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A/C in a B model


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Ya, the ones I've seen on Amazon, typical small 1/4 or 1/3 hp for under $100. Just didn't know how much vacuum they will pull. I know they won't do it fast, but that is not an issue.

Most will pull the 29 inches of vacuum you need to clear thge system of air and moisture. The main difference is how fast it gets to the 29 inches of vacuum.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got me a can of 134a for $120 from my buddy at Napa. I also picked up one of those air/vacuum pumps from HF. I hooked it up and it pulled a vacuum.........only problem is I have a leak as it won't hold. As soon as I pull it, it drops to zero. Ugh, time to start going fitting to fitting. Wonder if I could put some air pressure INTO the system and use soapy water to find the leak??

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Air pressure will work fine, 20 -30 psi, system operates at pressure any how. First make sure the Schrader valves are tight..

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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Got me a can of 134a for $120 from my buddy at Napa. I also picked up one of those air/vacuum pumps from HF. I hooked it up and it pulled a vacuum.........only problem is I have a leak as it won't hold. As soon as I pull it, it drops to zero. Ugh, time to start going fitting to fitting. Wonder if I could put some air pressure INTO the system and use soapy water to find the leak??

Larry,

Which pump did you buy from HF?

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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The cheapie $10 version. They have the bigger electric versions like I saw online for $150. The air version seems to work so far. It did draw it down, but with the leak it would not go beyond 15 in of vacuum.

Ya, I figured since the system is meant for 100+ lbs, I could put 20 or so into it and then get the spray bottle out and see where it leaks. Be easier then tearing each fitting apart to inspect the O ring. When I put it together, I used the PAG 100 oil to lubricate everything. But, that oil does not seem to be very slippery and I still was hesitate about how well it would seal. I found out, I was right. I'd rather use like Vasoline or such to get things to really move around easier, but not sure if that is compatible.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Dont use air. Air will put moisture in and ruin things. If you want to pressurize it use nitrogen or just pump 134 into it. Moisture will ruin your drier or accumulator even if you vacuum it back down. Moisture turns to acid when mixed with heat and Freon and will kill your system. No matter how dry the air you use it will still have moisture.

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Larry - this one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

Has anyone used R134 with a dye?

I had the a/c compressor (rebuilt one) and dryer replaced and converted to R134 in the Dodge D150. The first winter it leaked down. I recharged it with A/C Pro R134 that I bought at Wally World. It has a sealer and seems to work (keeping my fingers crossed).

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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Dont use air. Air will put moisture in and ruin things. If you want to pressurize it use nitrogen or just pump 134 into it. Moisture will ruin your drier or accumulator even if you vacuum it back down. Moisture turns to acid when mixed with heat and Freon and will kill your system. No matter how dry the air you use it will still have moisture.

Larry's is a virgin system, never been charged and still has normal atmosphere in it. Once the system is charged with R12 or 133A NEVER use shop air in it, Don't mix the r12 /r134a oils either. .

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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Ok, here a question for the gurus. I'm going to pull each fitting apart this weekend and replace any damaged O-rings.

Question: What can I use beside PAG100 oil to lubricate the O-rings? This oil is not very substantial and even after applying it liberally the O-rings still went on very dry and I was concerned that it might not work. I was right, they leak somewhere.

I know I don't want to contaminate the system, but there has to be something else I can use? Vasoline?? KY Jelly?? LOL!! Sumthing with some substance to it.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Don't know if someone already said so... But you can buy R134A with UV leak detector. Some companies also sell R134A with leak detector and leak sealer combined. Googled it and I see lots of auto parts places sell it. I have no idea if it is any good or not. Maybe somebody here has experience with it?

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I've used that before in my pickup. Never did find the leak, even after using the special light in the dark of night. Don't really want to waste 134A trying to find a leak. That is just throwing money away(and lord knows I find plenty of ways to do that anyway).

I'll likely find the damaged o-ring when I pull the fittings apart. I just want a better way to install them. That is the root cause of the problem.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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I've used that before in my pickup. Never did find the leak, even after using the special light in the dark of night. Don't really want to waste 134A trying to find a leak. That is just throwing money away(and lord knows I find plenty of ways to do that anyway).

I'll likely find the damaged o-ring when I pull the fittings apart. I just want a better way to install them. That is the root cause of the problem.

Did you ever ask the place you got the unit from or the manufacturer what to use on the o rings?

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I was going to, just figured I'd see what the consensus was here. Looks to be the same green o-rings I used when I fixed my pickup truck lines a few years ago.

Did I mention, it won't hold a charge for more then a month LOL!! Stupid a/c!!! Guess I have no luck with this crap??? But like the song says..........."I keep try'n........."

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Well I think I found my leak. Stupid me forgot to tighten one fitting on the condenser!! Doh. Seems to pull down and hold now. Going to let it draw down for 1/2 hr. If it holds vacuum for a 1/2 hr I might try charging it tomorrow.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Well found one pinched o-ring and another loose fitting on evaporator. Thought all was well.......but not. Still have the same slow leak. Dont know what to do now? Might get some leak detector and charge it up anyhow.. Then maybe I can find the real problem. With three leaks fixed and has the same issue?? I don't get it.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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make sure your fittings are sealed up good too. seems like most times i fail the vac test i find the leak where the gauges are attached to the service ports. i am sure that you already checked but just thought i would throw that out there. but it sounds like your on the right track.

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