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Found 25 results

  1. I now have the new windshield gasket and my new cut glass. I did not put the fenders on yet like I was hoping, so I decided I am going to try to install the windshield. I asked at the glass shop what it would be for the install and they want more than what I paid for all the cut glass and rear window gasket. So I will give it a try. I have installed flat glass and Chevy windshields so I will take my time and keep my fingers crossed. What are your all's tips like where to start, where to put sealant etc.. Thanks in advance and I will document the install for posterity.
  2. Nice restorable B61 for auction on the 13th. No connection. She has been repowered with a 237. However, I think a BMT member should own this. A little on the high side in terms of price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1962-MACK-B61-/181983571300?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a5f10ed64:g:oywAAOSwFqJWjXKj&item=181983571300
  3. Retired a couple of years ago and have been working on a 1961 Mack B61 to get me out of wife's hair. I have reworked the wiring, replaced batteries and cables , and liquids, and got it to startup. Grandson made a video of that. The fuel pump is worn out and I have not found a replacement. It is for sale to rebuild or part out. Located in Midvale, Utah. Comes with operating and maintenence manuals. Contact Bob Allred, boballred@alpinetech.us or 801-631-6985. https://www.dropbox.com/s/yaxwli3w0w8bhde/Video%20Jun%2010%2C%2012%2015%2023%20PM.mov?dl=0 Link to see Truck start in August 2015.
  4. I picked up this B61ST mack I found in the back of an old gravel pit last year. Last fall I did a quick glance but did not look over really well, the interior was tore up with animals living in it. Had it towed home (50 miles) yesterday after I changed the rotted out steer tires. I spent the rest of the day cleaning it out and seeing what options it had to determine to use for parts for my B42 or restore. One of the local said it used to be there lowboy truck and in the late seventies early eighties they put A dump box on it to haul asphalt, but the pit was sold in 1986 or 1987 and he doesn't remember the truck running after that. I am awaiting information from the mack museum. I was a little disappointed in it having a ten speed unishift that they altered to a dash air switch, cracked frame, driverside rear between rear axles, floors rotted and fabricated for dump body. I am impressed with fenders, frame, rest of cab in being in great shape which I believe is due to not being used in winter and sprayed down with diesel fuel and transfluid twice a day so asphalt would not stick to it. I will try again today to see if I can get it started but can not get the engine to turn over. If stuck, anyone have the easy way to brake lose. there is still antifreeze in it and oil is full with no water in it or the fuel tank. I have added some pictures and will keep update on progress.
  5. Hello All, I will try to keep it short and sweet: I am from Kalispell, MT. Back in the 1950's, my Grandpa drove a log truck for the F K & L Mill here in the Flathead, Martin City, MT to be exact. I have a picture of the truck, and have a dream of locating it and bringing it back to life. Before I even try, I need to verify the model though. For a long time, I though it was a 1955 B61ST, but am now thinking it may be a B71ST. I was hoping to get help verifying this (If I can get the picture uploaded). What would even help more if if someone said, "I know that truck!"...... I am new to forums in general, but hopefully this will be the beginning to locating this truck. Thank you very much, and let me know what you guys (and gals) think! Brady Gibbons Truck belonged to Duane Byrd in the late 1950's in Martin City Montana. Duane died in 1962, so it obviously cannot be any newer than that. He had a Peterbuilt when he passed, as the Thermodyne did too well at keeping him broke, haha!
  6. Motors, Cab parts, Trans,... I don't need it all. Will know more once I get elbow deep in it.
  7. Hi all, Looking for diagrams, pictures and information on the chassis layout of a single drive B61. I am currently building one out of 2 1/2 chassis that I have and they have all been extended over the years and additional holes added. I have the positions for the rear x-member and the one that the cab sits on but I am not sure if there is another one in between. Also looking for info on how the rear spring hangers are arranged on the chassis; lots of extra holes there. I am also trying to work out which holes in the chassis I can weld up that weren't there originally. Any pictures or drawing would also be a great help. Thanks in advance.
  8. I was pointed at , flagged down, and a few thumbs up. Some thought I was going to the scrap yard , others thought I was part of the American Pickers. Made a few sales calls for the Radiator Shop ,picked up this load, called it a day at "WORK" . So talk to me about these parts , I admit I'm very green with the mack parts, I will post a bunch of pictures, shoot me reasonable offers if there is any interest, I have great shipping rates pallet or box from the (using Radiator Supply House's Discounts) and i can run Credit Cards. 541-912-2549 or Will@radiatorsupplyhouse.com I will post more pics as we unload
  9. From the album: My toys

    1965 B61, With ENDT711 engine, and a 9 speed over gear transmission. This truck started out life as a tractor in Mutrie's fleet in Waltham MA. Truck Engineering & Equipment Co, of Waltham, acquired it and converted it to a tow truck. I used to drive this in the late '70s - early '80s. Later it sold to Pilgrim auto-body in Waltham. From 2005 - 2009 it was for sale at Aran's trading in Salisbury MA.
  10. All - Came across this tonight, no connection. Apologies if it has been posted and commented on before. 237 with duplex, looks to be in very decent shape (has already been restored once per the writeup). Starting bid at $10K. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-Mack-B61-B-Model-Mack-with-Wrecker-Body/251388198413?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18472%26meid%3D2962466269164987328%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D8385%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D181268022157%26 Take care, Brad
  11. Yesterday I was coming back from a ride in my B61, and sounded like the exhaust started leaking, and I picked up a miss, was not running to hard about 2k and 50 mph, did not loose oil pressure, no leaks drove about a mile back to the house and pulled into the shop grabbed the head bolt studs and all seemed tight. I scratched my head for a minute and then started it back up, poking around the engine it sounded like the noise was coming from the front valve cover, reached down on the pump and shut the motor off went in side. This afternoon pulled the valve covers off and found a broken exhaust spring on the front cylinder, Keeping my fingers crossed that it did not drop far enough to hit the piston as the valve still moves up and down easily. Is there a place to source the head gaskets, valve springs exhaust and intake gaskets and head bolts as if I take the top apart I should change them or do I now have a boat anchor?
  12. Seen this while drinking my coffee, seeing this is like a good cup of "joe" http://www.overdriveonline.com/video-a-few-old-macks-and-a-now-famous-racing-buggy/?utm_source=custom-rigs&utm_medium=email&utm_content=08-10-2013&utm_campaign=OVD&ust_id=780f389984
  13. Hey all, Looking for the rest of my hood trim on my B-61 1 Diesel emblem (can be broken) 2 Short Trim Strips 2 Long Trim Strips Also looking for a passenger seat belt for my R model Even if you have it all or just one please let me know. I also have some stuff if you need it all five original clearance lights and lens, I have the parallel and some small odds and ends
  14. I went for a ride to my wife's work the day before yesterday and the rear pinion seal finally started puking instead of spitting up. So yesterday I changed the pinion seal on my truck so I thought I would post how to do it for posterity with pictures. The tools required- Hammer, small chisel and punch, 9/16” socket, ¾” Socket, 2 ¼” socket, diagonal side cutting pliers (dykes), small ratchet strap or rope, cleaning solution and safety glasses. Seal SKF 27452 Sleeve kit SKF 99275 1. Locate the rear axle yoke and u joint. Clean first as needed 2. Bend locking tabs back with small chisel or punch to release bolt heads that hold the u-joint caps to the rear yolk. Secure driveline with ratchet strap or rope. Carefully remove caps making sure not to lose the needle bearings from the cups. Maneuver u-joint and collapse drive shaft, move out of the way and secure 3. Remove cotter pin and nut, remove yolk 4. Remove seal housing bolts and remove, drive seal out, clean housing and replace pinion seal (coat seal with oil to prevent burn up on initial drive) On mine I had to install a speedy sleeve as the seal had worn the pinion and would not seal 5. Clean carrier face and remove old gaskets. I made a gasket for mine, if you choose to do this make sure to use gasket shellac on both sides and don’t over tighten. Reinstall and tighten bolts. 6. Reinstall yolk (I oiled outer sleeve and splines to help assist with installation) make sure to "clock" the yolk in the same position as removed to maintain driveline alignment, install nut to 400-500ft lbs ( per page 154 Mack manual dated 1960), install cotter pin. 7. Reinstall drive shaft being careful to not damage u-joint, reinstall caps and bolts, bend locking tabs up to lock bolts. <<Be careful not to over tighten>> 8. Clean up tools, check rear axle fluid level and wash rear axle and frame area if required. Since you are already dirty this would be a good time to flush and refill the rear differential. Drain plug is locate on the bottom of the housing uses a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, plug on rear axel is a 5/8" housing holds about 3.3 gallons so you will need to buy at least 4 gallons of gear oil. I use 85W -140 GL 5 extreme pressure, others use 80W-90 or 85W-90. My opinion- I would rather have the heavier oil as it keeps noise down, same viscosity when cold as the other but not thinned so much in the warm weather. As a side note read the container and make sure what ever you purchase it meets Mack specs.
  15. Its time for me to pull the broken spring pack off. What's the best way to get the non lubed pins out, they have a rubber sleeve around them and just a cotter pin on one end, I started to heat up the pin but stopped when I seen the rubber smoking, I tried to drive out but they are rusted solid. My thoughts were to torch them off then drive out the ends, but I did not want to ruin anything so I thought I should ask the experts.
  16. did some work on my tow truck today. removed the rear wheels. cut of the rear fenders. started to romove the back end of the towingdevice. it was all weldet together so i had to use a torch. but the biggest issiu is i ned more parts than i hoped to. when removing the wheels there were differend wheelclambs left and right. them my spinghangers from the rear springs are all rusted to peaces. got some photo`s i`ll try to post. hope to find the parts i need. leon
  17. Hello everyone this is a first post for me i have been here before researching a newer mack truck clutch and hi-low transmission control setup, and found good help. I am being asked to help a friend with his 1955 B61. It hasent been started in several years. it was supposed to have had the injection pump rebuilt not to long before it was left to sit for several years. We put some solvent (paint thinner, mineral spirits) in the tank and pumped it up into the injection pump to try and clean it out, get the old diesil to clear out. it wouldnt start not even smoke cough anything is why we did this. Anyway after this we put clean fresh diesil in it and tryed starting it by towing it behind another truck for a couple blocks still not even a cough or smoke. I am not a diesil mechanic but am a ase certified master tech with 30 years of experiance and have worked on a few old diesil cattipillers and managed to get them running. My question to the fourm is does anyone have any knowledge as to the best way to get this thing up and running? The truck ran before it was left to sit. It is in pretty good shape for a 1955. i am just missing something any help would be of great help to me. Thank You in advance.
  18. From the album: Hauling Steam Engines

    B61 hauling a 1916 Frick "Eclipse" steam traction engine owned by the Grease, Steam and Rust Assn. of McConnelsburg, PA.
  19. found some parts for my b61 towtruck. they were not very chaep but i liked them.
  20. hello guys. how do i remove the steeringwheel and the steeringshaft of the steeringgaer? i want to take the cab of off my parts truck,but first i have to remove the steeringwheel and shaft. going to try with some pullingdevice to pul the wheel of ,but then the shaft has to come ouy somehow. thanks for the help. mack4ever. (leon)
  21. Barry it wont let me post in the for sale section??? Built from 3 parts trucks started with a Reliable wrecking B model, used the frame from a Celli B model and a Cab that I brought home from Long Island NY Truck has a END711 (running) with a Quad box. Walking beam with 5.73 ratio Started out as a restoration but never finished it. Frame and cab were fully sandblasted and painted in 2004-05. New old stock doors and fenders bought so the sheet metal is in great shape. Interior is painted green and has a refurbished bench seat. all new glass ( vent windows need restored) will need some body work as the truck has been sitting out side. mainly just the back of the cab center and where the doors made contact with the cab channels. needs the trunion bolted back up as I was getting ready to pull it and swap in air ride. needs brake system hooked up as I removed the roto chambers to install spring brakes. new 12v starter with new alt lund visor new roof top marker lights engine has new hoses have alot of saved parts off the parts trucks to go with the truck. can be driven onto trailer. no title but can get a salvage title if it helps. Located in Volo IL $4500 OBO Trent 847 738 8569
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