theakerstwo

Do you think it would make the jakes more respounceive? I just installed a E7 in place of my E6 and the jakes don't come on as fast as the E6 with dnytrad.They work good but if you use them for shifting they are too slow. glenn

That is the reason I use Mystick 15W50 in the summer cause jakes do some better.

In the end you to will suffer as bad as the rest if the white house democrats have their way.I am thinking you don't have children so if so you may not have as much at stake as some others.

And also when you pull old injector make sure that you get the old sealing washer out of the head. Some times it will stay in the head.

The intake and water manifold bolt pattern is same from 1953 673 to the E7 engine.

Another thing that keeps old macks around is the rear suspension. The camel back is tough and if you get down were the wheels touch the ground and look at the axle housing to the spring attachment you will see that the spring perch is welded to the housing and is a wide perch covering a large area of the axle housing. That guys is what keeps the axle housing from cracking out the housings like other axle housing do. With the camel back springs you have all four wheels on the ground longer than other suspension.The load is spread out more even to the axle housing thru those spring perches also.The rear ends are double reduction also

Under powered means your not a mack truck driver. To be a mack driver you learn to use what you have and be happy. You learn to take advange of passing on down hills and you learn to start your trip early plus you learn to eat you packed lunch on the road with out stopping and also to you don't stop ever time your buddy wants to cause they have done run ahead of you so they could stop and play around at the truck stop and brag on how shinny their bosses truck is.But at the end of the day you get there and have no trouble sleeping. But old macks is what we had and that is how we got to were we are now.

. First thing is get some one to mash you gas pedal down and you go out and see if the throttle lever is all the way in go fast position. If that is ok then think of something else.Check for boost leaks and you need to do that with air pressure to the air/air cooler and plumbing with 25 psi.You will be checking for leaks and not just some small leaks that you find with soap and water on the hoses.If that is ok then check your fuel pressure and you need around 30 psi under load.Depends on what pump but it may have a aeroild valve diaphragm leaking air and that needs to be checked with 20 psi and see if it hold air pressure.

Let me leave a couple of tips on making a clutch brake last till you clutch is replaced. The hardest thing on a clutch brake is the driver and I mean if you hold the clutch down against the brake any time the wheels are moving while in gear the clutch brake is acting as a brake to stop the the wheels from turning. I work with dump truckers ever day and in the shack were we are dispatched from many have ask me why does this cause a problem and most have never tought of it like that. Another thing is adjusting the gap between the brake and the throwout brg too narrow and the clutch is not completely disengaged and the clutch brake is expected to stop the disc and shaft from turning.When I was still working I and many other mechanics have changed clutchs with the clutch still good and clutch was worn out. So if your haveing the clutch brake disc go bad look at what is causeing it. It should if adjusted properly last till you need a clutch. Another tip some truckers want a two piece disc install when the cltch is installed so later the disc is clutch disc is easy to replace. That is a bad ideal cause the two piece disc does not have a over ride spring in it and it will not last as long as the proper clutch disc.

Page also used a large V belt from one wheel to the other making it a full power tag.

Page was a 40/60 set up and was 4 spring on the ground all the time.

Looking at the B firewall I think the cab is fiberglass also.

A industrial engibne built by cummins is in most cases large HP but not always. It could be simple as a 270 HP .If you will get me the serial # off of the block or data plate I can tell you more about it. The early engine was a 6 digit # stamped in the block in front of the air comp. The later engines was on left side below rear head in block but a 8 digit #. all #s are stamped not cast.

Industrial does not mean power in any way. The industrial cummins in the older engines was same as auto engines with different timing due to what it was being used for. They will have a MVS governor but that can be used for automotive use.

The throttle shaft needs to be only half open and yes more shims added the more the opening is open.But that is for fine tunning like if the 45 buttons gets you 178 psi and the specs is 182 then you can add a shim or two and fine tune to the spec. If your doing one for a cummins under warranty it needs to be on specs for less complains from the management.

What he was talking about on his engine is a engine that is not turboed. Or it did not from factory so it will not have a AFC fuel pump on it meaning there is no tin cover or adjusting screw under there. That screw you are talking about don't set power but only sets the no air setting . Smoke screw if you want to call it. It gives you more or less throttle response. Good advive on the inlet fuel hose.

Your going to get many different ways of setting it so pick what you want to do. First thing is get a liquid filled 300 lb pressure gauge. Connect a 8 ft 3 4 hose to it and tie it to your wiper arm then connect other end to the 1/8 plug on the fuel pump shut down valve.Drive it loaded or load it with the brakes and catch a hill and at 2100 rpm slowly pull it down and watch your max fuel pressure. It will go up and down with your foot or rpm or the load you put the engine at,record that and then go home and pull the rear 4 bolt cover on the pump. Remover the snap ring and be carefull and don't drop the parts that is in there. Pull them out slow and then remove the fuel button or rear name to cunmins parts man is fuel idle plunger. There is a # on it and you will have to try some different sizes to raise your fuel pressure. Raise it by dropping the # on the button. Don't raise the pressure no more than 20 psi. I would go 15 because this engine has no turbo.I would say go 2 sizes lower or 2 # lower than what you take out.The little screw in there is your idle stting screw. The large shims in there are your top rpm shims.If you go more than 20 psi you stand a change of melting pistons.If you post a photo of the pump I can give you some more pointers

At the least you know who is going to be the one who kills you.

I would be for checking the fuel pressure.Check it at the inlet of the pump housing were the line goes in to the injection pump. You will have to make your self a tee and you want about 30 psi. If is too low it will want to die when its running slow.

Some of this help money cant buy.

here is a simple way to get your belts and I used this yesterday on a a/c belt. Get a old belt that is still in good shape with proper width but much too long. Rap it around said pulleys and pull tight and over lap the extrax belts side by side then make you a mark across both of the belts and take to parts store and use the belt# and measure the excess amount too long and tell youe parts saleman to substract that amount from the belt # and its good from there.I have found its best to use the women sales person if one is there. Most of them undertand faster what your after.

Also check and see if the termocoupler for the pyrometer is in the manifold. If so and your pyrometer has went bad it could have drop the thermocoupler inside taking the turbo wheel out with it.I have seen it a few times years ago when they installed in manifold. I want them in the exhaust behind the turbo.

You can do same thing as a commercial shop does to find a leak. Wash and run it and look.

I don't know either but I hurt my neck trying to view that.

Ever 711 I have seen or worked on had a full flow filter.I remember a update to change a non full flow block over to a full flow in the early years.If I remenebr right it was for you to machine the oil galley hole out that goes from the filter mounting pad down to the oil pump some and press a tube in ther blocking the oil pump pressure from the oil galley and forcing it up to the filter and back down to the oil galley. I never saw one done but remember seeing the service letter from the factory.