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My thought is they want to leave the girlie trucks to the Volvo end ! How ever Letting the Volvo end keep the big liter engine and not building a proper truck to pull weight on the Mack end is criminal !They needed to have left the work truck line up to the Mack end! dumped the Volvo Construction end! How ever it don't matter its all garbage anyway ! All vehicles these days whether it be road or off road has an extremely limited life span by design! including equipment talk about saving the environment is just lip service and the general public is blind to it!

Great Minds! 😁

Yup Bud ! Even Volvo Gets better with experience! At least for the most part they are willing to evolve! As long as it don't cost them to much! Imagine if they fixed the injector cup issue they could call the engine bullet proof! How ever they wouldn't be able to sell any parts because nothing would fail! as it is stuff runs long enough to get past the warranty period!😁 By this time your trapped! Buy a new truck or by overpriced parts your choice! 😡

Yup buddy! I like them but they a a quite recent interduction to the line! And can't comment on there longevity ! Experience ! I comment on the two piece from experience in my area of the country ! And a former believer!

Yup I agree Paul Some what! That said ! if this are the case Its because you need the proper tools ! I the wear ring drivers are essential in my mind! How ever I still stand by my convictions and promote the other styles of seals Stemco does make the seals with the integral Wiper ring I think they may work ok I haven't enough experience with them to give them the nod ! And yep the breathers There is usually a reason for a failure !

Yup Joe we used to save the known good ECUs for that purpose from wrecks and such we have several there sill I believe ! Its better than pulling the trigger on the parts canon with out really knowing! ECUs aren't cheap!

So Even with all the right tools the Stemco seals do not stand the test of time these days! The simple design is great how ever ! With todays Q design brakes A guy can't just whip a drum off and change out shoes with out changing the seal! Even with the grit guard concept when you disturb the dust and crap when changing shoes you inevitably get grime in the seal and end up doing the job twice ! This is my main reasoning of not promoting the use of them! I have seen alot of almost new shoes ruined by just doing the shoes and not the seal specially on trailers ! Just my opinion ! I realize that we are working with a steer axle in this instance and it is not apples to apples! This still applies to drive axles ! again my opinion ! If you got an axle you pull the drum and find you have a stemco seal you may just as well pull the hub and do the seal as well! AS if you don't you will be doing that same job two - six months down the road with a bigger mess to clean up! If that wheel has a CR Or just about any one of the afore mentioned seals you can safely for the most part be fairly confident you will make the next brake job ! Just an observation! Also I worked with a guy that worked in a cold climate 30 below for six months of the year ! He claimed that the CR / national type seals did not work well in these conditions! In this instance there is a place for a Stemco ! He swore by stemco till he moved to this region of the country and started seeing what I've be talking about! just Sayin!

So is there smoke accompanying this miss? Possible physical problem valve issue? Engine brake slave stuck? bent push tube!?

Well My opinion! I might get flamed for this however ! Don't use a Stemco seal for starters ! Go get a CR Or National Even the Meritor seals are decent! My experiance is that for the most part if the seal is leaking and there is nothing wrong with a bearing or preload on a bearing ITs usually a stemco seal on that wheel Not always but For the most part! I used to be a Stemco believer for Years But not now! the simplicity is great how ever longevity not so much! also you should be equipped with ALL the proper drive in tools for the wear rings and the seal itself! punches and drifts don't work well!

Yup I'm in the process of repairing the main part of the 4/1 cutting edge they left it un repaired for quite awhile so the clay and dirt was packed solid between the frame work and the work edge! had to air hammer it out and pressure wash inside before I get started on the repair some one did try to bandaid it at one point! might take a couple of days to finish it up got to go get a another spool of wire for the welder And I am not planning on knocking my self out getting it done And I don't know the duty cycle on the miller Haven't had it long enough to know its capability's ! It's raining here today so nice day to be inside! 😁

So in picture two you see the extra pin hole toward the back? Is this to change the angle of the bucket or is it for something else?

Extendahoe yup! Ya I will post some stuff I got a few questions also! Has an extra hole where the buckets attach wondering what it’s for! A clean up and digging bucket the 4-1 needs some cutting edge on the main frame portion needs some repair got me a bit of a plan for that! Nothing the 211 won’t take care of😅

Power leash was a bit of a different animal Sure improved the braking! How ever need to help this guys situation I think you answered his question! all good !

V#3 Did you change to solid tubes or stick with the spring load tubes ? think this would help this guy with his decision !

That said pull the back plug let it drain till it stops flowing That is the correct level! If its still leaking after that you may have a crack in the diff housing specially if it has a torque rod to the frame from the back!

Kinda think you could use the spring loaded tubes on the steel rollers as is! just not the other way around just my thought on it! I think the spring tubes were implemented to eliminate any cracking the ceramic rollers that may occur during high speed operation and engine braking! In the early days they attributed most flat lifter failures to the engine brake I believe! When the steel rollers failed it was a hard surfacing issue on the cam or roller!

Sorry no one has nibbled on this ! I have never run into this situation so do want to steer you wrong! Someone may have an answer at so point keep checking back!

Check the yoke bolt for tightness! And yes you can remove the rear lid and check the range bolt as well however it is a sign the range pack is failing!

Check the rear yoke bolt first this is thirst indication of range pack failure! If the bolt is loose lock tight and tighten it! If not post back it’s a bit pricey to repair!

What year? ETECK?

So I got to go and operate the machine a bit last nite it operates ok ! I observed that the boom lift function didn't seem to have the power of the rest of the functions other wise it seemed to be good! The boom cyl has a leak at the mount end I presume it has a crack in it it apears that they tried to weld it but it still leaks a tad! I may pull it off when I get it home and see if I can weld it up properly as its almost impossible to weld stuff in place with oil oozing from it ! So will keep you guys updated if your interested ! Real stoked about geting it home Unfortunately it looks like I will be replacing a fan belt and maybe a tensioner in a bit a bit of a dogs breakfast to change However! Is what it is! Better than doing track rollers and broken track springs on a JD! Just sayin! 😅

yup 16 candles buddy!

At first you had to do a read and save!They simplified it later you just click on a link!now they simply hide everything so you have to buy a new truck 😀

When you buy a reman ecu the truck vin is wiped clean until you install / download it! There is base hp 250 in there but that’s it! It then teams up with the vecu to finish the match! Is the way I understand it! agian not a guru on this electronic magic stuff!