Freightrain

I can watch those movies, over and over and over........ And NO, I'm not kidding, Shirley.

Okay, thanks guys. I didn't think he would give me the wrong ones, but was curious before I put them on. They have always been $8 at the dealership. That's a hell of a bargain in my eyes.

21939324 was number I used on 673. This filter is 21939298. Both are listed as full flow. You cant beat $8 each at Mack. An fl1a for my cars is near that and 1/3 the size.

Ok, I was at local dealer getting o-rings for filter housing that started leaking. I asked for 2 filters and he handed me these. It is not the same part number I used to run on set up I ran on 673 spin on. Is there different variations?

When I put the air steering on my B, my wheel was out of whack and I couldn't two hand shift it because the spoke was in the way. Loosen nut, put knees under the wheel and push up. Take a whack at the shaft(or use an air hammer like me). Presto, wheel comes off.

I remember my test. The girl testing must have liked me?? Told me I only had to do ONE side of the truck on the pre-trip. "The other side is just a duplicate". Well, okay then. I had like 15 extra minutes in the cab to chat as the timer ran out. I forget what the time limit is? It is one of those nerve racking tests, for sure. Once done, you realize it isn't all that bad. I rented their truck so it was much easier on me to not worry about if the truck would pass pre trip.

No, I already have a 60 gal and with only a single stage pump it takes too much to fill that. I should have stepped up to a two stage pump. Oh well, it works well enough for what I do.

Two weeks and still 80#. Got an alum tank coming though.......

Price? What's all included on the Mack stuff? Valve cover spacer? Turbo spacer?

Potatoe, potato? Soda or Pop?

Likely a 392. Yowza, I bet that is THIRSTY!!!! My 345 in my '72 pickup was bad enough, can't imagine with that truck.

Friend had one with a NTC in it. Was an old ANR truck, with the red/blue stripe through the middle. Short single axle, he put a dump bed on it.

http://www.firestoneracing.com/articles/indynews/2017/2/02-20-Penske-Blue-Hilton

Wow...wonder what it has for power? Gaspot(392 or maybe a V6) or Diesel? I think they offered diesels in those but it would be a small one, cummins? I like how they are restoring all these old transporters. Like the drag teams versions too. Love to have something like that for my rig, but I'd miss my living quarters.

Coming together pretty nice.

Going on a week, still 80# in it. I looked at my valve and it is a bolt on style only. I can't use it on a threaded fitting style tank. I thought the valve was screwed onto the mount. Nope, one piece.

Welcome to the forums. This gets hashed out regularly with individuals trying to use "antique" equipment and not have to jump through the hoops of what it takes "commercially". Is this going to be "business" equipment like making money kind of thing? Or going to shows with your toys?

No, both mine are just metal tanks. Nothing inside. The flange just makes for a nice sealing surface and a solid mount for the valve. It's a four bolt pattern with split collar, typically I've seen for hydraulic hoses.

My new doors have a very noticeable dimple, like Willies. That is why I was asking what they used from the factory. It would take a decent primer coat to fill them level. I agree on the Fluid film. Keeps moisture from tearing into the seams. I do my daily drivers twice a year with Fluid film.

Well mine comes in about 26", using a level across the top and measuring down to the floor. So yours would fit my brackets. I forgot to look at my control valve and if I could convert it to thread on. I'll check that this weekend. BTW, still at 80# today.

I'll check mine tonight and see what the actual diameter is. I see the one has a threaded bung? Is that air to the solenoid/starter? Mine has a bolt on flange fitting. Maybe that is how they do the aluminum tanks?

3 days and still holding 80#.

Hmmm, I've got a set of factory bare NOS door shells. I have wondered what they filled the spot welds with? Just paint? Or some kind of filler? I've never got them painted and put on my truck, yet. Too nice actually for my rust bucket. I have one nice extra passenger door that I was going to strip and use instead at some point.

So far this morning, still has 80# in it. Didn't drop overnight, I'm leaving it til the weekend. Looks like a keeper. I'd really like an alum tank, but getting it to Ohio? I wonder if the OD is the same as my steel tank, so it would work in my brackets? Al: It won't be polished like that per say(until I get it-they don't offer polishing on sq tanks), but I gave them a full drawing of my stock tank and they are going off it. Their picture on the website was a near perfect match. I wanted round tanks, like a B tank, but they don't offer a step in it like original. I was going to fudge it with a smaller tank and use std strap steps like I've seen on a few B models. Looks okay. Then I started to add up the price of everything and I decided to stay with square tanks. I got some money burning a hole in my pocket, just not THAT much! BTW, my steel tanks are pretty bad shape. The drivers side is leaking again, I've patched them both up a few times in the last 15 yrs. It's time to upgrade. I asked them if they would make the main body out of diamond plate so it would match my genset box and rear fenders. They said they couldn't do it. I thought one of the old High Point trucks had diamond plate tanks on it and it looked nice.

Well, I took the control valve off the orange tank and installed it on the other tank. I installed a pressure gauge in one of the other fittings in the tank. I filled it up to about 80# of pressure and marked the gauge with a sharpie. We will see if tomorrow where the pressure is. I did not plug the inlet side of the valve, I'm relying solely on the check valve to see if it is up to snuff.