Freightrain

Rowdy.........that is Freak'n hilarious!!!!!!! Love it, wish I could make a patch like that for my buddy who has one LOL!!!

Happy B day Rob...........even it I'm late to the party AGAIN! I'm sure glad OTHER people are having birthdays and NOT me. I'm feeling old enough already.

Welcome aboard. Saw that truck and also knew I'd seen it before. Glad you got a good one and hope you have fun with it. Been a few years back, Oldmacks.com had a firetruck crew cab for sale. That would be the ticket to throw on your chassis. Usually firetrucks go pretty cheap in the realm of things. Yup, gotta watch out for some of the "clowns" on here. No picture is safe LOL!!! We do like to have some light hearted fun on here, nothing too serious.

One difference..........well maybe two from the Ed Fitz. This one isn't broke in two AND it's sitting on the bottom and still above water!!!!

Always wondered the reason for the black sheilding, makes sense. My '95 F150(that got totalled) had a leak in the top center of window, not terrible, but a drip. I tried to get the one local shop to just cut it out and reset it. Nope, they had to spend an afternoon screwing around with it before they would cut it out. Come on guys, just do it. Nope. I tried using the liquid stuff from Azone and poured it across the top. It just didn't seem to help any, but looked like it had totally filled the top groove. Don't have to worry about it anymore LOL!!! My '89 that replaced it got a new window back when I got the bed fixed after the next moron in a minivan whacked it. Apparently the glass guy was concerned the truck was a rust bucket and would be a nightmare. My friend who owned the bodyshop told him.."No problem, it's a creampuff of a truck". It's nice driving and knowing you won't have water dripping on the dash(or YOU).

The only BAD thing about your water leak check.........is you are assuming the cab is air tight. Ever seen the inside of my truck?? LOL!!! New cars are much tighter then anything 50 yrs ago. You can't hardly get the doors closed on my '89 F150 because it's so freak'n air tight. Makes me cuss more then not! Guess I'll have to wait for the floors to rot out then the doors will close LOL!!! (and that ain't happen'n for a longgg time)

From 1984-1996 I drove my trusty 1970 F100 pickup. I loved it as you COULDN'T lock yourself out as you HAD to use the key on the outside to lock it. I called it "dummy broad proof" back in the day. Well, up to the last few months before I got my new '96 F350 the door locks were a bit worn out. If you shut the door too hard, it would drop the knob and lock on you. Not a big issue UNLESS the key was in the ignition. One day at work I was backing inside the shop to pickup something up so I could deliver it on the way home. I got out(truck running) to open the door and "ooops" the door locked! dammit. I had to wrangle up a coat hanger(lots of those since we have uniform service) and wiggle the vent window open. Lucky my go-go gadget arms were long enough to reach the lock.

Few years back I put the new rubber/glass in, the lock ring tool was $20 sumthin and the glass shop only charged $20 to do it. Duh...have at it! I might stop in and see if I can bring it in when I get it back together and have them pull the glass and seal it up better. I know the lower part of the driver side post had some rust and I sealed it up with POR 15. A small part of the ridge was gone, but not enough to worry about. I tried using the windshield sealant from Azone that is suppose to "run down and fill in gaps". Didnt do much. I think the lights are sealed okay, though the bases area a bit rusty from 50 yrs. Don't seem to get water down the post, only under the corner of the windshield. Just another lil project that needs to get attention.

I got a reply back from John, he's doing well. He's outta trucks, besides his '65 Ranchero. Yes, the ATHS board does have its issues, but not going to go into here either. To each their own.

I think it's coming in from the outside edge, somewhere around the top edge maybe and running down inside edge til it gets to the corner and then drops down dash. Nothing coming from the glass area, only under the rubber moulding. Need to buy the dohicky thingmabob to put the lock strip back in when I pull the glass out and fix it. Where do you get this stuff? Auto paint store? or specialty supply house? local glass place? Might even just take it and have it done?

Sounds like one of those "WTF" moments LOL!!! Where you just can't figure out how the hell you screwed things up that bad with such little work??? Back when I moved into new place, the garage caught me off guard one night. It's winter, night, cold, snowy and I go to the garage to work. Lock the house, since it's across the lot and I don't trust anyone(though it's a nice neighborhood). I had to leave garage for moment, opened door and walked out and door shut behind me. Seems one of the hinges was spring loaded to close door AND I forgot to turn the lock on the inside of the door handle so I was locked out of garage AND house with no coat, no keys, no cellphone, nadda-nut'n. Dammit!! Had to jimmy one of the garage doors to finally get myself back inside. Geezus, what was I thinking? I've since removed that stupid spring hinge so door won't close and I ALWAYS check the lock before leaving!!! I also have a hidden spare key that I've had to use a couple times in the last few years due to stupidity on my part.

The fact I didn't GLUE my new glass/rubber in the front of my truck makes it leak like a siv with any more then a drizzle outside!! I guess I need to pull it all back out and get the super glue out? Really tired of getting a wet knee every rainstorm. Glad to hear the trailer is showing up.

Remember John well. Still have his phone number in my lil blue book. Stan Walls just bout had me buying John's yellow KW back when, as Stan bought that grey Peterbilt from John. I do remember the big "tadu" at the ATHS forums and remember John leaving. Sad day.

Mark, as you see in the bunk picture I have a very nice boot(plus a very nice spare), using those I'm going to make a 2" wide flange around the cab opening that I'l be able to screw the boot to just like originally done. That along with some black putty sealer(whatever they call it, that's all over the bunk), PLUS the fact it will hardly see weather, I don't contemplate any leakage. Yes, the boots are too long, but I'll cut them short to fit and leave the overlap at the bottom. They are not formed fittted, so once I cut it, it will lay flat and then be bent to fit my opening. At least that's the plan.

I've been working on this part of the project in my head for a few weeks now(or months actually). I took a deep breathe when I started with the grinder LOL!!! I need to borrow a friends 120v welder so I can get in there to weld on cab(it's a nice gas version-not flux core). My big ol Miller won't reach around the corner and no room on the sides of truck to move welder either. Ya, the gladhands will be coming off, along with the rear spotlights. With the layout I have, there would still be room to get off even with bunk up to cab. Won't wait that long though.

I hate dealing with screwballs like that. The seller set up the deal and he should have called you to see if you wanted it first. At least that would be the "right" thing to do. How did the buyer show up sooner? How close were you? Apparently he wanted to sell the truck more then buy a fifthwheel? Sh*t happens, but like they say "musta been fate".

More updates Got the cab cut out...........NO going back now!!!! Got some metal work to make up the 2" flange for mounting the boot. Then making the front of the bunk to match.

Buddy has a nice RV air unit for it, but it won't clear my garage! Dammit! I was going to open it up more, but once I got the rear panel off and realized it was structured back there I figure to follow them. With the seats in there, anymore opening is a mute point anyway.

No problem Trent. Just updating over here, looking at options.

Well, it's been a slow fight with getting the bunk mounted. The original mounts were twice as tall as needed, so took them to work and cut them. Then I need to get them situated on the frame, line up the bunk and work out a bolt pattern. Come to find out the rear mounts go right on top of my front aux mount bolts! Grrr. With some persuasion on the mill I was able to slot the back half of the mount plate(it's double 1/4" plate) so the heads clear. Got them clamped in position and drilled for two bolts. Originally had three 1/2" bolts, only can get two 5/8" bolts in there. Don't think it's going to fall off with two bigger bolts. Won't see the abuse of OTR anyhow. Got the rear panels off the back of cab and will start getting that cut out. Won't be going too big, I'm going to follow the tapered supports down to the middle support and then will be closing the opening up on the bunk to match. Hopefully by next week I'll have some updates.

Well, I need everything I guess. It doesn't have an oil cooler, it does have a full flow filter on it. I've got the plate all cleaned up and was going to just reassemble it all. It's worked okay for 50 yrs, just thought since I'm fixing leaks I would change it over since I had to pull the whole contraption off.

WTH!!! I get a call back from Adelmans and they don't have any screw on filter setups they can sell me. ???? What? Apparently they don't have any bad cores to strip parts from. Everything they have is complete/running and won't separate. Geez.

Barry used to have them in the B model store. I looked around and didn't find them anymore? I did find some locking throttle cables at Grainger.com. I tried to copy the link but my computer isn't being nice today. Not sure if this is the proper link? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=locking+throttle&op=search&Ntt=locking+throttle&N=0&sst=subset

Let me know your plans....so far. I'm up for a road trip. Couple cans of Coke and I'm good to go!

Best/easiest way to get pictures to forums is use Photobucket or the like to "host"(store) your pictures then just copy the "link" to get them to your post. It's a relatively simple task once you see how it's done. Go to Photobucket.com and sign up(it's free, don't follow any links that say pay or upgrade). Then follow their download instructions. Once pics are there, under each photo there is a box with the "link". Just copy/paste that link to your post and Viola' a picture is included.