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tom1361

Puppy Poster
  • Content Count

    32
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  • Last visited

Community Reputation

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About tom1361

  • Rank
    Truck Nut
  • Birthday 06/18/1966

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    tomvanbuskirk@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Thornhurst, Pa.
  • Interests
    Mack Trucks, Model Railroading, The Pennsylvania Railroad, Hit and Miss Engines, Old Ford 'N' Tractors and the Ford Mustang.

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    B67 R795
  • Year
    1962 1971
  • Other Trucks
    1971 Mack R795ST

Recent Profile Visitors

1,670 profile views
  1. Hi Dave, $114.86 was the total for everything. nice people to deal with.
  2. Hi Dave, Did you try Air Brake in Moosic on RT.11 by RT.502? They have been a great help on my B67 project. They did a nice job on my rear brake reline. Told me when the time came to do the clutch they could take care of that also. Can you give me the name of the man who helped you at Diesel Power? I'm having a problem with the V8 in my R795 lurching badly if your not completely on the fuel or totally off the fuel. There's no in between. Had a guy at the Harford show tell me it sounded like a governor problem?
  3. H67ST , Thank you. Williamsport is just an hour ride for me across rt.80. I'll give them a call. JoeH, Thank you for your reply. I'll get a picture of what the pump looks like. Although I believe the only pump used on that engine was the AMBAC APE mini V8 design. I've been driving mostly Macks for 32 years now. I've never had a truck do this in the past this bad. If you're not completely on the fuel or totally off the fuel it bucks like a bronco.
  4. Hello All, I have a 1971 R795ST with the ENDT 865 V8 engine. I'm having a problem with the truck lurching wildy when I'm not totally off the fuel or complete on the fuel. I can't simply maintain say 25 or 35 mph without the truck lurching. If I try backing off the fuel then easing back into it the truck will start lurching again. It dose the same thing if I floor it then back off and try to maintain speed. The linkage and pedal are in good shape, all fittings are not loose fitting nor are they overly tight. I was told at a truck show 2 weeks ago that it sounds like an issue with the governor? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You, Tom VB.
  5. hello, where can i find the part numbers for the steering knuckles on a 1962 b67 with a 505 axle. i removed the 3 screws and popped off the kingpin cap on top of the knuckles. the number i found does not come up on my build sheet nor does mack have it in their database. looking for some suggestions. thanks.
  6. hello everyone, i know this discussion has taken place many times before. i have read most of the previous posts. i am trying to get the proper kingpins for my 62 b 67 with the fa505 axle. i called transedge mack in allentown and gave them the 1qha # and they came back with 301sq32c. now that number is what's on my build sheet from mack. however 32c reverts back to the 301sq32b and that's no longer services from mack. that's all well and fine, now i go to the aftermarket. most of us know the aftermarket pins are coming up short at 6.69 inches and use the fancy roller bushings. my pins are coming in at 7 5/16 or 7.31 inches. now the moog [#8592b] kit says it fits or replaces the mack numbers:::: 301sq32b , 301sq45a and 301sw45a however they are just like all other aftermarket kits with the seals and short pins. i took a look at my ts 442 manual dated 10/67 i got from mack and in section 9 page 11 it shows type 1, 2 ,3 and 4 steering knuckles. the type 3 knuckle [the one i have] changed at some point in time. the first diagram [figure 9-9] shows the knuckle i have with standard bushings and no seals. the next diagram [9-10] clearly shows the newer type knuckle with the roller bushings and seals. what year was this knuckle first used?? has anyone attempted to use the aftermarket pin kits?? i'm assuming that it can't be done since the pins are to short?? if anyone has i'd like to know how it worked out. where might i be able to get the correct pins from other then a machine shop? my last question is where is the stamped part number on the steering knuckles?? the number stamped under the pin cap is not the correct number [4qh 476 dp4] mack ran it for me and it didn't come up. thanks for your help. tom vb.
  7. i'll do that over the weekend and see how things work out. thank you for your help!!
  8. hi, the number on the steering axle is 1QHA 321 AP 3. that number matches the number on the build sheet. i'll scan the sheet and post it later today. thank you. tomvb.
  9. yes i do have a build sheet. the numbers on the sheet are as follows....cross steering tube 7QH 223 P 5....cross steer socket large 12AC 115A....cross steer socket small 12AC 114.
  10. hello everyone, i'm looking for the part number from the tie rod end and the tie rod steering tube. the truck is a 1962 b 67 fa505 front axle. i stripped the steering tube down to virgin metal today and i cannot find any number? any help would be appreciated. thank you. tomvb.
  11. thank you for your help. that's simple enough. i'll take care of it today.
  12. i don't have over sized drums. i have standard brand new drums that i bought from allentown mack. [trans edge]. i'm guessing that means i can remove it and re torque the linings? if so what is the proper way to do so?
  13. hello everyone, went to put my spokes and drums on today and they won't go on. they hang up on the new linings. brake cans and slack adjusters aren't on yet. s cams are sitting nice and flat as well as the wear pads on the shoes. my first question is why would the rebuilder put one layer of roofing paper [tar paper] under the shoe? now if i take the linings off and remove that paper the drums will slide on nicely. second question is when and if i remove the linings is there a proper way to put them back on, ie:: tightening sequence and torque specs?? i would be thankful for any help..... tom vb.
  14. hello everyone, looking for some input on rear wheel bearing seal choices. i took everything apart this past weekend and much to my surprise the truck had to different seals. i was told by cooks brothers here in northeast pa. that both type seals would work just fine. i was just wondering if the green seal would be better in any way because it's taller? oh , and yes the seal section has been ripped out of the green one that's why the hole looks larger. secondly, what is the proper way to preload the bearings and the torque specs for the axle nuts for this set up? 1962 b67 single axle ......rad 512 rear .....4 1/8 axle nuts ....16.50 x 7 inch brakes. i appreciate any suggestions. thanks, tomvb.
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