theakerstwo

If you like living then do not try a repair on the front spindle. I know if you ask long enough your going to find some one that has done it but you cant rework a front spindle and expect it not to break off and hurt you.

Like Mike said you don't need that 1" impac. A good !/2 is enough and then about a week check them again. I run them and have never not even the tire shop were kids work have any problem. A word that may help you and that is the inter wheel in and hold with your foot and then install a spacer on that is tight fitting enough to hold the inter wheel up tight against the hub. Then put the outer wheel on. Tighten with 1/2 impac some as you go around tighten some more but if it wobbles you cant keep tighten thinking it will get any better. The tire shop I use will check the wobble but if I am standing there I tell them its ok cause I have never seen one wobble after they get thru putting them on. My son will rotate my tires for me some times and have never had a wobble.

That's right and thanks that's it.

Who was it that built a B model some time back and installed a air cleaner on both sides.And changed to a tilt steer colume with a sleeper and long wheel base? I want to view that photo again and cant remember were it be. glenn

Obama is for ever thing the God is against.But if you dont think there is a God then us Obama.

He is not scare but very concerned about who may walk up behind him with a burning weed in his mouth and hand it to him.

Same way me to and I wish other injectors was as easy to pull as a 4 valve mack.

I like that

Call Rob and he can tell you who all don't got them.

To install the gear you have to heat in a oven and then set it down over the shaft.

Recheck the pump timing. If it off then you have a gear slipping on the cam. The fuel pump drive gear can slip if it not perfect. No key in it so it only a press fit.

205 is not too hot on a long hard pull.

you know he will hear you and if he don't there will be some one call the white house but yes your right he is worrying about every thing that ma6y be American.

The sad part of this its in most cases the trainer is doing the driving cause student is too tired to drive.Were I haul out of there is a driver training camp near by and we have to wait on them at ever corner or stop light so instructor can show all of them the way to turn with out a roll over and there is in most cases three students in each truck. I was at the tire shop one day when they came in and three student was with the instructor waiting on a ok to patch a tire that should have been discarded years back. All three of the drivers quite and walked back some were. One said we only get to drive two hrs per week and they had only drove a few min till they found a flat.This student did not think he was going learn to drive before he was giving a test.

This photo is all the cyber police needs to lock you up.

Google has those manuals I found one and I am sure you can to.Just download it and use a test light. You will find the module some were in the dash and the sensor inputs go to it and a power wire to it as well as a starter mode wire.I have not looked a a manual in years but am sure the sensors only ground the imput circuits and the start mode wire to the module will get power to it only when you are changing it and you will need a ign power to it. They are simple.

He was just trying to feed his family.

With your old one I would say that it was not seeing a oil pressure signal. the moduel that controls the shut down and reset gives it self maybe 10 seconds or more to see oil pressure then it shuts down and is reset by the start mode. So what ever it was not seeing a oil pressure signal. The new one I don't know why. But you will have to get a manual to check it with. There is different ones. One system you have to hold a switch down or in till the oil pressure builds then it is in reset and the other resets from the starter switch.Google for the manual and I think you will find one.

Like Allen said.

That should have a 6 lb cap on it and the thermostat housing if it has one will have three bolts in it going downward and the late models had four bolts going to the back of the engine. the cover that holds the thermostat id part of the neck for the upper rad hose.You can install a thermostat housing on it if you want.The common HP for a end673 is 170 and a p would be 187 hp.That has no oil cooler so it is a early engine.

mike I can be wrong but I think the 18 stud engine has 9/16 and one 3/4 in the corner then the 20 stud 5/8 came last.

For them to do any good first used your imagination and then open both doors when you want to slow down. I only use it to up shift when going slow up hill.

I have one each and have found that one don't do any better than the other and this is on the E6 engines.

I am not running down mack A/C s but have worked on them my self for years and have friends with some of them and most have same problem as I. The grille condenser is so far out in front of the fan and there is no closure around the charge air and rad openings so the air can draw in around the condenser instead of thru it. this has been a well know problem for years with this truck. its ok till you set at idle out in the sun for a few mins and then the head pressure goes up and then the clutch kicks out.

Om my superliner 11 I had three thin hi horse power fans that cost much too much to think about on the back side of my condenser bolted neatly to the condenser. they did a good job but they were rubbing hard on the charge air cooler and no more adjustment to move them out. So I pulled them and installed the red dot on top. It was 94 here to day and I was cool all day.These fans were I think 1 1/2 thin.I had them on a feron fan switch thru a 30 amp relay.