Freightrain

Likely has a 50 gal on drivers side, and 40 gal on passenger side(if they are like a typical . The smaller tank on the passenger side gives it room for the exhaust to come up the cab corner. Maybe a C model has two 40's since the cab is moved forward??? I put another 40 gal on the drivers side to make room for my dual exhaust. I have a brand new muffler and heat shield, only ran one summer. Comes with long 90 turn out. Not sure it would fit under your dump bed?? Would love to see it go somewhere.

Sorry to hear about your Grandma. I think what Jamie is asking is: does the trailer have the common 4" square neck hitch on it? I converted my Haulmark gooseneck to 5th wheel pin to fit my Mack. It could be pulled by anything then.

For a 24v starter. Swithes the leads from parallel to series to up the voltage to the starter. Was real popular back with 6v batteries.

Yup, mine has the split intake. One pipe around front, one around back. That ring you see is the metal clamp that supports it and attaches to a head stud.

Is the fuel shut off open? Here is a shot of my pump: The fuel shut off is the lever on the far right/middle of picture. Mine is shown in the OFF position. It needs to be pushed forward to allow fuel to start. Have you pumped the primer to see if you can build any pressure? It should be easy at first, then get hard as it builds pressure. If it doesn't get stiffer, then it's not getting fuel.

Let the truck idle and walk around to the air tanks. Should be relief valves installed(at least one) and listen to see if it pops off while sitting there. It should if your air pressure gets to 150# on the dash guage. If the govenor is stuck, then it won't release the unloader valve in the compressor head to make it just "freewheel". Thus over pressurizing the system and makes the releif valve let go to keep things from coming apart at the seams(like the air tanks). Mine was leaking so bad it would not "cut in" and allow compressor to make air. Just the opposite of your situation. If I'm thinking correctly, the govenor supplies air to the unloader, once it reaches maximum(120 psi) it pushes on unloader valve to release compression in pump(freewheeling it). Once air pressure drops down to 90psi(cut in), it releases the unloader valve to make compressor work again. Now, if you have an air dryer, this will also "spit" occasionally. About the size of a coffee can, hanging on the frame. This is just letting moisture out of the lines. Not relieving pressure in a safety aspect. Here is a shot of my govenor: One copper line in from air supply manifold on firewall, the soft line goes to the compressor head.

I got up and came to work this morning, just like the last 26 yrs, and likely for the rest of my life. Nothing I can do to change anything about it. I'm not happy about it, but I'm not going around stomping my feet and cussing either. That won't fix a thing. Life goes on, unless you decide to check out early.

If you did try to just put a new powerplant in it, the rear gears would have to be changed out as it likely is geared really, really slow(6.xx). Best bet would be change the whole axle, as finding gears only would be a lost cause.

Fuel went up $.30/gal yesterday morning. Was 3.19 Monday night, was 3.49 Tuesday by noon. Guess I shoulda filled up Monday night? On well, what else is new?

I think the term here is "rode HARD and put away wet"

Has anyone notice the slight deletion of cookies PER box? They keep making the package smaller and smaller and smaller. Not a happy camper, though the grocery store does put them on sale quite frequently. I try to limit myself to just 6 ciookies at a sitting. Big glass of milk and I'm like a pig in mud!

Note to Maintenance. Repair order: one new flood light. cost $30. one spray can white paint: cost $5 two new DOT stripes: cost $3 Repair order: One new truck: cost $150,000. DOH!

I need to get over to Russo concrete. They have a fleet of U's sitting there with mixers on them.

Vlad sounds like your safety valve is popping off and releasing air from the tanks. They are right on the tank, and could be weak? Usually they are suppose to be up around 150 psi before letting off. Not saying it couldn't be the govenor?? Mine only leaked enough to be heard after truck is off. Then it had a slight hiss coming from the end where the snap ring is at. I think that is why truck drained air pressure so quickly anymore. I did have a air release sound this past summer, running down the road, never sitting still. Just a quick "hiss" and would never affect air pressure gauge. Never at cut in or cut out pressure. I searched all summer for that noise. Not sure, maybe this had something to do with it??? Won't really know til next spring when I get truck out and run it again.

Ok, got home with parts and put it together. Works NICE!! Doesn't leak after shutting truck off(you could hear it before). Two o rings(1.25 x .093) for a grand total of $0.87 You can see the top one I had to break to get off, it was hard as rock. A shot down the hole. I did wipe it out, but it was clean, no sludge. I few drops of oil on the o rings and I slid it back together and installed the snap ring. Not bad for a few minutes work and less then a $1 in parts.

I hung my new rubber in the "installed" manner to get it more into shape(by a couple hangers, so it hung in a rectangle shape). It was all bunched up in a box, so it had no shape.

I used 3M putty strips cant recall but come in blue box. Put strips around pinch weld area and then press gasket over. Getting glass in is tricky and cant say what is best/easiest way. Lotsa cussing getting last corner in. If I recall I worked outside first then worked around to center strip. Didnt crack or break it so it was successful!!! I paid local glass shop the $15? for putting in lock strip. Easier for them with the right tools and experience.

Well I'd just get a new one but if all it is wrong is o-rings then for less the a buck it will be fixed. Nothing much to it and I've heard it leaking lately(getting air past the o-rings on piston). I will find out later today and I'll report back. Might even take a couple pics. Mike, the tanks stay dry with no oil from the rebuilt compressor and doesnt see alot of temperature swing since staying in the garage. The govenor was clean inside as it pulls off the junction block on firewall so it doesnt see oil or water. The heat I applied was to soften the rubber so it would seal better. Seems to help when they are worn out and cold.

Well, it was right at 11 yrs ago I got my first drive in a B model. Bought my '59 and learned to drive a triplex on the way home. Took quite a lot of trips around town to get that figured out. Here it is on a Saturday trip to lunch with friends right after I bought it:

Well, it was starting to act up the last couple trips out. Fire truck up and it would not want to get over 30 psi. Give the motor a couple revs and it would then continue up and run fine for the trips. Was wondering what was failing. Went to get truck out of garage Sunday morning and it wouldn't get over 30 psi, period. Played with it, tapped on regulator, but to no avail. I pulled it off the firewall and pulled it apart. Seems okay, but two o-rings were not looking good(kinda flattened out). I oiled them up and tried again. Nope, not making air. Ugh. Seems maybe some heat might help(it was only 40* out). I got my little propane out and waved it over it for a few moments. Presto- it starting climbing air pressure. Whew. I was trying to get race car transfered into garage and needed the truck. I pulled it apart again this morning and am going to run up to store and get a new pair of o-rings for it. Should make it good to go for another 50 yrs?? WIth other guys having issues with theirs, I guess after 11 yrs mine had to fail. Oh well, at least I'm not stranded on the side of the road.

Yup, steering gearboxes are made so they have a "tight" spot when straight ahead. Helps keep it going straight. There is an adjustment for this. When mounting tires, place a hammer or a chunk of wood down next to the tire and roll it. Tighten the nuts and watch for runout. Adjust as needed to get it as true as possible. If you can get it closer then 1/8" runout, you're doing good. Takes finesse. I had to adjust my toe in once I got new parts. It had too little toe in and had a shake as both tires tried to steer the truck going down the road. Once I got it around 1/8" toe in, it now steers smooth at 70 mph. One finger control running down the highway. To get it really good, I rotated the tires and watched for wobble. I watched carefully and found the midpoint of each tire and marked it with chalk. I put this chalk mark at the hub point(horizontal) and measured toe in. This helped take into consideration of the wobble. Working from the "middle" makes the difference. Getting drag link on the box correctly is a good thing. Bought an old Cub Cadet tractor few years ago. It would turn fine to the right, but took the whole yard to turn left. Come to find out someone had the drag link off and had it all adjusted wrong. Once I centered the wheel and got the link adjusted properly the tractor now turns on a dime each way.

Yup, went through this last summer when I replaced my tie rod ends. I figured they be like a car (LH and RH). Wrong, they are different pitch so they change length as you turn it one way or the other. Strange way to do it, but it works.

Try Adelmans truck parts. Here in Canton, Ohio 330-456-3130 Or Phil (counterman6) at Global truck traders. Good guy to deal with. 603-239-7008 Does it have the same thread on each end? I know the B's are fine on one end, coarse on the other.

Did mine way back when Easiest king pin job ever. I was used to Ford pickup twin I beams and beat'n my brains out. I had less then 3 hrs on getting truck totally dismantled(starting at ground zero). If I recall the passenger side was the bad one. It was just the roller bearing, no damage to the spindle itself.

Sorry I'm late. My condolences to Jay and his family.