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Hydraulic clutch??


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been working on the clutch linkage for almost 2 weeks now and still no success (but I AM getting closer). I'm putting a TRXL 107 (6 Spd) in my B61. The problem is that he B61 came with a push clutch and the 107 has a pull clutch. I want to stay with the pull clutch so I have a clutch brake but this means I have to reverse the rotation of the shaft so the pedal rotates it's shaft counter clockwise and I need to translate that in to clockwise for the clutch fork. I have tried a few different ideas and my last one almost worked but my geometry was..............not so good and it would;d take Swartzenegger in his prime to disengage the clutch. I can shorten the lever off the pedal about an inch but I don't know how much that will gain me. I/m sure I can reduce the force required at the pedal quite a bit by manipulating the length of each lever but, as near as I can figure, each time I do that, I lose some stroke at the clutch fork and may not have enough pedal travel to compensate. SO, before continuing on my current path, I was thinking that perhaps a hydraulic clutch would be easier and solve all my issues but I have never seen one in a class 8 truck before so I don't know if such a thing is even available and even if it IS, I want to maintain the stock B61 pedal rather than going to one that hangs from under the dash. Any insight regarding getting my stock B61 pedal to actuate the pull clutch would be appreciated. 

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I did what you are wanting to do but it was 4 years ago so my remerory is foggy  Think I rotated clutch pedal shaft 180 degrees and cut a new keyway in shaft. Rod runs from that to a pivot point on fuel tank bracket. Then another rod runs from pivot point to release bearing arm. I made provisions for lots of adjustments and different attachment points for rod clevises. After 2 days of experimenting with all that, you can depress the clutch with big toe ( perfect for asphalt grinding) and the whole mess working great. If you want to PM me with phone, I can send some pictures to clear up my fuzzy explanation.       

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I cut down an R model clutch pedal bracket to use the 4 studs and used the clutch cable bracket on the outside, heated the pedal to bend it up to have clearance on the floor then bolted a little bracket from the bottom  of the dash to the bracket to keep the bracket from moving. I have done 2 and they work great. 

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Seems like I have seen the "reverse the arm" thing done before.

If you can work in a cable setup, like 63BMack is talking about, I think you'll be very happy with the results.

My '70 R had the cable setup on the pull clutch, and it was the easiest clutch I ever drove or adjusted.

Be interested to see what you come up with.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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Tom Gannaway did a conversion on his wrecker to get a pull clutch for his eaton 10 spd.  Used the existing pedal and such and then somehow reversed it on the frame.  He told me how, but it's been a year ago?

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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13 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Tom Gannaway did a conversion on his wrecker to get a pull clutch for his eaton 10 spd.  Used the existing pedal and such and then somehow reversed it on the frame.  He told me how, but it's been a year ago?

I think that draggon wagon that posted up above is that Tom,    terry:MackLogo:

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Thanks to all that have responded so far. hoping to get some pics so I can see what needs to be done. I don't follow written instruction well. In the mean time I am working on the driver side air cleaner. I can't believe how many inconsistencies there are between the 3 trucks that I have, even the 2 from the same year (1959). Nobody said this would be easy and if it as, everybody would do it I suppose. 😊

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About 1960 (+/-) our school bus contractor had a pusher school bus with a straight air clutch in it, with a foot valve identical to the brake pedal.. This was before spring lock parking brakes, just DO NOT park it in gear or you were going to run over something before you built up air enough to the release the clutch!!!!!!

Brocky

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Cody, I looked up your site for pics of your B model work. Very interesting for sure. you might post the address on here for this group to see. Great visit other night! From looks of your work, the clutch linkage will be a piece of cake, just get it to where big toe will push pedal down.  Keep us posted on progress and thanks for sending your serial numbers. 

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Just for the insight I owned a cabover white it had an air operated clutch it was very thought provoking in use. Never Ever leave the trans. in gear and try to start the thing and very little clutch feel like you get from a linkage clutch. I DID Not like the setup that same truck had an air operated shifter that I threw out and put a regular 10 speed shift leaver assm. back on. That was almost about 40 years ago and thats what I remember. We would take a pair of vice grips and squeeze the return line a little bit on the external cummins fuel line. If you got carried away the thing would load up on the fuel and start to run away if you let it set and idle to long. I would bring back their nice white trailers and the right side was just black from that old 220 cummins. I'm glad I didn't have to clean the trailer. 

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  • 7 months later...

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