Vladislav

Amazing pic. Any ideas on those white walls? Paint?

Prob a wheel you turn to lock brakes. Mounted and looks like one to steer.

A moving site on one hand. But on the other the trucks went to new homes. Anyway much better than if they're scrapped.

In theory the housing could be cast steel. So steel is welded to steel. But I doubt on it. On the other hand welding of cast iron seems the least a questional solution.

Put 2402 Lehigh Parkway South Allentown PA in your navi and you will be there soon enough. As for me I had to roam over the neighbourhood a little before got to the place.

A good pair of rails is what you could start with to build up a nice truck. Good luck on the entertainment.

Ok, the things could be more complicated indeed. I found a picture of the blue parking brake knob and it has almost two electrical switches on it. There's one more air switch which is installed to the right from the throttle pedal in the cab, close to the heater core. It could be a low pressure indication but worth to be checked.

The setup is similar to what you describe. Two 14 posts junction blocks at the left side of the firewall. Unfortunately I haven't had luck tracked the schematic for them. There is a full scheme for an R-model here in Viki section but it represents early models which differ from 80's years ones as I found out. I do suppose cab wiring on later R's and RW's is the same harness since see no reason making it different. And as I was told (by Matt Pfahl) that harness covers almost all factory options in its basic desing. So the harness must be the same. Ok, there were also 90's years harnesses with all the wires in white color with text markings on but multy-colored ones of 80's years must be the same. What I had in my truck was trailer coupling cable attached to some 5 posts (stop, marker, back up, L and R turns) of the outer 14 posts terminal. And when I was looking for tractor stops I found them at one of those posts. Possibly it could be different but I see no reason to multiply signal sources, much easier to just parallel tractor and trailor. Some relays could be used though but I found neither of them at my truck. Of brake light switches there's one unit attached to the outside of the firewall about its middle. It has two wires and an air line. It reacts on pressure change at some certain point in brake system and lights the lamps on. Again, I see no reason to multiply such switches as long as trailer lights must get on at the same time as tractor ones do. So if even tractor and trailer wires go to lamps from different 14 pole connectors the initiating signal should be the same. And it is the switch on the firewall.

The truck looks in very good shape. Good luck on the engine rebuilt. It seems like an easy task but sure much depends on ability of spares.

I don't know what you have of the steering gear on your LS85 but my L-model - like Mack truck (NR) has one named as Mack Archemoid gear. I had two of them when revised, used perfect low mile screw and sector but found play of the sector cross shaft (the Pitman arm was pressed onto). The shaft turns in two needle bearings and I could trace a pair of NOS ones through fleabay. Those were Torrington brand and almost identical to the original content. The final issue was new bearings supplied almost the same play of the shaft and some overall play in the assembled gear as it was with the old ones. So looked like a factory design to me. I was thinking on plasma-welding excessive metal to the shaft journals and than grind them down to the desired size but passed on that being afraid ruining the shaft.

So far I knew about the only brake light switch operated by air and it's located on the firewall behind the engine rear end (if straight 6). Two wires attached to it and the switch reacts either for foot valve, parking brake knob, low overall pressure or even the trolley valve. I'm not ready to tell is there any relay but what I have on my '88 R-model is the positive brake light wire comes to the firewall terminal to go further to the tractor chassis lights. And the trailer socket cable is just attached to the same terminals at the firewall connector to be in parallel to the tractor circuits. Sure all that could be a result of modifying but looks like was done at the factory.

Jim, thanks a lot for taking time to share. Definitely interesting and (surprizingly) unknown to me page of antique truck history. Would be cool to build a thread with the most of trucks represented there. BMT is well found by Google and other web-searchers so anybody who makes look for Kemp's collection would get what they want. Sure Facebook work either but BMT looks better from where I'm sitting

What?? I've got a feeling of me being on here for almost 8 years as just wasting my time. What is or was Kemp's Mack Museum???

I suppose the best would be some additional ramp at the rear you put below the rear end of the bad and make the track longer for smaller angle. As follow you 1st need to put that thing somewhere on the truck and 2nd you need to put it in place and it could be heavy. On the other hand all that could work and is relatively simple.

I like the idea of using a dump hoist combined with a flat bed. Not 100% sure but suppose you can lean the bed and drive a car onto it to be transported to a show or so.

An excellent addition to Basking Ridge collection.

A cat used to crawl into my MH cab through the gear shifter opening when the latter was removed. I was unhappy with hair laying on the seats until figured out I had no mice instead. Mack supplys cushion foam for Bostrom seats but it's difficult to find a correct one. I had experience ordering such thing for my R-model Bostrom 715E at Mack dealership in upstate NY. The guy at the desk spent no less than half an hour identyfying my truck and the seat and even called to Bostrom. He finally stated he knew what it was and he had to order it from another location. I said Ok but when I showed up again in a week the cushion they got was wrong. I knew the truck could have the seat swapped during the years (their suggestion) but here in Russia are 3 R's from the same factory butch with 6 similar Bostrom seats. What I would do is to roam over junk yards and look for a passenger seat of the same model your driver one is. And than swap the cushion or the complete assembly.

Those numbers are treasures property of those lucky guys who have parts lists. To me it seems I will use actual measurements to identify rods. I found out that Atro web-site very helpful. They seem offering joints I could replace keeping original metal rods. Would be very good to import much lighter parts. Hopefully I'll be able to get the joints off the rods and than press them in.

Does PAI supply them either?

Congrats on the purchase! I like the look of twin screw B's.

True on that. Puff limiter was discussed on here in the past. Rifle through "Engine and transmission" topics and you will find essential info on that. Vlad

Watched the date today in the morning and found it kept in my mind. I would never wish anything like that to any nation.

I guess it's in PA 😎 If I'm able to show up to Trucktoberfest this fall I would try to show up at that place too. But from observing the amount of threasuries there it seems to me I shouldn't show up at all...

Good thing to let a seller having a "def" time before making an offer. After 2-3 weeks of no activity there could be much more interest. At least for a reason of no sell to be explained.