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Mack MBR600 Australia


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20201103_195011.thumb.jpg.522ede2a4b0ae4e4d02e9ee4a8554e22.jpgGday guys and Gals

I have a few questions for all you MACK enthusiasts out there. My father and I bought an MACK MBR600 twin steer cab over tipper to cart grain around our properties in Central west NSW Australia. We have been unable to find ANY information on this truck or its lineage? Its an air start diesel with a 9 speed Road Ranger gearbox. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Cheers

Edited by AussieMack1988
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Not many convert to electric start in Australia but it has been done and is a pretty simple procedure I feel

Dunno about online manuals but there is usually plenty of manuals, reproduction or original on line for sale

Photos of the motor and the plate on the motor should be able to tell you all you need to know 

The chassis number is used for id in Australia on the older Macks like this even though most Mack dealers ask for the vin number they will soon go "it doesn't work" 

So the chassis number is stamped behind the leading drive wheel drivers side on Australia 

 

Paul

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Ring the Phone Number on this Page...

https://www.macktrucks.com.au/parts-and-services/support/gvm-gcm-upgrade-letter/

 

Make sure you have all the Numbers of the Plate inside the Cab. The Most Important one seem to be the M.S.R. (Mack Stock report) Number.

 I haven't done one for a fair While, But I have always found the Blokes who answer that Phone Number to be Approachable & helpful.. 

 

Is that Blue the Original Paint?

"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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Ok guys thanks so much for all your help! I am going to start getting the old girl harvest ready tomorrow. She hasn't started in 6 months so it's going to take some coaxing into life. Sadly it's a pretty rough old truck but tough. Eaton 9 speed is a great box to learn on! 😄 more photos tomorrow...please go easy on the judgement on the trucks condition. We bought it as a paddock truck! 

Edited by AussieMack1988
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If still the original Mack motor it shouldnt take much to bring to life.

Due to air start, I would maybe pump the fuel primer and make sure its ready to fire.  If it leaked down for some reason, pumping it up will help get it started quicker.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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The same truck model in the US would be called MB. Your mark MBR means it's a MB built using R-model chassis as the most every Mack truck built in Australia was. So actually I expect finding a typical R-model chassis with typical (one of) in-line 6 cyl Mack engine (if it's a Mack engine) with a MB-model cab fitted on. I doubt it would be easy to find info on the particular model (but too possibly if someone in your country has a manual) but quite easy to find info on R-model chassis components and Mack engine. I'm pretty sure if you post some basic views of the engine and the chassis a lot of members on the forum would determine their kind and narrow down the search on the info sources.

Vlad

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Would they equate to N70Z batteries dimension wise? The reason for the battery/ starter question is because we often don't have a compressor where we are. On a side note, I started the old girl today..bit of aero start and lots of air and off she chugged!! Now the air leaks/no brakes working/hi lo selector not working to solve! A few months before harvest...so I have a little time but any suggestions hints or tips are welcome!

Cheers

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I'd just use 3-4 N70 Batteries, they're as Common as ars   Bellybuttons here in Australia..

Aussiemack, Back in the day EVERY Mack was Air start & they all carried a big long Air Hose with a Tyre Chuck one end use the Air in Your Tyres to charge the Start Tank..

Assuming all your Tyres have 100psi in them & the Air Tank equalises with the Tyre.

1st tyre give you 50 psi

2nd gives you 75psi.

3rd gives 87.5 psi which will(should) be enough to start the Old Girl

then turn around & pump You tyres back Up..

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"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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46 minutes ago, Brocky said:

Vlad and Aussie Mack:

Are you sure the last R in the model number refers to the R model chassis or to the Down Under right hand drive???????

Brocky, I belive so. We discussed the frame matter a few times and the turn out was every Mack built in Australia (and probably in NZ too but I'm not sure at the moment) used Eastern R-model frame rails. It is easy to see on pics with the bonnets/hoods open. R-model has quite distinguishing shape of the front portion of the rails so easy to recognize. As long as I remember Superliners used heavier (taller) R700 rails. I have no idea on were standart R-600 (9 inch) rails took place but seems too possibly. Pics show R's, RW, Valueliners both in-line and V8 and also F-models utilized those rails. Adding the point Aussie F-models were marked FR the matter gets a look of making sence.

I should admit though all that doesn't relate to Renault-generic Macks. Definitly Aussie Mack Magnums used European wheels what means European hubs. So I'm about almost sure Magnums were complete Renault chassis/cabs.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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10 hours ago, AussieMack1988 said:

Would they equate to N70Z batteries dimension wise? The reason for the battery/ starter question is because we often don't have a compressor where we are. On a side note, I started the old girl today..bit of aero start and lots of air and off she chugged!! Now the air leaks/no brakes working/hi lo selector not working to solve! A few months before harvest...so I have a little time but any suggestions hints or tips are welcome!

Cheers

When I just need to start one of my Mack trucks, after long time in the most cases, it's enough to attach two 75-90 Ah batteries. It works for warm temps and for in-line engines, I just don't have any trucks with V8. You can spin electric starter for a total of couple of minutes before they show low down. Sure if you're going to use the truck for work it's better to put larger batteries.

The air issues usually go off after finding and plumbing air leaks. But if they wouldn't you're in a need of investigation of the air brake components. Mostly valves and air line lay out. If you didn't do that work before it may require a bit of education. Once I got in such situation I googled "truck air brakes" and found a lot of articles with detailed description of the whole system operation and each valve design. Spent a couple of evenings reading and than figured the matter of the issues in less than a coule of hours. Had a few valves revised (freed up/cleaned) and a few air lines to swap.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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9 hours ago, Brocky said:

Vlad and Aussie Mack:

Are you sure the last R in the model number refers to the R model chassis or to the Down Under right hand drive???????

Vlad is correct Brocky..Mack Australia used the R Model chassis for everything..

 

8 hours ago, Vladislav said:

I should admit though all that doesn't relate to Renault-generic Macks. Definitly Aussie Mack Magnums used European wheels what means European hubs. So I'm about almost sure Magnums were complete Renault chassis/cabs.

Vlad, I own one of those COE Magnums. They came into the country as Glider Kits. Cab, Chassis & Front Axle.& were fitted with the entire Drivetrain Here. It has the euro 335pcd Wheels all round..

 

The Quantums were a little bit Different. The early Ones came in as Glider Kits, & were quite problematic. the Later ones were CH Chassis fitted with the Quantum Cab, & where a far better Truck by All accounts..

Pretty sure there's a Thread (or 2-3) here about them..

"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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