Vladislav

Wow! That's a collection! Increadable number of tractors and steam engines! And seeing this makes me think of how industrially developed America already was in those older years. Thanks the great for posting.

Where's that landfill? Do you have anything left off that cab? I'm in interest for lower airbag brackets and some parts off the gear shifter.

A fabricated housing should be weldable. I would do it as usual. Drill holes in the ends, cut out along the crack and weld. Better try to do it both sides. Unfortunately I have almost nothing experience on how long it would last. Hope other folks will point you out on that. Four years back a rear housing on International Harvester 9400 had a crack along the cenrtal hemisphere where it was welded into the banjo. A guy cut the crack on the outer side only since the axle was on the truck and filled with oil. He welded it and no troubles so far. I don't know the real milage the truck has done to the moment, nearly one tyre set is gone from that day. With the road conditions couldn't be described as smooth and easy. I have an extra 44 cast housing laying in the yard. Come and get it!

If you cut the welds off you will too probably fix them with no parts needed.

I have the elephant ears on my truck but that's not a matter. The axles with springs, trunnion, wheels and so on are ready and almost in the chassis. Just the diffs required to go in. The trouble is the correct bolt pattern. They are 10 bolts, the style L's and early B's had. My carriers's bodies are also ready, sand blasted and painted. The key is gear sets. I can put them off my R which I have 2 extra sets. Would get 5,73 doing that. But the power divider off a R-model (CRD-92) has a shorter body than my original one. Not nice on my mind. So I'm in a search so far. Have time so far being working with other big parts.

Cool Love the straps!

A friend of mine (he works for me either) use Cooper Discoverer M/T's for a while. Probably two sets to the moment. He used to ride 35/12.5R15 on his 1983 Mercedes G. The rig is mostly made for hard off-road but used for everyday run in the city either. And when he goes to some off-road challenge there usually is a highway trip of 1000-1500 km to the area. Sure no really fast runs but 100 km/h (60mph) is an almost normal thing. There are Russian-made tyres also. I don't know how they are of quality now. Heard some were not bad. But 15-20 years ago they were all crap. People had no alternative until used tyres came to the country together with used foreign vehicles. Personally I prefere to avoid using them until would hear good recomendations for no less than 5 or more years.

I have seen one in a mixer too. 1999 RD690. Thought they were stock starting from some date. It looks brutal but I have no idea on how good when drive. Sure flip-flops were not on my count.

I do like BFG's. Ran one set of M/T's for a couple of years for both summer and winter. Than had A/T's on another vehicle ans was happy with them for 3 years with no swap in the winter time. They weren't nice for real ice. But good enough when mostly in the city or nearby. Currently I wear out Yokohama's M/T for no less than 70000km to the moment. Their look tells 10-15K more would be Ok. But I like to get muddy ocassionnaly. And can do it any time I want. So for highway reason I'd go with something smoother along the thread.

From what I can see in the pictures it differs from what I need. I don't have a B-model but looking for a set of differentials for my WW2 Mack. Something faster than 9.02 the original setup. But those wouldn't fit into my axles. And it seems the gears off them either. Thank you for posting the pictures.

Actually I need a pair of carriers (differentials) only. But I'm afraid if you even agree to remove them a shipping to New Jersey from where they might be shipped to me would cost a lot. Any suggestions on how difficult to send old iron to the States?

Australian Valueliners were almost different ball game indeed. As far as I've figured out the most Macks built there in those years rode on a R-model frame. I mean American Eastern R's. If you know RL/RS had their own frame style - straight rails from front to rear, of the constant section and with no spread at the front. Both 600's and 700's. Talking further of Aussie Valueliners you can easily identyfy V8 trucks. They had higher cabs with the hood top beweled. Those with the horizontal hood top were in-line 6's.

No. The headlight bucket was fitted right onto the hood. With the bezel (chrome ring) on the light unit. The outside stainless steel plate attaches straight to the hood either with screws. No real connection between the bucket and the plate.

At what place Ford used them? C-series were cabovers.

It seems to me nice to put ducks in a row having such one in the middle.

Looks like the teeth count could be done without diff removing this time. Just in a can with the oil drained.

So did you mean RS600 with V8? I suppose they never existed. Although I'm not 100% clever on this matter. And if anybody say I'm wrong I'd like to know that.

Nobody really knows how many Macks were melted down to become a Hyundai part. But now it pays back

If you mean that guy runs RD with a round headight in a suare bezel to fit a RD newer hood suare opening it was a factory option for some RD's. Sure they had them on both sides when new. There was a talk on that on here recently. Just a couple weeks back. I'm not ready to point you to it right now.

RS700's were Valueliners either.

Neat little truck! Oh, maybe I'm wrong. It starts being not so little when you intitiate works to make it up I suppose you better put front brakes on if runs with no trailer are planned in the future.

Welocme to the site!

Hi, Why don't you like any of these? Seriously, if you're looking for an original one, the best way is to contact Watts Mack, the company which drives this site. They're helpful and qute professional on everything classic Mack-related. http://www.wattsmack.com/ Or just google "Mack torque rod" and try your best talking to parts stores in a hope to get a correct part. The main measurments will be helpful. Vlad

I wish I could Actually there's not so much of to catch overhere. So I try to not miss any chance. And another reason is I payed for that load just a bit more than if I for example buy and import a 7 speed gearbox only.

It seems to me as one good idea! Are you sure you will make such thing correct using your B67 cab? I suppose it's the most important trouble. Isn't it? For shipping it cost for me $2.5 for one kilogram of old iron to bring to Russia from NJ with customs included. I have no of idea on how much would that be for the opposite direction. So if you find it reasonable I would be too likely to trade the setup for something else of the same weight rate