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I agree with what yo see there you need to get that out of there to get the clutch set right!

It is really hard to find the offending rod until the chunks are bigger ! Usually happens on the bottom of the bushing though! you need to bring each piston to the bottom and look real close!

Wrist pin bushings come out in chunks like that rarely any fuzz keep a close ear on that! If you find more next oil change pull the pan and start looking just sayin! Hopefully it makes it to the change with out a failure!

Bummer man ! We had a vax program here I and my wife chose to both be vaxed ! It hits some people hard some not some not at all ! Its a real smart bug! You can pack it a round and hand it off to the next person with out knowing it! Have a niece that got it march 2021 still struggling with after affects!

Wrist pin bushing is the most common failure ! Specially If you got the engine turned up !The shape is very similar to wrist pin! to big for turbo peices ! compressors is ball bearing! Just sayin!

Possible Joe !Original post states new brakes ! Did this problem start at that point???? That slack in my mind is not keeping up on the adjustment That said ! I'll bet the original slacks were Meritor with the button on them! The adjustment pin setting on the style of pushrod that is shown there is for the Meritor style NOT Gunite ! Two different clevises! hence not adjusting properly! you can't mix auto slack styles with the welded clevis! The button style should always be used!

So was There any work done just prior to the start of this situation A brake job? The ware on the push rod indicates that the( Brake can )may be mounted a little off in the mount in my mind! I notice the brake is close to needing adjusted! I HATE them gunite slacks! That said its over 90 cause it needs adjusting in my mind that is not the issue here just me! The slack should be keeping up on the set! my observation its not! How ever If the shoes were change and they used Recon shoe I have seen the cut outs where the roller sits worn so bad they tend to roll up the ramp so to speak on the cam side and cause the brake to lock up! I also ,when we were using this recon junk I would inspect the shoes I was handed And Reject them if I didn't like what I saw I told them I would mount this shit on a customer truck! I'm not saying this is the case here just stating an experience I have Even seen some new shoes the cam side roller cut out is NOT cut deep enough and can do the roll up thing after a short while of operation! you need to pay attention to what you are handed! I always look for at least 1/3 depth of the roll seat! just an observation!

He was talking tractor brakes and showed a trailer axle I was confused by this, first were working on a tractor then a trailer Which is it! Any way ! Leave no stone un turned at this point !!! The Parts canon has already fired! might just as well load a new brake pot in it and shoot too new clevise and all ! also check the cam for freeness while your there! I'm tapped out don't know what else to suggest! The group here has Touched on almost every scenario !

Just something to try ! If the wheel has spring brakes try caging the offending wheel ! just thinking a little out side the box here! an intermittent protrusion of the spring pot may cause issues as well specially with auto slacks! If the wheel has no spring brake disregard this comment!! 😅

un plug where there go in to the head and try the brake you will find out in short order!

Put a pillow in the air cleaner that would create some smoke for ya!

Not in your position my friend ! I don’t have a website to monitor! No do I have Facebook or any other whineomedia concepts I only have BMT to keep tabs on!

Finally after almost A year My BMT notification's are coming to the the in box! I have been fighting with this for months !So Barry what ever you did to the system there May have fixed the issue unless The browser fixed itself !I have been not spamming the stuff for months Finally something happened ! Trouble is some stuff is going to spam now that had been ok before Really pisses me off when they keep changing shit! Its like Volvo Updating shit all the time if IT aint Broke DONT Fix it!How does stuff become spam after being OK for years! Anyone know the answer!??

yup So the issue with the air fix is if the the diaphragm is burst inside you won't Know! To check the diaphragm simply suck or blow on the hose if it won't hold a vacuum or you can blow thru it the diaphragm is toast! in evet the diaphragm still holds air , If you need to just take the edge off the sluggishness remove the two screw cap at the rear and turn the screw in 1/4 turn at a time! NOTE !This will still not repair the sluggishness if the diaphragm has a hole in it! proper fix is to replace the diaphragm! Just sayin!

Be careful! Google turn up 5.9 Cummins the same pump be advised that a candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long! It’s a little harder to do on tha Mack as the screws are directly behind and under the manifold.suggest ten thousandths increments. Don’t get carried away!one screw is tamper proof may cause issues!

You could apply 30 psi regulated air to it ! You can also take the small cap off the end two screws under that is the start position screw screw it in!

Duno Id try what Joey mentioned there! also with the wheel jacked up set the slack till shoes just touch and rotate the wheel by hand and see of there is a tight spot indicating an out of round drum! Or another scenario loos wheel bearings ! I have seen this issue with out the seal leaking!

You know Me If I get A chance To BASH EM I do how ever ! unfortunately the day time running light idea is a law here Paul and I agree with having it unfortunately on gray gloomy days it really helps to pick out them darker color vehicles! That Said As much As I would like to blame the Volvo Trashers on this It aint there Fault!😂 So my jab here would be When they work ! When the Anthem was introduced the dollarstore headlight were Garbage they would fail in 2 weeks of delivery of the truck! Think they got that fixed now however ! JAB of the Day!

Any codes?

You need to go to the dealer or someone with the Mack software and have them set the idle and then go into the program and turn off set idle with dash switches! Have seen this happen several times!

Good to hear!😇

I suspect the relay picture one is the culprit! picture two is the start relay! picture two looks to be the accessory relay ! That one controls everything for the dash the heater fan etc ! There are two different versions of that cole hearsay relay Constant duty and periotic duty! Be sure you have the right solenoid ! Check for power on both sides should be power one side on the big wires and power on both when the key is turned on! also the small terminals should be power to one and ground to the other! Check power on the one side and Make sure you got ground on the other!

No

So I have a thought you can try! Drain the air tanks at the end of the day and see if you still have pressure in the morning! also these had issues either surge tanks cracking not sure if an over heat could be caused by this however it’s an honourable mention! It sounds like a combustion in coolant issue to me I’m not a fan of the combustion test cocktails they are hit and miss!

Is it throwing up codes on the dash? The wiring on the injectors can deteriorate also the pins on the connections can be faulty!