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So is there smoke accompanying this miss? Possible physical problem valve issue? Engine brake slave stuck? bent push tube!?

Well My opinion! I might get flamed for this however ! Don't use a Stemco seal for starters ! Go get a CR Or National Even the Meritor seals are decent! My experiance is that for the most part if the seal is leaking and there is nothing wrong with a bearing or preload on a bearing ITs usually a stemco seal on that wheel Not always but For the most part! I used to be a Stemco believer for Years But not now! the simplicity is great how ever longevity not so much! also you should be equipped with ALL the proper drive in tools for the wear rings and the seal itself! punches and drifts don't work well!

Yup I'm in the process of repairing the main part of the 4/1 cutting edge they left it un repaired for quite awhile so the clay and dirt was packed solid between the frame work and the work edge! had to air hammer it out and pressure wash inside before I get started on the repair some one did try to bandaid it at one point! might take a couple of days to finish it up got to go get a another spool of wire for the welder And I am not planning on knocking my self out getting it done And I don't know the duty cycle on the miller Haven't had it long enough to know its capability's ! It's raining here today so nice day to be inside! 😁

So in picture two you see the extra pin hole toward the back? Is this to change the angle of the bucket or is it for something else?

Extendahoe yup! Ya I will post some stuff I got a few questions also! Has an extra hole where the buckets attach wondering what it’s for! A clean up and digging bucket the 4-1 needs some cutting edge on the main frame portion needs some repair got me a bit of a plan for that! Nothing the 211 won’t take care of😅

Power leash was a bit of a different animal Sure improved the braking! How ever need to help this guys situation I think you answered his question! all good !

V#3 Did you change to solid tubes or stick with the spring load tubes ? think this would help this guy with his decision !

That said pull the back plug let it drain till it stops flowing That is the correct level! If its still leaking after that you may have a crack in the diff housing specially if it has a torque rod to the frame from the back!

Kinda think you could use the spring loaded tubes on the steel rollers as is! just not the other way around just my thought on it! I think the spring tubes were implemented to eliminate any cracking the ceramic rollers that may occur during high speed operation and engine braking! In the early days they attributed most flat lifter failures to the engine brake I believe! When the steel rollers failed it was a hard surfacing issue on the cam or roller!

Sorry no one has nibbled on this ! I have never run into this situation so do want to steer you wrong! Someone may have an answer at so point keep checking back!

Check the yoke bolt for tightness! And yes you can remove the rear lid and check the range bolt as well however it is a sign the range pack is failing!

Check the rear yoke bolt first this is thirst indication of range pack failure! If the bolt is loose lock tight and tighten it! If not post back it’s a bit pricey to repair!

What year? ETECK?

So I got to go and operate the machine a bit last nite it operates ok ! I observed that the boom lift function didn't seem to have the power of the rest of the functions other wise it seemed to be good! The boom cyl has a leak at the mount end I presume it has a crack in it it apears that they tried to weld it but it still leaks a tad! I may pull it off when I get it home and see if I can weld it up properly as its almost impossible to weld stuff in place with oil oozing from it ! So will keep you guys updated if your interested ! Real stoked about geting it home Unfortunately it looks like I will be replacing a fan belt and maybe a tensioner in a bit a bit of a dogs breakfast to change However! Is what it is! Better than doing track rollers and broken track springs on a JD! Just sayin! 😅

yup 16 candles buddy!

At first you had to do a read and save!They simplified it later you just click on a link!now they simply hide everything so you have to buy a new truck 😀

When you buy a reman ecu the truck vin is wiped clean until you install / download it! There is base hp 250 in there but that’s it! It then teams up with the vecu to finish the match! Is the way I understand it! agian not a guru on this electronic magic stuff!

Preempted to three in Canada! PMT!😅

I replaced sensor.also has code for egr differential pressure Did you clean out the venturie tube when you replaced the Sensor? if the ecu sees low egr flow it will open the EGR valve more and more and the boost will never build correctly also you may have a sticky EGR valve OR turbo! due to, to much soot from the diff sensor issue ! Just an observation!

For one thing the program will not let you program a truck with miss matched ECU/ VECU The progam compares the two before it will flash the data I beleive! I am no guru on this by any means but I know we tried reflashing donor ECUs It don't work!

So my Guess ! he hasn’t worked on Mack long then! Rest assured this is the likely source ! The evidence was in your hand! The test you tried proved it! 🤨

K

Question Is the truck standard or auto?

There Are several guys here with that knowledge hang out for a bit Mackpro or someone should chime in!