Freightrain

Buddy has a nice RV air unit for it, but it won't clear my garage! Dammit! I was going to open it up more, but once I got the rear panel off and realized it was structured back there I figure to follow them. With the seats in there, anymore opening is a mute point anyway.

No problem Trent. Just updating over here, looking at options.

Well, it's been a slow fight with getting the bunk mounted. The original mounts were twice as tall as needed, so took them to work and cut them. Then I need to get them situated on the frame, line up the bunk and work out a bolt pattern. Come to find out the rear mounts go right on top of my front aux mount bolts! Grrr. With some persuasion on the mill I was able to slot the back half of the mount plate(it's double 1/4" plate) so the heads clear. Got them clamped in position and drilled for two bolts. Originally had three 1/2" bolts, only can get two 5/8" bolts in there. Don't think it's going to fall off with two bigger bolts. Won't see the abuse of OTR anyhow. Got the rear panels off the back of cab and will start getting that cut out. Won't be going too big, I'm going to follow the tapered supports down to the middle support and then will be closing the opening up on the bunk to match. Hopefully by next week I'll have some updates.

Well, I need everything I guess. It doesn't have an oil cooler, it does have a full flow filter on it. I've got the plate all cleaned up and was going to just reassemble it all. It's worked okay for 50 yrs, just thought since I'm fixing leaks I would change it over since I had to pull the whole contraption off.

WTH!!! I get a call back from Adelmans and they don't have any screw on filter setups they can sell me. ???? What? Apparently they don't have any bad cores to strip parts from. Everything they have is complete/running and won't separate. Geez.

Barry used to have them in the B model store. I looked around and didn't find them anymore? I did find some locking throttle cables at Grainger.com. I tried to copy the link but my computer isn't being nice today. Not sure if this is the proper link? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=locking+throttle&op=search&Ntt=locking+throttle&N=0&sst=subset

Let me know your plans....so far. I'm up for a road trip. Couple cans of Coke and I'm good to go!

Best/easiest way to get pictures to forums is use Photobucket or the like to "host"(store) your pictures then just copy the "link" to get them to your post. It's a relatively simple task once you see how it's done. Go to Photobucket.com and sign up(it's free, don't follow any links that say pay or upgrade). Then follow their download instructions. Once pics are there, under each photo there is a box with the "link". Just copy/paste that link to your post and Viola' a picture is included.

You running the pike? Or state routes? I assume you're going straight through. Looking for any driving help?

My 33K lb Ohio plate was about $350. I thought the GVW dropped when I went Historical. Apparently it didn't, as the scalemaster showed me one time I was questioned. I had my CDL, insurance, med card and a smile and was told to have a nice day.

Ok, here's my set up. You can see the cable clamped and going through the eyelt on the linkage. The brass lock on the end pulls the throttle. Since the cable is loose through the eyelet, it allows the pedal to operate. Only when you pull the hand throttle out does it start to pull on the throttle. I have it set so it can pull it to WOT and keep speed on the highway. Poor mans cruise control.

What I found out was if I kept comm. plates on my truck, when I went to Syracuse for National convention 2003 it was going to kill me in temp HUT for PA and NY. They were only good for 3 days and I was going 4 days. Hmm, should I be illegal going out or coming back?? Hmmmm. Put Hist tags on the truck and forgot the whole issue.

Figured it was a late model motor, being a left hand starter.

Sorry, failed to get camera out to garage yesterday, so I'll try again.

Interesting....haven't seen a left side starter yet(I know they existed). Looks like they made plenty of room for it LOL!! What motor is in your truck?

Well, with some persuasion with a longer crowbar, I was able to pop it off the block without issue. Next stop, the junkyard.

There actually isn't much to the PTO throttle control. Mine has the cable casing clamped to the injection pump with simple band clamp, the cable then slides through the throttle arm and then has a clamp put on the end of the cable that when the handle is pulled, pulls on the throttle and holds it. I'll try to get a picture today when I'm out in the garage.

You won't much be able to make those front springs move no matter what you do with them. If you did take a few out, it will only drop about the amount of the leaves removed, barely.

I'm going to check with my connection at Adelmans and see if I can get everything in a package deal that way I shouldn't have issues. Just can't see why that block won't come off the engine? Only four bolts and I can't budge it.

Dang....looks like a great piece Rob! Air lift ramps to boot!! Not a bad price, heck you pay that kinda money for a heavy 18' utility tag.

Leon, check around on Ebay for old school amber beacon. Truck had one since I bought it, though I'd love to find an old round top style as I think it would look more appropriate. Here's one for you: http://cgi.ebay.com/COMMERICAL-AMBER-12-VOLT-ROOF-STROBE-BEACON-/380302041599?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588bc4a1ff I'm slowing getting the bunk ready to mount. Need to do some metal fab work to mounts and then get them bolted to frame. I have the rear window out of the truck and will start to figure out what I'm going to cut out. Won't go quickly, but should be nice when done. I spent today getting oil filter housing off motor. Thinking of switching to spin on filters?

Ok, I know it's a easy switch, but need to ask: Do I need to change the fittings on the oil filter housing on the side of the block? Or will I just plumb the screw on filter housing to fit? I have the full flow/bypass(3 hose design). I guess I'll cap the small return line(plug it at the block). What I've been dealing with for the last 9 yrs is constant draining of the old filter housing, which makes it take 10-20 second to get oil pressure after sitting a week or so. After looking at a manual I have, I see there is suppose to be a drainback valve in that line. I pulled it all apart today and found that the "cap" of the valve had a small hole in it. This allowed it to constantly drain after shutdown. I'd just fix it, but parts are likely non-existent. Part TWO: That filter housing on the side of the block seems to need a new gasket(been seeping and wet forever). I tried getting it apart today with no avail. I got the four big bolts out but can't get the housing off the block. Don't want to break it trying, is it glued or pinned? My big manual doesn't show enough detail.

Ouch..............PB blaster IS your best friend. Did have to replace a few on my truck back when I bought it. Luckily they came out with some heat and a pipe wrench.

hint........(follow the red arrow).................

Now that's cool! Every kids dream(well, okay at least mine anyway). Didn't get much early driving, best I did was start mom's Opel Cadet when I was about 11 yrs old. Got the big run down one day and was showed how to put in neutral(no safety devices back then) and start it(no fuel injection), pump the gas, crank it, etc. Closest to truck driving was about 10 yrs old and got to ride in this: Hence the love for ol KW's and twin sticks. That truck is what I've always wanted. Don't remember what power it had, but did have two pearl handled sticks!