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Mack AI460 AI427 AMI low torque low horsepower poor fuel mileage granite , dead dog , remediation


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Thanks for the update Iv'e been following this like it's my own. I think That 5" exhaust will make a big difference, get every thing flowing better. 2 questions thou ,why not build the exhaust yourself seams like it would be easy cut up a few elbows and some straight pipe and weld them back together the way you want them. And second this is the stock cam still right.

 

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Also hoping for a Pyro drop.

1. In my mind it would have taken 6 trips to town, 8 hours, 5 restock fees for pipes we guess ordered but couldn't use. I like the idea of having it built to exact specs by a group of guys who do it well, all day, for a (IMO) pretty good price. A couple years ago I built a gantry for pulling up deer then saw one in a magazine for less than the price of my parts. 

I may have been able to coat the piece-together-pipe, but if it did not hold I'd have a ball of rust by January 2018. The volume of salt used up here is really something. Currently, they liquid salt spray before a storm to stop the bond, rock salt/sand mix during the storm and rock salt after the pack-down ice sets.  

2. We are running the stock AI cam. 

Edited by Mack Technician
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On ‎8‎/‎4‎/‎2017 at 5:54 AM, dcrow said:

Any updates on how this truck is doing fuel/power wise? Also a thought with the cam, can a machine shop grind and polish down the extra bump to eliminate the egr? I realize it's still labor intensive but maybe save a little on the cam purchase. 

I called Barry Cam Service out of Minnesota. He is tooled up to rebuild and cut old production E7 and E9 cams with good success, but has no templates to cut a CCRS/AI/AC cam. He said if I brought in a pre-AI (power leash), or AC cam with the exhaust profile I want, he would build a template and "match trim" the six AI cam exhaust lobes. He would be charging time and material so not cheap for the first guy stepping up to the plate.    

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Stripped down the pipes and made a comparison of exhausts........looks really good.

Be Advised: When I came to pick up my pipes the final bill was almost double my original quote. I raised issue with my Mack Dealership parts guy and he went back on Grand Rock for satisfaction. They dropped the price to the original numbers I listed on this thread. If anyone buys from Grand I'm curious to know what the cost is? Are they going to jack it through the ceiling or was it a case of Grand actually investing a lot of retool and time to get this "first production" of a 5" custom? Hopefully just an attempt to recoup loss and the upgrade hasn't now become less practical due to expense. 

 

1390953927_exhaust1.JPG.3273718b0485180936bfdb947ada90b0.JPG

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The pipes are a very good dimensional likeness.

Note to user: Save yourself some trouble and pull the air cleaner housing, w/rubber inlet tube, right away. You are going to need to pull it to fit the 5" into the existing space so you may as well enjoy the accessibility while removing the 4". The 4" can be otherwise be removed and installed with the air cleaner in place.

 

1785375769_exhaust2.JPG.5ea64166c26513f58e3897504cced291.JPG

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The Muffler purchased from Grand does not have a break-in baffle. It is straight through design. The pic is the closed baffle of the old muffler, we will see if the audible changed much. Yup, I did get a little medieval on the muffler to get it off....things been choking the dog for 12 years, why be nice? 

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The 4" clamp and 5" replacement are almost a perfect cross over. Everything must expand 1/2" wider from imagined center-line of exhaust and it is about a perfect 1/2" drop in the 5" saddle.

1656074715_mufflerclamp.JPG.1812ac3721687af0b4bc974fc123df87.JPG

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Exhaust is installed, sounds very conservative. The only difference is not in the baritone, but the whistle. The (now missing) baffle apparently reflected the sound of the turbo harmonics and it now has a magnified spooling sound.

You can hear the impeller talking, but the actual depth of tone is still very similar to what we had.  

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Everything fit perfect. Compress the flex pipe and cut an additional 6-7" beyond gap measurement for good solid overlap. Remember the cab bounce motion is completely absorbed in the flex pipe since stack is cab-hung. If you get cheap, and don't make a deep overlap, you will pay for it later with motion loosening clamps and wearing a slit cut in pipe. Make sure you get decent stainless steel flex, if it rusts to -zero- flexibility it's shot and taking the pipes with it. 

 

 

Did a simple chop and weld to 5" for bracket. You will want rear pipe to lay on frame when cab bags are deflated.

 2041291093_exhaustbracket.JPG.7b01d4f9501f971d18e92ed6f7739fb4.JPG1809756878_exhaustrefurbish.JPG.464bc111d9474fb91bfe730651510992.JPG

 

 

 

 

Call me a complainer..................but yes, they will put the sticker in the one place you never would. 

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It's out hauling equipment today so waiting on results of pyro and boost adjustment. We were able to reuse the pyro so results should be unbiased to old numbers.

A friend asked him to tug their 70,000lb excavator to a site. Think He is a little pink to prove the Log Dog. 

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22 hours ago, Bigjohn4300 said:

So if I read and am understanding correct, all of the ccrs motors, from the 300 to the 460 use the same EUP p.n.?

There only 3 different EUP part numbers. One for the early ETECH. One for the ASET AC engine and one for the CCRS and ASET AI engines. HP ratings don't matter regarding EUP's . 

 

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