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Check your coolant level

Was the oil pedestal removed there's several different gaskets for diffrent applications?was the oil cooler cleaned properly from the first engine failure?

Is there any thing in the vehicle display mileage ect if not the ecu maybe haywire

Yup what's old is new again just like the start button.

And low oil preasure high temp as intermitant as yours is it's Likley low coolant as macpro mentioned

Well then if etemps are low and your positive the throttle is going to full on and the stop full off you got good fuel preasure give the pump a tweak.

The cost of repair is whats wrong is the cost of repair is out to lunch Mack /volvo don't want you to fix things just by new stuff! An eaton is half the cost of the mack trans to overhaul parts Are half the cost of mack parts ! In some defence kw freightliner or pete are no better! Anything dealer specific bend over!

Yup the injectors likly took out the dpf

In my opinion ya need to get hooked up ad do a compression test ( cyl balance ) etc as much as you would like to avoid the shop you need th bite the bullet and do it could still be a wiring harness or a bad valve not unheard of, and

If the eup swap did not move to the other cyl you either have an injector issue OR a bad valve if its a bad valve you will have blu white smoke Pull the injector have it tested! your smoke color sounds injectorish! You can also swap the injectors hole to hole to prove it out!

Yup just hollow out the packer take all of it wire and both ecu s

Just Finished a V8 build in January We used PAI kit Very complete kit Half the price of the mack stuff and twice the warranty!

There intent is to make the old mack stuff unreachable buy pricing it out to lunch make it go away ! The dealer is only part to blame their pricing to the dealer is ridiculous as well the dealer is just passing the gouge on! Look else where! Best aftermarket mack parts is PAI in my opinion! excellent pricing compared to the volvo criminals Even for MP and volvo trash parts. AND better warranty!

Yup me too however ,this being an intermittent miss makes me doubt ! vthings happen thou

Range fork loose or broken! Broken axle broken thru shaft

Yup 90s anything

your tool from the inlet sounds like it worked fine a 4 inch piece of 3- 4 inch exhaust pipe ( depending on your cooler) caped off and drilled and taped for 1/4 inch pipe thread and a pressure reg set to 40 psi will do the trick Good known gauge! you can also make the cap not drill it and back feed from where the puff limiter is installed ! once you ares sure its tight then we can talk twisting the dogs tale some more! Just some ideas to giter done!

For logging, you'll likely be looking for a CV713 AI460. Very sluggish power wise. Durable yes, powerful not so much!

That turbo should be putting out in excess of what you need to achieve good boost In my opinion ya need to leak check the whole system to the boost your expecting to run , We have an adapter to put into the After cooler on the turbo side and pressure up the whole system heads and all ya need to bar the engine around a bit to get the valves in the right spot to pressure it up or pull the rockers to close the valves .but its the ultimate way to ensure you have no leaks! Stock coolers tend to crack on the hot side top front! There has been instances where boost can be dumped out the Air drier Depending on how you gave the inlet of the compressor plumbed!! This can happen on the v8 as well but you would likely hear it unless your running straight pipes!

Do you have a pyro plumbed in what temps are you seeing?

It is a large solenoid beside the wiper motor that powers the cab accessories including the computers. Did you replace this sol???? Key to this is next time it happens check to see if the heater is blowing if the heater motor is not working the relay acc solenoid under the dash is toast its under the ash tray to of dash!

Yup how far off the floor does the clutch brake operate ? The clutch brake should be adjusted with the arm on the side of the trans or with the cable yoke It should operate RIGHT ON the floor 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch! Once that is established you need to have 1/2 gap between the throw out bearing and the brake! Free pedal up in the cab is only a rough guess ! Anywhere from 1- 2 inches! Adjusted on the clutch face 5/8 adjuster ! If its a auto adjust you are on your own! they are junk

Wow Im surprised you not having issues with that volume of air going thru that filter I've seen that rubber elbow collapse on the single under hood style with a moderately cranked engine 33 psi boost stock turbo! how ever that may have been a washed filter not great for use with a high volume situation ! The timing idea is a possible cause however the engine has been timed from 17 to 24 for different years and horse power ratings.I have had them not run correctly timed to the number stamped on the pump ! IE: at 17 stamped on the pump very retarded smokey bump it to 19 or 22 OK .! In reply to the original poster, as mentioned you might bump it beyond the pump setting and see if it steps up the game a bit!

Check for boost leaks! are running dual airccleaners? doubt the under hood single will handle the air you need to have well

Yup what he said change it