theakerstwo

I dont think its funny.

The DD in the photos has dad what is called piston debonding. The top of the piston is molded to the trunk part that holds the shirt on. I have seen it many times. One year and i cant remenber when DD had a lot of bad pistons like that. Many times a peice of piston get between the rod and block and the block is pushed out. Arrow trucking here who buy maybe 250 trucks a year and one year almost all of them had problems like that.They built their own wrecker to recover them so they would be repaired here at home. We replace about 70 engines complete and repair more than that under warranty.Some times a dealer some were would pull the valve cover on the road to find the problem and then close the hood for return home. They were many at one time in our yard waiting for their turn to come in the shop. One day i was giving a ticket and told to get it in and check it out. I towed it in with the fork lift and first then i found was V/C was off so i knew pan needed pulled next. I drained the pan and nothen was in the pan so i jack it up and removed the last bolt in the pan a not come down with the pan. I got a hammer and made it come down and i was under the pan. When it came down it almost mash my stuff out.I did not know but the rain water had drained in alround the back of the hood and filled the pan. Being this was in the winter and it was out side it was all ice in the oil pan.

Which ever model you end up using count the teeth on the old starter and make sure the one you reinstall is same count teeth.

I have alot of questions but dont know were to start.

Dont worry about the spining of the shaft. It will spin when its ready to. One thing you need to check is full throdle. Make sure your gas pedal is massing your lever all the way.That is witrh engine dead, not running.

I saw last year a line that had stopped up for some reason.I give him a old line being it was on sunday and it fix his problem.I have a old 673 line and injector that i can connect to the pump and crank over to se if the pump is putting out. You may look at the old injectors and make sure that tghe sealing ashers came out with the old injectors.Two sealing washers on one injector may be a problem

I believe this.

The company i work for brought out a new machine and used it 8 days before a oil line broke and it started a fire. No fire ex on machine so it burnt to the ground.That was last summer.

Your right

I like that

Sounds like a road i got on over there around Cherokee NC one day.

If you are needing a pump i have one with the advance that may be what you need.

This is very true.

We need snow or rain cause its still too dry.

This is a liberal coutry now dont you know. This is what so many people voted for soexspect any thing from now on.

If you will get in tough with Rob he has a manual he may look at the specs for you.

The giesel was a engine built v6 or v8 cummins sold to white motor co back in the late 60s. They modifide it to burn gas for mid range trucks.I have worked on a few of them before gas burners when by the way side.

The end673T had 18 9/16 head bolts. The end T673 had 20 5/8 studs and oil cooler nozzles for the piston cooling. The maxidyn was same way but had a fire ring on top of liner and differnt governor on the sam fuel pump.And it was painted gold.

When i think about it more i worked for mack 1965,66,67,68 and the B model was still in production when i started there and i remenber seein a ENDT 673b or c in them but did not ever remenber seeing a maxidyn in the B so the thermodyne may have came out a year eary than the maxidyl witch would be 65 for the thermodyn and 66 for the maxidyn.The best i remnebr.

Yes it was the 225 HP just a fuel setting and it would be a 250 HP

The 250 came out same time as the 237 and that would be in late 65 or 66.Before the 250 the turbo engine was a 205 and did not have the 20 bolt head or the oil cooled pistons. I was working at the mack dealer then.I could be wrong cause that was long time ago.

For you that want to keep up on were America is tune in on the jimmy Swagard show and wait for Francis and freinds come on. This is more enlighten to me and also they have some bible to back it up with.This country has been sold out by both side but many the liberal have cashed in on us and will not let nothen get in there way to get to suck up some more to obama.

Let me tell you how to remove them with out heating the axle beam and i have did many this way.With a torch cut the thrust brg out from under the axle beam were it set on top of the spindle. Then with it out of the way cut the king pin and cut about 1/2" out of it. Then lift the spindle up and cut the king pin above the axle beam under the spindle. Now the spindle is out of the way.Let it cool and then grind off smooth the top of the king pin. Alot of the times the pin will fall out with a small hammer. If not i have some 1 ' cold roll that i weld about 6" on top of the king pin and then with a jack under the axle beam supporting some weight use a big hammer on top of the cold roll. It will come out and you have not put much heat in the axle beam. Any time the metal is heated it does nothen good for the metal as for as cracking and falling off going down the road.When your doinbg it for a customer he pays for your time and no reason to stick your neck out and take a chance that will surly come back on you just to save him some time and money.same way with heating tie rod ends and dray links. A drag link arm broke last summer on a freinds truck and he amits he had been heating on it. Two years ago same truck the tie rod arm broke when sitting still and he tells me he has heated on them for always and that is the first he had heard of this. Luck has it when the drag link arm breaks it in most case not being moved and creating more stress by trying to turn wheels sitting still.

That is due to a stupid and greedy truck salesman in most cases.

I remenber back in themid 60s when there was some B models here with the sanie engine in it. END 475