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Evaluating a `62 B61 w/END 673 engine


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I`m gonna look at one this week,could use some advice from an expert...what do you look for and/or listen for when you assess a truck you might buy.Any red flags that a newbie wouldn`t catch?I realize a comprehensive answer could fill a book,any and all advice is much appreciated.

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sheet metal...all rust free,,thats almost impossible,,most moldings there,,,,,most important,,,,engine runs ,,,no blue smoke and no antifreeze in the oil....descent tires....good luck...bob

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Pretty hard to answer such a vague question, are you going to look at a restored truck,barn find,work truck,project,??????,different things to look at depending on what you are looking for. Kinda like asking what somethings worth without providing pics 

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I have to agree with Mike, kind of a vague question. Give some specifics and pictures would be a big help for some honest advice. There’s always some key areas to lot at, but you need a reference point to start with.

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Looks decent.  Not sure what you are willing to pay for it, but a lot of it is just looking at everything carefully.  Motor should have 50+ psi oil cold.  They start very easy, so if it cranks a lot there is issues.  Minimal blue when cold.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Look at the lower back wall of the cab exterior. They’re prone to rust there. Any seams, rain gutters, door sills, fender edges where the bolt together. Signs and quality of any bodywork. Floor pans, especially the driver’s foot area. Frame for any signs of separation. From the eBay pics it looked pretty good. If all that stuff has been done do it, then it comes to what you’re willing to pay. Bring someone with you that’s at least a little knowledgeable on trucks. Try not to get in over your head or capabilities ( read money and skill level).

Good Luck, Matt

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1 hour ago, skydawg said:

,buying a bondo special that look ok for a couple of years,then all hell breaks loose.

That's one of the reasons people order restoration or do the job themself. And also a reason buying a ready vehicle is in the most cases cheaper than to build it. I think the truth is somewhere in the middle and if you're wise enough you'd be Ok.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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On 7/26/2021 at 2:13 PM, mowerman said:

sheet metal...all rust free,,thats almost impossible,,most moldings there,,,,,most important,,,,engine runs ,,,no blue smoke and no antifreeze in the oil....descent tires....good luck...bob

Im thinking to check in the order above, motors and drive line are pretty easy to rebuild but the coin gets chewed up really quick on body work and missing bits and pieces, you will be shocked at just how quick you will go thru the dollars, what ever you think it will cost no matter how experienced you are or how many mates you have it pays to remember the words of a old American hot rodder Lil John Buttera "double it and then multiply it by four" 

Tyres are last on my list, there a dime a dozen these days, they are the cheapest I  have ever seen them

Good luck and let us know how you make out

Paul

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Ya, even my 28k lbs was just about all you wanted to go long distance with.  It would hold 65 mph for the most part until you got into hills.  The 237 really made it bearable.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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