theakerstwo

Yes i agree. There is some dealer techs here that know and have a way of finding info that the rest of us cant find. We are and all are lucky to have guys that work at a dealer on here because thats the only way the infomation on new products and systems get out of a text book and out and into the feild.

I have never install new sleeve but have done this many times. Clean the bore and old sleeve and use a lock tight and drive it down with a something on top. Never get inside of the sleeve.We had a black looking sealer years ago we used on them as well as a leaking block bore before you install the liner. The sealer was same stuff that bars leak was made of. But a lock tight would be so much better.Easy way to get old coppers out is us a heel bar and insert the taper end down in the injector tip hole in the head and wiggy around and it will stick on the end.I guess years ago the sleeves came out of the head more often than now. Back then you had ever one working on them or trying to.You would run in to some real repairs.Lot of baling wire and nails drove in and bent over.Any one remenber when wire crimp on terminals came out. Before that it was wires tied together and black tape wraped around that. I think a ecm now days could see that they would fail on first sight.

Dont tell me tough times are cause i know. I was walking down the road the other day looking for some fresh road kill and in the ditch there lay a used condom with two hot patches and one laundry tag.

Bad thing about pulling the thermostat is the coolant now will only circulate the block around and around and very little is forced thru the rad.Wate will go thru the lest resistint

Let me add somthing that may help and may not. I have seen alot of oil in the coolant problems thru the years and some was repair or all i guess but if the coolant system ant clean free from oil its going back in a shop some were and that dealer may spend hundreds of dollars looking at something no more than the oil was not clean properly in the first place. Bad thing is no one knows this untill its flushed again and sent out for a few days to prove the work. The worst place i find that the oil hides in the coolant is heater coil and rad. So in the past years i take my time and cover front of rad and turn on heater and run for awhile. If you can keep rad covered it will keep the thermostat open and the soap will flow thru the rad better. In a cold rad oil is not flushed. You can have a engine running at 180 degrees and may not move any coolant thru the rad core.Because the thermostat never opens and omly run thru the block. So i have been creating a small leak some were on the coolant system and keep engine running withe the rad covered and drain coolant and at the same time adding fresh water. When the draining water is clear but still hot then drain down and add antifreeze.Also change coolant filter.

Yes the bell housing will swap from the 14613 to the 12513. The front counter shaft brgs stick out about 1/4" from main case into the bell housing on both. The 9513 is the one that is different.That would be ideal trans for you.Now the RTOF means it has a forward mount stick on the top cover.The top shift cover is also changeable on the two but not with the 95 serials.

It can go in the rear of the block or in the front of the water pump housing were the a/c braket bolts up to the water pump housing.

Also check load housing for cracks were the carrier seals to housing.

I dont think it would matter if you boilded the bottles or not nothen could live in that sauce.

On a BC4 the bottom of the rad will be some what cold because it is a low flow system. But on a hi/flow system the top to the bottom should be like 15 degress colder at the bottom.

Send some of that to Rob so he want have to buy any more paint stripper.

i have pulled many of them with the frame brakets on the frame. Most guys pull the trans brakets on a B to get trans out.

lso that trans there was a noisy in o/d when new. So dont think nothen about the o/d howl.And also if the splitter is splitting betwwen the other gears ok like from 4th o/d to 4 direct then i would say the mechanics of the gearing is ok.

Timing.

If i remenber i think you said it did run ok at one time. But if not then it sounds as if the quill shaft has broken or sliped back from the aux main shaft.Or the spliter clutch and fork is loose.

I think the fuel mileage on all twin turbo cats was down. EPA is to blame.

It does not have a dowell in the block.When you install the screw on filter make sure and change the block and use the correct gasket for that block. There is maybe 4 different gaskets that will bolt up but only one for the block that you instal. I say block it will be a stand up housing that the filter head bolts to and the the pipes to the oil cooler will have to be used with the later screw on set up.There is a two full flow set up and a three full flow set up and a two full flow with the spinner filter.

Any engine manufactor will treat you same way. Look at it this way if you was a engine rebuilder and know what you are doing would you stand behind a engine that you sold to some one that you dont know that have jack up the HP?You would not be in business very long. Its easy for anyone to jack up the HP but dont exspect some one else to pay for your mistakes. If you dont understand whate makes a engine live then listen to some one that has been there and did it. How long do you think mack has been exspermenting with engines and turbos and now you read something that will hot rod your engine and now you want to try it but if it fauls let some one else pay for it. If you play you have to pay. Am i missing something in your post i mean was it like i read it?There is many products out there that will fool you ecm into doing something its not paided to do but cause some one has over size injectors for sale is for some one with deep pockets.

I got one to and it has a loose ground at the end of atarter. Bad thinbg is when i chnge oil i cant think to tighten the nut. So about ever few weeks it forgets to start and i get out and pull onn the cable and all is ok.I was working on macks when the starter was on bottom right side. The they came out with the maxidyn and moved it up on top but was not bad with the large canister filter but withthe three filter screw on makes it harder to work the starter.

Sensor is in the front center of the clutch but it never locks the clutch 100%

Do him like Fred Sandford told Grady. He told Grady that he was going to hit him in the head with a oak 2 by 4 soaked in used motor oil for 2 years. But on second tought you better get used to it.

Its gotta stop some were so go for the judge.

Rob i used Phil on some parts also and i like to deal with guys that know what they are doing and phil deals with mack parts.

Rob did you ever get on that diet and try to lose some of that weight?