Freightrain

Ok, fill in the un-edumicated about loosing a piston. Common to these for some reason? Do I recall something about a 2 pc piston or am I off on a tangent someplace? Just curious.

Well, the last trip out this past weekend was a good one. The truck ran flawless and seems like it has a bit more Umph. Fuel pressure never dropped and I ran the drivers tank down to 1/2 tank or so. If there was an issue with the pickup tube I would have expected to see an issue. So I'm thinking either the pump was bad or the filters were that clogged up(even if they looked okay). My buddy says he was surprised at how well it ran the hills and we ran 70 mph without breaking a sweat. I actually passed a line of traffic going up a pretty good grade running 70+ mph and still accelerating. I even turned to Karen and commented to her about how well it was running. I got a reman Mack pump for it today. I put it on tonight and fired it up. Still only about 15# at idle. I can slowly rev it up and it would randomly slide up to 20# or so. Not every time but a bit more then I could ever get out of the other two pumps. Still think there is something else that is messing with it. The return line check valve? I haven't been able to unscrew it yet, but now that I don't need the truck I might get a bit more persuasive with a bigger wrench.

Looks like a really, really cool place to visit. Just need time to run down there.

I'll check with him. Thanks.

What a tragedy. My condolences. http://cbs6albany.com/news/local/tow-truck-driver-hit-and-killed-near-exit-29-of-nys-thruway

Talked to local Mack dealer. I need to use the serial number I got from a member to chase down the right pump. Easy enough. I also think I traced down my surging idle issue. The last trip it was getting really bad and by the time I got home it really had to play with the throttle to get it down to idle. I looked at it tonight and think it was my hand throttle bracket was getting in the way of my linkage and holding it above idle. With the playing I've done with the linkage it was getting very close to the bracket and I the bracket was just slightly rubbing the linkage and holding it. I cut the bracket and redirected it to eliminate that problem. I started the truck and it works fine now. No fluctuation at all. Just a steady idle speed. I have one more trip this weekend and then I'm done for the season. I'm going to run the fuel down low so I can transfer from one tank to another so I can empty them and check the suction tube. I really want to replace the tanks but that might have to wait for another year.

Holey crapola. What a deal. Sometimes you are at the right spot at the right time. Nice job!

Well it's all there, just coming apart. I guess a good shop could resurrect it and make a pattern to something else and cover it? Not sure I would try to reuse it and cover it.

AH, I see. Interesting.

Mine was replaced some time in it's life. The threads in the seams are coming loose and it is falling on my head. The cardboard is also brittle.

Anyone know someone that has the pattern for a black pleated/diamond headliner for B model cab? My original headliner is falling apart at the seams, literally and I don't want the beige anymore. I want to make matching door panels.

Twin snorkel air cleaner? Would think that would be tip turbine?

Nice! What for powerplant? 285/300?

Great work. I get SOOO jealous when I see shiny new parts going together!!

This is my typical day at work> Making drawings of broken parts so we can make them new. Nothing that unique about that casting that shouldn't take but a few minutes with a set of calipers to make a drawing. I hope you get it taken care of.

So does anyone know the real part number for a fuel pump? Should I just hit the dealer with my IJ pump number and go from there? Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/E6-Fuel-Supply-Pump-2-Valve-PAI-P-N-ESP-3598-Ref-Mack-314GC227-Bosch-0440008015-/262616166868?hash=item3d2524b1d4:g:3N8AAOSwEK9T37NI&vxp=mtr Mine has the old school hand pump on it and looks more like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mack-E6-Fuel-Supply-Pump-w-Primer-PAI-EPA-3587-Ref-319GC110-Ambac-SPA22B6363A-/252530193697?hash=item3acbf8f521:g:s4IAAOSwZjJU9M2T&vxp=mtr

LOL!!! You're leaving yourself WIDE open to a real smart alec comment on that statement!!!!! My friend had a FL120 toter and don't recall seeing a shut off? Maybe I never looked hard enough.

I have an old version of the Cole Hearse shut off. I've never used it as the connection points are tiny and my big cable ends would never fit it. Like I said, in all the years I've never put a charger on mine for the winter and the only time I've unhooked the batteries was when I lengthened the frame and had the battery box off the truck. I used to have 4 batteries, but only run 2 now with no issue. Mine does sit inside a lightly heated garage all winter though.

Two screws and the plates move from vehicle to vehicle pretty easily............LOL!

Yup, he never opened the hood. I don't recall exactly what all he does with the truck but I know he seems to get around with it. I was parked directly to the left of him, as he was in the isle and I was in the grass on the corner next to the ATHS forum tent with Eddy Lucast and Peter J Crook.

I used POR 15 on my new frame section. I had it shot blasted to clean, bare metal by a local company(thus the wheels and trailer hitch). I then slopped it on with a brush. I didn't cover it with anything so it is faded now. BUT, you can't chip it with a sledgehammer. Granted it doesn't see winter, but you do have to prep the metal properly for it to bite into. Few years back I had an Escort wagon for a daily driver. It had a few surface scratches and they would rust. I would sand it down and smear a bit of POR 15 on it. Yup, few months later it would peel off like an onion skin. It is all in the prep work.

Yup, that's it.

I've survived 14 yrs with no shut off or maintainer on my B. Don't know how? Ya, the typical battery shut off switch would likely do the trick. I would suggest getting the largest amp rated version you could find. These are typically for only one battery and once you get 3-4 batteries the current draw could burn it up over time if the contacts aren't large enough to carry it. Maybe get a pair of switches and break the batteries up into pairs? The maintainer? Any 1-2 amp trickle charger would work, but you would have to watch as if you have one bad battery in the bunch it will never charge all of them. I run one on my pair of deep cycles in my race trailer. Been near 20 yrs without issue. Do have to keep an eye on them as occasionally one battery might get low and it will drag the other one down. I separate them, charge them each up and then hook them back together. How I found out was the "charge" light was never coming on like it use to. Once I charged both up, the "charge" light comes on after a few hours of being plugged in.

Where's the pics of the Red/black LTL from Texas with a 600 KT in it? Smith is the name? Met him at South Bend.

Jack the front end up, grab a tire and see how loose the pins are. Could be just spindle bearings too. Then work your way back to the steering box. I recommend a block of wood and long bar to pry up/test the tie rod ends. Don't try it with just your hands like a car, you won't move it enough. Ask me how I found that one out?