Freightrain

It's my buddy's car. He bought it new in '83. With my '69 F100 back in 1990. About 1992 we cut it up: He sold the original 4banger in 1994, the car sat since then. He started finishing the roll cage and stuff, but lost interest. I finally kicked him hard enough he brought it over and we worked a couple winters on it. Getting 460/doug nash 5spd put in: Cage and finished the interior: He is very meticulous and everything was done perfect: Finally about 18 yrs later, it hits the track this past spring. Runs 10.3's in the 1/4 mile.

Mine must of had original wear rings, as they were shrunk on, but still o-ringed. There was no index hole to keep it from spinning. The replacement Stemco version needed a small hole drilled in the spindle to index it.

Interesting. Mine has always run at 160+ degrees pretty regularly. Lucky I guess. Mine doesn't have the oil cooler though. Is that screw-on a charged filter for coolant? Be interesting to add that to mine? I've had the coolant out of mine a couple times in the last 10 yrs, added a few new gallons, but never checked PH level. Probably should?

I picked up this Talledega a few years ago. It's too tall for a B model, unless I can find a short pedestal for it? Seat is brand new, just dusty now from sitting in my garage. Using it for a comfy garage chair presently. I don't mind my Bostrom seats, I had the drivers seat recovered in cloth about 10 yrs ago as I hated the vinyl(too freak'n hot to sit on, sweat my ass off). Do wish I had arm rests, but might look at getting those clip on types that hang on the door windows.

When I converted mine over, I installed a Ford starter solenoid under the passenger seat and tied it into the original starter button on the dash. The Ford solenoid fired the starter solenoid. Works perfect, no unneeded changes to the wiring to get it to work. Since the original series/parallel switch was right there and the starter button was connected to it, it was a no brainer.

Actually I didn't have to replace the seals, as they were in good shape then. Though I did just replace the drivers side this past summer. I had to replace the wear sleeve on the spindle, as that was the cause for the seal to leak. That was the reason I found out the seal was out, it got grease on the brakes and it started to pull when I applied the brakes. The wear sleeve came off pretty easy with just some concentrated heat in one spot and it came right loose and slid off with a screwdriver. I would suggest removing the tires from the hubs. Much easier/lighter. Plus when you go to install the bearings and set the preload you won't have this big tire to deal with.

Welcome to the forums!! Don't have any insight on that fancy new stuff.

Just about got one Thurs afternoon coming back to work. Had a road trip, got off freeway, was coming up the road. I just glanced around quickly and when I looked forward again(no cars around), I saw a nice big Buck standing in my lane. DOH!! I got on the brakes and laid on the horn. He kicked and scrapped to get moving and ran off. I had room, was not close enough to worry about hitting it. Just startled the hell out of me.

A voltmeter goes in SERIES with a load. If you put it across something(parallel), it will read ZERO. An AMP meter goes in PARALLEL with a load. Yup, sounds like it needs some fuel?? Did you pre-fill the filters? Ya, better off to just give up and ship it back over East and we'll take care of disposing of that "useless scrapmetal" LOL!!!

Id try to get some weight on it. Get some heat in the tires and see if they smooth out. Beg borrow or steal a trailer? Do you have air/electric to pull something? Jack it up and rotate each hub. Using a broom handle on a post to measure any run out at the hub. Then work on each tire.

......................and that...........................is the REST of the story.

Yup, I see it up at the race in Milan, Michigan every year. He has it apart right now as I think he is trying to get an OD automatic in it to make it more friendly on the highway. I tried searching for his post here, but can't find it.

Likely has a 50 gal on drivers side, and 40 gal on passenger side(if they are like a typical . The smaller tank on the passenger side gives it room for the exhaust to come up the cab corner. Maybe a C model has two 40's since the cab is moved forward??? I put another 40 gal on the drivers side to make room for my dual exhaust. I have a brand new muffler and heat shield, only ran one summer. Comes with long 90 turn out. Not sure it would fit under your dump bed?? Would love to see it go somewhere.

Sorry to hear about your Grandma. I think what Jamie is asking is: does the trailer have the common 4" square neck hitch on it? I converted my Haulmark gooseneck to 5th wheel pin to fit my Mack. It could be pulled by anything then.

For a 24v starter. Swithes the leads from parallel to series to up the voltage to the starter. Was real popular back with 6v batteries.

Yup, mine has the split intake. One pipe around front, one around back. That ring you see is the metal clamp that supports it and attaches to a head stud.

Is the fuel shut off open? Here is a shot of my pump: The fuel shut off is the lever on the far right/middle of picture. Mine is shown in the OFF position. It needs to be pushed forward to allow fuel to start. Have you pumped the primer to see if you can build any pressure? It should be easy at first, then get hard as it builds pressure. If it doesn't get stiffer, then it's not getting fuel.

Let the truck idle and walk around to the air tanks. Should be relief valves installed(at least one) and listen to see if it pops off while sitting there. It should if your air pressure gets to 150# on the dash guage. If the govenor is stuck, then it won't release the unloader valve in the compressor head to make it just "freewheel". Thus over pressurizing the system and makes the releif valve let go to keep things from coming apart at the seams(like the air tanks). Mine was leaking so bad it would not "cut in" and allow compressor to make air. Just the opposite of your situation. If I'm thinking correctly, the govenor supplies air to the unloader, once it reaches maximum(120 psi) it pushes on unloader valve to release compression in pump(freewheeling it). Once air pressure drops down to 90psi(cut in), it releases the unloader valve to make compressor work again. Now, if you have an air dryer, this will also "spit" occasionally. About the size of a coffee can, hanging on the frame. This is just letting moisture out of the lines. Not relieving pressure in a safety aspect. Here is a shot of my govenor: One copper line in from air supply manifold on firewall, the soft line goes to the compressor head.

I got up and came to work this morning, just like the last 26 yrs, and likely for the rest of my life. Nothing I can do to change anything about it. I'm not happy about it, but I'm not going around stomping my feet and cussing either. That won't fix a thing. Life goes on, unless you decide to check out early.

If you did try to just put a new powerplant in it, the rear gears would have to be changed out as it likely is geared really, really slow(6.xx). Best bet would be change the whole axle, as finding gears only would be a lost cause.

Fuel went up $.30/gal yesterday morning. Was 3.19 Monday night, was 3.49 Tuesday by noon. Guess I shoulda filled up Monday night? On well, what else is new?

I think the term here is "rode HARD and put away wet"

Has anyone notice the slight deletion of cookies PER box? They keep making the package smaller and smaller and smaller. Not a happy camper, though the grocery store does put them on sale quite frequently. I try to limit myself to just 6 ciookies at a sitting. Big glass of milk and I'm like a pig in mud!

Note to Maintenance. Repair order: one new flood light. cost $30. one spray can white paint: cost $5 two new DOT stripes: cost $3 Repair order: One new truck: cost $150,000. DOH!

I need to get over to Russo concrete. They have a fleet of U's sitting there with mixers on them.