Freightrain

You running the pike? Or state routes? I assume you're going straight through. Looking for any driving help?

My 33K lb Ohio plate was about $350. I thought the GVW dropped when I went Historical. Apparently it didn't, as the scalemaster showed me one time I was questioned. I had my CDL, insurance, med card and a smile and was told to have a nice day.

Ok, here's my set up. You can see the cable clamped and going through the eyelt on the linkage. The brass lock on the end pulls the throttle. Since the cable is loose through the eyelet, it allows the pedal to operate. Only when you pull the hand throttle out does it start to pull on the throttle. I have it set so it can pull it to WOT and keep speed on the highway. Poor mans cruise control.

What I found out was if I kept comm. plates on my truck, when I went to Syracuse for National convention 2003 it was going to kill me in temp HUT for PA and NY. They were only good for 3 days and I was going 4 days. Hmm, should I be illegal going out or coming back?? Hmmmm. Put Hist tags on the truck and forgot the whole issue.

Figured it was a late model motor, being a left hand starter.

Sorry, failed to get camera out to garage yesterday, so I'll try again.

Interesting....haven't seen a left side starter yet(I know they existed). Looks like they made plenty of room for it LOL!! What motor is in your truck?

Well, with some persuasion with a longer crowbar, I was able to pop it off the block without issue. Next stop, the junkyard.

There actually isn't much to the PTO throttle control. Mine has the cable casing clamped to the injection pump with simple band clamp, the cable then slides through the throttle arm and then has a clamp put on the end of the cable that when the handle is pulled, pulls on the throttle and holds it. I'll try to get a picture today when I'm out in the garage.

You won't much be able to make those front springs move no matter what you do with them. If you did take a few out, it will only drop about the amount of the leaves removed, barely.

I'm going to check with my connection at Adelmans and see if I can get everything in a package deal that way I shouldn't have issues. Just can't see why that block won't come off the engine? Only four bolts and I can't budge it.

Dang....looks like a great piece Rob! Air lift ramps to boot!! Not a bad price, heck you pay that kinda money for a heavy 18' utility tag.

Leon, check around on Ebay for old school amber beacon. Truck had one since I bought it, though I'd love to find an old round top style as I think it would look more appropriate. Here's one for you: http://cgi.ebay.com/COMMERICAL-AMBER-12-VOLT-ROOF-STROBE-BEACON-/380302041599?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588bc4a1ff I'm slowing getting the bunk ready to mount. Need to do some metal fab work to mounts and then get them bolted to frame. I have the rear window out of the truck and will start to figure out what I'm going to cut out. Won't go quickly, but should be nice when done. I spent today getting oil filter housing off motor. Thinking of switching to spin on filters?

Ok, I know it's a easy switch, but need to ask: Do I need to change the fittings on the oil filter housing on the side of the block? Or will I just plumb the screw on filter housing to fit? I have the full flow/bypass(3 hose design). I guess I'll cap the small return line(plug it at the block). What I've been dealing with for the last 9 yrs is constant draining of the old filter housing, which makes it take 10-20 second to get oil pressure after sitting a week or so. After looking at a manual I have, I see there is suppose to be a drainback valve in that line. I pulled it all apart today and found that the "cap" of the valve had a small hole in it. This allowed it to constantly drain after shutdown. I'd just fix it, but parts are likely non-existent. Part TWO: That filter housing on the side of the block seems to need a new gasket(been seeping and wet forever). I tried getting it apart today with no avail. I got the four big bolts out but can't get the housing off the block. Don't want to break it trying, is it glued or pinned? My big manual doesn't show enough detail.

Ouch..............PB blaster IS your best friend. Did have to replace a few on my truck back when I bought it. Luckily they came out with some heat and a pipe wrench.

hint........(follow the red arrow).................

Now that's cool! Every kids dream(well, okay at least mine anyway). Didn't get much early driving, best I did was start mom's Opel Cadet when I was about 11 yrs old. Got the big run down one day and was showed how to put in neutral(no safety devices back then) and start it(no fuel injection), pump the gas, crank it, etc. Closest to truck driving was about 10 yrs old and got to ride in this: Hence the love for ol KW's and twin sticks. That truck is what I've always wanted. Don't remember what power it had, but did have two pearl handled sticks!

Bummer Rob.......and you hadn't even planned to come to Ohio either?? Hmmmm? I think it's better to leave a few marks, that way it has more patina and maybe it will avoid those unmovable objects better?

Looks awesome Jim! With all the work you've done it should be BRAND spank'n new! Congrats on the good first trip.

That's Bill Donnely from out west. I remember when he did the paint job on the truck. He has a red single axle KW for sale also. He got the KW from John Evans from Arizona(?), used to a big poster on ATHS also. Had a big tadu and got mad and left. I wonder if Bill had health issues and is selling everything? Seems he fell a coule years ago? something like that? Maybe he's not mobile enough anymore.

Cool!!!! Makes for a neat garage sign.

Been hard at work lately. Got some major steps done on the truck. Got driveshafts made last week and installed, brownie is fully bolted in, air lines done, electric is all new to the back. Few loose ends to finish, but truck is basically drivable. Last Friday was it's maiden voyage out of the garage. Had to roll it out(manually) so I could install the axles as my walls are too narrow for me to put them in while in the garage. Sunday I was able to jump start the bobcat and get the bunk set up on the frame. My pickup didn't have enough "umph", so I had to get the Mack out and use it instead. Now that the bunk is on, I started to dismantle the boot and got the rear window out of the truck. Once I get all the boot stuff out of the way I'll slide the bunk up and see what it's going to take to mate them up. I know I'm going to lower the opening in the bunk and likely curve it to match the top of back window in truck. Then go down from there, likely about 1/2 way down back wall(to where the ribs are on the outside). Time will tell, just going along and adjusting as need be. The white on the truck(kinda appliance white) is close to the eggshell white of the bunk, but not quite. Likely leave it alone for now and worry about it once it gets warm out. Picture doesn't do it justice.

Very, very cool ol Dodge.

Just have to measure the mounting area where the rims fit to see if it takes the same spacer and wedges. I'm going through that right now with the air ride I put on my truck. I would think that the spoke diameter would be different between 22.5 and 24"? Isn't the rim diameter bigger? Budds, you don't have to worry, but spokes I would think they would be different. ??

Got an older Millermatic, like a 250? Can't recall what model. 220v machine, is kinda rickety but once you get it set up it burns decent. Would love to have a new electronic Miller like buddy has. Very finite control of voltage and is about totally silent running. Mine sounds like all hells breaking lose if you are stitching along. That ol contactor just beat'n its points off LOL!! Can't complain, friend gave it to me to use for as long as I want(been near 20 yrs).