engine speeds?

check e-bay also for used or reman pumps

Colin: there is basically a cam shaft inside the pump it could of had a lobe go flat or the barrel and plunger are too scored to build sufficient opening pressure to fire the injector

ok have you tried pulling the kill cable then cranking ? the lever could be a ass backward lever. just a thought

by the time they got out west they were called puddle jumpers

yes remachine all mating areas that were loose and then blue loc tight the bolts when reinstalled. my college instructor built a tool to bolt to the flywheel and would recut the bell hsg. using the starter. for aluminum bells. it was quite simple apiece of 1x6flat bar that would reach across the flywheel plus 3in. then drill two holes to line up at say the 12 and 6 o clock positions of the clutch bolt mounting holes then drill and tap for 3/4 nf bolts then drill the 3/4 nf bolts to accept 3/8 bolts. the large bolts would set the height or stand off for the bell hsg. the small bolts would attach It to the fly wheel then drill and tap two holes on either side of the one mounting bolt that is on the off set end of the tool and install two bolts tighten evenly (this is to remove chatter from the tool) then take a piece of tool stock 1/4 or 3/8 sq. and sharpen a side then weld to a drilled and tapped piece of flatbar 1/4 thick then locate that onto the 1x6 bar ,drill holes and secure with 3/8 cap screws then bar eng. over until high points are found then in .010 increments crank the eng. over until bell housing surface "cleans". this has now trued the bell hsg.to the clutch face and should remove 2nd. spline clutch wear problem from imput shafts and allow trans to be securely attatched to the eng. NOTE YOU WILL STILL NEED TO REFACE THE TRANS, ADAPTOR.

naw we just need to turn the picture upside down! your looking at it all wrong LOL

thanks for all the reply's I was just curious, as to why they were building both models, I guess I was driving a heavy weight valueliner ( just not the aussie heavy weight)

some one still had to explain how a rough terrain crane got high centered and hit by a train. Damn expensive day!

that thing is COOL!!! hell i'd trade a 4 wheeler for that lol

chip does it have a hand primmer in the fuel system? also what engine are we working with, in what truck. does the transfer pump "pump" it must work in order for the injection pump to work.

let me know how you fixed it I haven't been able to use it for 8 months.

Did the guys get taken out for a blackened tuna sammich?

I still want to see that thing in person be sure to post if its ever in wa. or northern or. DO you know if all Aussie valueliners were setback front axles? or could you get them either way?

shut truck off and shift into problem gear then get under the truck and listen for a air leak also check the trans. vent for escaping air. it sounds like to me the control air pressure is being lost and thus the trans falls out of gear in the rear section.

I thought aluminum components on a Mack were the mirrors, fuel tanks batt.box lids and trans. cases! There were other options?

the first Mack that I drove for any length of time was a 86 valueliner e-6 350 12 sp. 3 axle dump we also had 2-87 rd 688's 2-88 rd 688's a 88 e-9 500 superliner any ways my question was where did the valueliner fit in I remember it had a different hood and 1/4 fenders with saddle mounted fuel tanks but other than that was the same as the rd's. just trying to figure out why they built the truck when it wasn't mechanically different from the rd. series

finally one in the backyard so to speak under 200 away and yes I would love to have that flat bed, any one looking for a cruseliner in neon green?

the jake on an e-7 is better as far as I remember, nether one is great compared to a cummins.

DING...DING...DING Allen is our winner!

yep just jump the fence at the local truck wreckers and "trade" them solenoids just look for the one with the daylight crankshaft they will never find out that the sol. was bad. and yes I have used e-6 ones on the e-9 there the same.