tom1361

Good day everyone. I'm installing my new steering box in my R model tomorrow. It's a 1971 R795. It's a Ross integral power steering box. My question concerns the steering stops. The stops appear to be turned all the way in. Do the stops need to be adjusted at all before I do the poppet valve adjustment or just leave them be?? Before I had the box rebuild I had plenty of clearance between the frame and other components nothing rubbed or was even close to the tires. My TS442 manual states 1/8 gap between the stops before the power assist cuts out. The installation instructions state this also. Do I get that 1/8 inch from the poppet adjustment or do I first adjust the stops themselves then the poppet adjusters? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and have a great day. Tom VB.

Hello, I'm looking for torque specs for the mounting bolts on my steering box. The 4 bolts that mount the plate to the box are 3/4 inch diameter. There are 5 bolts that mount the plate to the frame. The 2 long 3/4 inch diameter bolts that go through the frame and plate are a nut and bolt set up. Then there are three 1/2 inch diameter bolts that go through the frame and bolt directly to the mounting plate. My TS 442 manual does not have specific torque specs for any of these bolts. The only set in stone torque spec is for the pinch bolt. The rest of the bolts are general torque specs form a table in section 1 and 2 of the manual for grade 5 or 8 3/4 or 1/2 inch diameter bolts. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. Tom VB.

Hi Dave, $114.86 was the total for everything. nice people to deal with.

Hi Dave, Did you try Air Brake in Moosic on RT.11 by RT.502? They have been a great help on my B67 project. They did a nice job on my rear brake reline. Told me when the time came to do the clutch they could take care of that also. Can you give me the name of the man who helped you at Diesel Power? I'm having a problem with the V8 in my R795 lurching badly if your not completely on the fuel or totally off the fuel. There's no in between. Had a guy at the Harford show tell me it sounded like a governor problem?

H67ST , Thank you. Williamsport is just an hour ride for me across rt.80. I'll give them a call. JoeH, Thank you for your reply. I'll get a picture of what the pump looks like. Although I believe the only pump used on that engine was the AMBAC APE mini V8 design. I've been driving mostly Macks for 32 years now. I've never had a truck do this in the past this bad. If you're not completely on the fuel or totally off the fuel it bucks like a bronco.

Hello All, I have a 1971 R795ST with the ENDT 865 V8 engine. I'm having a problem with the truck lurching wildy when I'm not totally off the fuel or complete on the fuel. I can't simply maintain say 25 or 35 mph without the truck lurching. If I try backing off the fuel then easing back into it the truck will start lurching again. It dose the same thing if I floor it then back off and try to maintain speed. The linkage and pedal are in good shape, all fittings are not loose fitting nor are they overly tight. I was told at a truck show 2 weeks ago that it sounds like an issue with the governor? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You, Tom VB.

hello, where can i find the part numbers for the steering knuckles on a 1962 b67 with a 505 axle. i removed the 3 screws and popped off the kingpin cap on top of the knuckles. the number i found does not come up on my build sheet nor does mack have it in their database. looking for some suggestions. thanks.

hello everyone, i know this discussion has taken place many times before. i have read most of the previous posts. i am trying to get the proper kingpins for my 62 b 67 with the fa505 axle. i called transedge mack in allentown and gave them the 1qha # and they came back with 301sq32c. now that number is what's on my build sheet from mack. however 32c reverts back to the 301sq32b and that's no longer services from mack. that's all well and fine, now i go to the aftermarket. most of us know the aftermarket pins are coming up short at 6.69 inches and use the fancy roller bushings. my pins are coming in at 7 5/16 or 7.31 inches. now the moog [#8592b] kit says it fits or replaces the mack numbers:::: 301sq32b , 301sq45a and 301sw45a however they are just like all other aftermarket kits with the seals and short pins. i took a look at my ts 442 manual dated 10/67 i got from mack and in section 9 page 11 it shows type 1, 2 ,3 and 4 steering knuckles. the type 3 knuckle [the one i have] changed at some point in time. the first diagram [figure 9-9] shows the knuckle i have with standard bushings and no seals. the next diagram [9-10] clearly shows the newer type knuckle with the roller bushings and seals. what year was this knuckle first used?? has anyone attempted to use the aftermarket pin kits?? i'm assuming that it can't be done since the pins are to short?? if anyone has i'd like to know how it worked out. where might i be able to get the correct pins from other then a machine shop? my last question is where is the stamped part number on the steering knuckles?? the number stamped under the pin cap is not the correct number [4qh 476 dp4] mack ran it for me and it didn't come up. thanks for your help. tom vb.

i'll do that over the weekend and see how things work out. thank you for your help!!

build sheet page with axle and steering info.

hi, the number on the steering axle is 1QHA 321 AP 3. that number matches the number on the build sheet. i'll scan the sheet and post it later today. thank you. tomvb.

yes i do have a build sheet. the numbers on the sheet are as follows....cross steering tube 7QH 223 P 5....cross steer socket large 12AC 115A....cross steer socket small 12AC 114.

hello everyone, i'm looking for the part number from the tie rod end and the tie rod steering tube. the truck is a 1962 b 67 fa505 front axle. i stripped the steering tube down to virgin metal today and i cannot find any number? any help would be appreciated. thank you. tomvb.

thank you for your help. that's simple enough. i'll take care of it today.

i don't have over sized drums. i have standard brand new drums that i bought from allentown mack. [trans edge]. i'm guessing that means i can remove it and re torque the linings? if so what is the proper way to do so?

hello everyone, went to put my spokes and drums on today and they won't go on. they hang up on the new linings. brake cans and slack adjusters aren't on yet. s cams are sitting nice and flat as well as the wear pads on the shoes. my first question is why would the rebuilder put one layer of roofing paper [tar paper] under the shoe? now if i take the linings off and remove that paper the drums will slide on nicely. second question is when and if i remove the linings is there a proper way to put them back on, ie:: tightening sequence and torque specs?? i would be thankful for any help..... tom vb.

hello everyone, looking for some input on rear wheel bearing seal choices. i took everything apart this past weekend and much to my surprise the truck had to different seals. i was told by cooks brothers here in northeast pa. that both type seals would work just fine. i was just wondering if the green seal would be better in any way because it's taller? oh , and yes the seal section has been ripped out of the green one that's why the hole looks larger. secondly, what is the proper way to preload the bearings and the torque specs for the axle nuts for this set up? 1962 b67 single axle ......rad 512 rear .....4 1/8 axle nuts ....16.50 x 7 inch brakes. i appreciate any suggestions. thanks, tomvb.

thank you for the help!

getting ready to put the back end of the b 67 back together. i have contacted the mack museum but didn't get all the info i needed. i'm in need of some torque specs for the following.........battery box to frame bolts, air starter mounting brackets to frame bolts, u joint cap bolts[ 1700 series], brake canister hanger to rear housing bolts, rear spring hanger to frame bolts, rear spring hanger pinch bolts, brake drum to spoke bolts, rear lug nuts, axle nuts and the last bolt is the rear brake shoe pin keeper bolt. lastly , what is the proper way to set the wheel bearing preload? some say torque to 200 ft. lbs. while spinning the wheel both ways then back off then re torque to 50 ft. lbs?? any information would be helpful. thanks, tomvb.

this is the one and only air tank for the brake system. it is mounted at the very rear of the frame just like many other b models out there. the only other air tank on my truck is for the air starter.

hello everyone, i have 2 air tanks to choose from to paint and mount on the rear of my b 67. my question to everyone is what tank is best, the split style tank or the non split tank. the truck came with the non split style tank. the truck has an air starter tank on the right side if that makes a difference in deciding what small tank is best. what are the pros and cons of each tank if any? any help would be appreciated. thank you, tomvb.

hello folks, got what i need from air brake in moosic, pa. that's really the name of the shop....air brake. they had them for me in 2 days. euclid brand. thanks, to everyone for the help.

Hello All, Are the wear plates still available for the old pinned style Mack brake shoes [#6QDA 120]? The picture shows the plates are worn out. If the plates are not available can I press out the 2 pins and cut new plates out of standard 1/4 inch flat plate or are they made from heat treated steel?? Thank for the help. Tom Vb.

thank you. i'm going to stay with the old pinned set up. i found a place in new york city today that has new pins, bushings and all of the other hardware i need to rebuild the rear brakes. again thank you.

hello all, looking to convert my 1962 b 67 rear brakes over to something more modern. will the rear spiders from a tandem axle rd mack work on my b 67 or will i need to find them off of another single axle mack?? the bolt spacing is 3.25 inches on both trucks center to center for the mounting bolts. i'm not to sure if the later spiders will give a different "offset" to the positioning of the brake shoes. any opinions are appreciated. thank you.