Freightrain

I put Toyo tires on mine when I got it. It had whipped bias ply tires on it. I had about $300/tire-rim assembly($250 tire/$50 used rim). These were 22.5 tires.

Holy CRAP!! That brings back some BAD memories. After seeing a full street full of stopped vehicles and one comes fly'n throught like they are the ONLY one on the road. Yup, that is what happen to me a couple years ago. Woman in a minivan, completely clueless that two other lanes of traffic were STOPPED and she blew through at 45 mph and took me out as I crossed the intersection. Dam, still pisses me off to this day. I do ALOT more looking around for crap like that anymore, especially when I ride my scooter!!! Did you see the flip that person did on the bike towards they end(with the blue car). Ouch!!! Makes you want to ban cell phones completely. Oh, can't forget this one either. Yup, another woman in a minivan NOT paying attention.

hatcity, I was expecting this picture of "Smilin Bob"............. LMAO!!!!!

My B had that style pipe on it too. Love it.

Ya, getting that way AGAIN! Cheap stuff is 3.39 around here, was 3.19 last monday when I filled up. Don't even want to know how diesel is going, though I know it was about 3.69 a few weeks ago.

Too much night putting? LOL!!

Sometimes seems few and far between. Glad to hear about it.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Gotta tell you though this is the FIRST time I ever used a stretcher and was really going on a wing/prayer and figured if I screwed it up I would just get more material. Strange enough it went really well. Like I mentioned I didn't think the stretcher would work with 14 ga material(like .072 thick)but with persuasion and lots of grunt it moved it fairly well. Just pull, move it slightly and pull again, repeat. My original thought was if I could just get the top radius I'd cut/paste the rest and weld on a flange from some 16ga material I have. Well, as I went, it went well so I just kept going. I had my cardboard template to follow so I just kept easing up on it. Only pull a couple times, check, pull a couple times, check, repeat. Easier to sneak up then have to use the "shrinker" LOL!! Did learn as I go and was pretty confident as I started the lower piece. That one I was sure I would have to cut/bend and weld in corner. With some work I got the first lower corner done, with only one small tear in the material (easy to weld up), the second corner went well and didn't tear. With template and centerline marks to follow I knew how much I had to go. I'm surely no expert and don't want to brag about any of it. It's turning out decent, though it won't win any prizes. I'm lucky,nothing has to match "exact" and most won't be seen once it's together. I wish I had a big roomy shop and plenty of light to work, but I don't so I do with what I got. It's comparable to working in an old one bay shed with a 100watt lightbulb LOL! There is literally just enough room to squeeze by on each side. Love to make Macungie someday. With the longer legs, it might be an easier trip. Fuel costs is the other issue with today. I plan for my racing and any other is up to the budget. I will be at South Bend.

Well, got some stuff accomplished before the big show last night on Speed Channel! My metal working....... Slowly turning into sumthin' Matches up to my cardboard template of the back of the cab. Back of cab.. front of bunk..................the opening will be shimmed up about 2" from where it sits.... I got the outer framework predrilled and pulled out of the front of the bunk. Ready for some primer and bolt it back in permanently. Then I'll mount the inner framework and prime it all. Once it's in for good, I'll drill out the existing rivets around the big opening. I'll get a piece of aluminum cut to fit 1-2" outside the rivet line and re-rivet the new panel in after cutting the new smaller opening. All that will be left to do is rivet around the small opening. I've got the front bunk mounts propped up in location, just need to get holes drilled and bolted on. I will then cut up my stack brackets to fit around the bunk mounts and get that all put back on. I need to get paint for the back of cab and bunk and once painted I'll bolt the boot on. I got SS button head for the top half as they will be exposed, the lower ones will be self tappers like existing holes. I'm really thrilled with the way the framework turned out. I was concerned the metal stretcher wouldn't pull the 14 ga material. It took some finesse and some grunting but it did a great job. Only got one tear in the lower corner which I was surprised it pulled it around that tight. I was expecting to cut the lip off and cut/weld one back on once I bent the corners. I gave a shot and low/behold it worked. Another milestone.

Another thing to check is the vent tubes on the top/back of the tanks. Try this(if you still have issues), removed the gas cap on the drivers side and drive it. If nothing bad happens, then it's the vent tubes, which as only 1/8"? copper and likely got clogged up. In doing so, it runs long enough til it pulls a good vacuum and can't pull fuel anymore. Had a few guys on here have that issue. Now, if you had Rob working on it and it stalled, the first thing we'd do is tell you to check the tanks for fuel LOL!! (just had to buddy ) BTW, my truck had that issue back when I got it. It was my fuel filter as it hadn't been changed in the last 25-30 yrs? Only after I got it on the highway would it run out of fuel, but lucky for me it would idle down and make it home. Of course that is when I found out the fuel canister was rotted out in the bottom and the sludge was keeping it from leaking. Had to get replacement and all has been fine for last 9 yrs.

Very interesting designed trailer. Can't wait to see it hooked up to the ol R.

Yowza!!!! Man, talk about making out. I bought a pair(left/right side) of NOS door shells like that 10 yrs ago, still sitting in the basement. Guess with pricing like that, I'll be able to pay off the farm a bit sooner LOL!!! I'll sell them to him for $2K each and then he can make $500 each profit when he sells them.

Well, I have plans for going to South Bend this year. Haven't made a convention since Auburn! Sure was a good time meeting up with all the guys and talking trucks. I'll be trying out the longggg legs of my truck this year.... Yehaaw! 85 mph and the wind at my back LMAO!!!! (ya, right). It will likely take a strong wind to push it to 85 mph with a trailer. Diesel fuel will likely kill alot of traveling this year even with my racing schedule. I've got a race at Indy on May 7th but with coming out to South Bend two weeks later I'll likely not go to Indy(even though I really want to go). I know the ATHS group will have a big gathering, maybe on Sat?

I've been pulling with my B model for 8 yrs now, but I did cut the springs down to 3 main leaves. It rides pretty nice with trailer on and it hasn't created any problems. BUT, my trailer is alot stouter then a regular RV version. I did break a spring a couple years ago, but they were the original leafs and with all the motion they got over the years took their toll. I then put 3 new leafs on both sides and still going strong. Well, not any more as I converted to air ride.

More progress: Got the back of cab all welded up, Predrilled holes for the bolts for the boot, Started on framework for enclosing the front of the bunk in some, Got some detail work before I paint the cab. Picking up some dum dum sealer for the boot tomorrow, got stainless steel bolts coming for the boot. Will start on the matching framework for the front of bunk next. I also started on front bunk mounts on frame. Had to pull existing stack brackets off to make room. This coming week should have things moving along again.

I'm still cornfused. What powers the box forward? The pup trailer? Then what power the trailer as it's never hooked up to the truck when transfering? Or is it when they stick the two prongs of the pup into the back of the dump body, does it get power that way???

I am older and wiser now, and am looking for a girl with big tits. Got that covered this time myself. The rest is a mishmash of all the rest LOL!!!

Sumthin' you can just hop in and run down to the corner store for milk in........... Cool!

I wish I could do that to a few people around our shop. Have a few guys that stand around with dumb looks when something needs done and they don't want to do it. Our S/R guy WOULDN'T run a towmotor!!!! Ya, sure enough, he didn't want to, said "he didn't feel safe". So they had to pull a machinist off to load/unload trucks while S/R guy watched. Huh? Finally proded enough to finally get him to run the towmotor so he could do HIS job!! I've spent the last 25 freak'n years at this place doing ANYTHING to make sure the doors stayed open and I'll be damned if I'll watch these idiots screw it up. When asked what my job description is, I tell them "I do everything but sign the checks". Step up or get the heck out!

Love how some places "just throw parts at it" , til hopefully something makes it run right. Alternator? Did they use a voltmeter to check to see if it was working? Likely not. Fuel pump?? Did they put a gauge on the rail to see if it was holding pressure?? Likely not. They simply guessed, twice, and were wrong on both accounts. They apparently don't have "techs", only "parts handlers". Why don't they start with the cheap fixes first? (oh that's right, can't make money on them).

Had a local racer pass away and they opened the dragstrip(winter time) for one last trip. Thought that was pretty cool. Feeling old, but still wayy too young to be thinking about funeral plans. You never know though.

LOL!!! Ya, it sucks anymore. Last summer, buddy and I went to local Azone to get a brass plug for brake fitting. Ya, they had it..... $4!!!!!!!!! Say what?? For a simple .25 brass plug?? Buddy dropped it on the counter and we walked out muttering. I have a good connection(friend) at local NAPA that will actually look up and work to get you what you need. If it means them buying it down the street at Carquest LOL!! (don't laugh, they do it. Buy it, pick it up and bring it back and hand it to you). He usually just sends me down "as their driver" and I get it at cost.

Batten down the hatches and fire up the ol Cub Cadet!! Survived the ice storm last night, had to break away 1/2" of ice to get in truck this morning. Be getting the tractor set up tonight for the big blast. Bring it on!! BTW, ah, Rob...........make sure you got GAS..........LOL!!! Don't need to run out in the middle of the driveway LOL!!

Ya, it won't get shifted alot actually, just for any slow moving around. I'm going to run it in Direct most times. Just hoped to find a shifter I could just bolt on without having to build one.

It's a Spicer 6041 I'd have to agree that a COE shifter might be a bit bulky to mount anywhere and get the linkage back to aux. tranny. Not alot of room under cab and a crossmember directly behind it that I need to work around. I understand how they work and what would need to be done, but not enough room. I've had thoughts of building a block. Thick plate with two maybe 3/4" square sliding rods that are actuated by a shift handle(with a ball riding in slots on the squares). I realize it really isn't rocket science but sure would be easier to just buy it then make it right now. Got too many projects right now to add to the mess of putting one together. I have the technology, just not the time and energy. You know, LOL!!