Geoff Weeks

No, that is the relay terminal and not used in most cases. the "hot" output is the one with the blue arrow pointing to it alt.odg

Ok you have a Delco 25Si or 26SI (they are the same externally). The wire on the top is ground and the one that looks like a side-post battery terminal is output. If everything is as it should be on the Delco, the post and bolt color should indicate positive or negative ground on the design of the alternator. They were made in both polarity but negative ground is by far the most prevalent. Blowing up your picture as much as I can, the output bolt looks to be red, indicating a normal negative ground (case of the alternator is neg, output post is positive) system. confirm by tracing the heavy cables from the neg posts on the batteries and find out where they go. The output on the alternator should go to battery positive, either at the starter solenoid or somewhere else that can handle full output of the alternator.

There is a special tool that is made to get the inner nut off when that happens. It isn't 100% effective, but does work most of the time. https://www.jbtools.com/ken-tool-30165-dual-wheel-lug-stud-remover/?wi=off&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22174825632 you pound it on and then wrench the nut off. Once you have ground down one side, I don't think it will work. just cutting above the rim may not do it. You may have to pull the hub, if inboard drums, and remove the nut in the drum and drive the stud out. If that is what you mean by "old Skool" brakes! I think you may be to the point where you have to decide "what to destroy" to get the rim off, and replace the destroyed parts.

From what little I can see in the picture, I'd guess baldface or whitefaced. They are very close kin to yellowjackets. I think they build nests above ground like the one you had, I know yellowjackets can and do nest in the ground. I know when I get stung from a wasp, it feels like someone heated a pin red hot and jammed it deep into my skin, then I swell up real bad. More then a few stings and I go into shock. anything that can coat an insect (hairspray etc) can cut off there ability to get oxygen and they die, but hornet spray doesn't have to coat them directly to work. Bees, on the other hand don't bother me much, yeah I feel a sting and it itches a bit, but wasps are a whole different story.

Yellow jackets are wasps not bees, White faced or baldfaced hornets are wasps! Just to add confusion to the mix. Bees are fine with me, wasps can send me to the hospital if I get multiple stings. Those "paper" nests are wasp nests, so always be careful around them

Photo is worth 1000 words

Well, that is a new one on me "both positive and negative ground on the same vehicle!

Might want to look at what Apex says about the 6400, "wet liners only" https://www.apexinds.com/tools/ATC6400.html

I can handle bee stings, no problem, even hauled a load of honey bees from the west coast back to the midwest. Wasp and hornets are a different matter. I get a severe allergic reaction to their venom. I don't know what is different between the species, but I DO know there is a difference.

If I understand correctly, he is doing at least all six liners. Making or buying a tool would be best. A single liner, I have used a burr and cut two slits almost through, then knocked out a section to curl the liner in on itself. Lots of work but less so than removing the engine and crank from what I was working on. Lot of "clean up" work to make sure no "grit" remains behind. Mild steel deforms easily so has to be thick enough where it hooks the bottom of the liner to retain its diameter. Harder steel can be thinner. Pilot is a must to keep the puller on center. The larger the area in contact with the liner, the less you have to worry about deformation. It is why mild steel slugs work well and why pullers like the one pictured use replaceable hardened lugs, because the contact area is so much less. Many ways to "skin the cat" what works best for you depends on how many you do and how fast you want to get it done. Dry liners tend to be thinner than wet liners giving you less to grip on. Many engine shops prefer to use a boring bar to "bore out" dry liners, as they say there is less chance of damaging the block, like putting a gouge in the bore where the liner sits. They have the advantage of the engine out and the machines at hand to do the job. I have run across a "stuck" liner that sheared on of my puller lugs before. It pulled other liners from the same block without problem, but that "one" required a fresh set of lugs. Never know what you will run into.

Comes down to what you expect in the future and how much you are willing to deal with for short term. No wrong answer.

I've made special tools for the Gardner's, for Leylands for the Kubota. Nothing wrong with home made. Sometimes the time it takes to make one that is as well made as a store bought one, uses time better spent elsewhere. A round "slug" at the bottom sized to fit the liner bore can do a great job... if the crank doesn't get in the way. A "rocker" type that can be passed down through the bore from the top can work with the crank in place. The ones with adjustable legs and two thickness of "feet" to grab thick and thin liners works on multiple engines with one purchase. Crank in or out. I chose one that would work on multiple sized engines, although I used it most on 855 Cummins blocks. After pulling so many liners, the $600 is soon forgot, the ability to pull a liner next to a head that is still on an adjacent cyl has paid off a time or two. I'm not saying you HAVE to purchase, and you can easily copy one if you have the material and shop to make one, but a well designed tool makes the job go so much better. I have plenty of home made tools in the box, for special applications. Do a job once, try and borrow a tool, do it twice buy or build a tool.

JoJo pointed to a place around $600, which is what I paid all those years ago. Yeah, I've pulled dryliners out of one block to put in another. That isn't the point. I forget how many blocks Larry has, and at some point the rationale that "I only have this one" to do, falls apart. Having the right tools not only speeds thing up, they can prevent damage. A liner press over beating the liner in, not only gets it seated without damage to the top, it can alert to problems when it doesn't press in smoothly, that might be missed when hammering away. It can hold the liner in the installed compression to check protrusion. A liner puller over a weld bead, can get the liner out without risk. Yes if you have a lathe, you can make a damn fine liner puller for that bore. A fine thread and a thrust bearing, and you have something every bit as good as that tool above. If all you are going to work on has the same bore, you are set, but you'll have to make another "slug" for each additional bore/block type you work on.

I have the same tool from Apex, had it for years. If you have one liner to pull, on Saturday afternoon, you can try some of the Make Do methods. When you have 6 or more liners to pull, the tool is worth buying. Yeah, if you only are working on one engine with one bore size, you can make your own. Problem with threaded rod, most often it is course thread, which is not what you want to pull with. I feel the same about buying "clam shell, or tapered cone" ring compressors. Yeah you can do an engine without or with a one size fits all, compressor, but when working on an engine like that, the correct tool make the job much easier.

Don't know how thick your liners are in that engine, but a liner puller is worth the money if you are going to do that kind of work.

I didn't know viscous clutches were used that late, my '83 came with one but it was gone when I got it, replaced with a fixed fan, that I replaced with an air clutch. I thought most would have got for on/off or two speed by that time.

A single speed air fan drive, will either be stopped at idle or turning very slowly by the drag in the bearings. A two speed will be turning faster.

There HAS to be air flow over the condenser, so either there is a two speed fan drive, or some other way, to get air flow. It does sound like a typical older system and possibly APADs. I was trying not to mislead so was somewhat vague, but also point you at places to look. A A/C cannot function without air flow over the condenser, period. Without air flow, no heat can move. So either there is some fan operation or there is a HPCO that turns off the compressor, otherwise the pressure will build on the high side until a relief opens or a hose pops. The fact that you say there is no fan when idling, and that the compressor sometimes shuts down and will not re start points to a high pressure problem. I'm leaning toward an APAD's system/ problem. For the high side not to rise while stationary say there HAS to be air flow over the condenser. Switch on the receiver can be either a single (low pressure cut out) or binary (low and high pressure cut out) they look EXACTLY the same and the plug is the same, make sure it is working as it should. I know A/C work, what I don't know is exactly how the system was made on your truck.

Not knowing the Mack system I will make some comments on what you observed. Condenser fans not running: This is a clue, when stationary something has to move air over the condenser. What is the high side doing while the compressor is running and the truck not moving? fans should kick on around 325 psi or so. 2nd some new stuff (and don't know if this applies here) don't use pressure switches but instead use pressure transducers which send a variable pressure signal to the controller. Jumping these can cause problems, but most often they have 3 terminals on them, and IIRC yours have 2. In my experience it is extremely rare for a Tx valve to be a problem. So I see two possibilities. 1: the fans aren't coming on and a safety is locking out the compressor and doesn't reset until the truck is shut off and re started. This would imply some sort of high pressure cut-out in the system, either transducer or a HPCO switch. Again I don't know the Mack system for this year 2: more likely, Control panel, if it is responsible for turning on the fans, and turning off the compressor when the frost switch tells it the temp has reached freezing. Hits both problems if the control panel is where these outputs come from. May be someone else can chime in, does the controller receive the inputs from the frost and binary and then control the fans and compressor (either directly or through relays)?

I've never had luck driving over them even with a steer loaded to 12K. the rubber just flexes, and you don't get the force right at the rim where you need it. Tough one took a duck bill hammer, taking small bites all the way around the rim, and may be a wedge in a few places. Yeah kicked my butt back when I did it, and never looked forward to do it. You need the thicker tire hammer to convert the impact into a wedging force between the rim and the tire bead. A grub hoe just isn't thick enough to move the bead.

Also a true tire hammer would do better than a grub-hoe, thicker in the duck-bill end.

For the tough one, take one of the other rims, wire brush it and put it gutter side up, put the trouble maker gutter side down on top of the cleaned rim, and work the tire off, down to the clean rim and out of the trouble maker rim. then slide off the cleaned rim.

I used a low flow in heavy-haul, and the company I was leased to had many low-flow in heavy service. As I said, it returns some real gains in fuel mileage. Originally, I had a 1500 sq-in radiator and it did ok pulling boilers (high wide and heavy) but there was little "extra" to spare. Both of my trucks I upgraded to fit 1800 sq-in radiators and never had a problem. Coolant filters, SCA's and keeping up on maintenance is important. That holds true if you have a conventional cooling system. My take is the fears are far overblown. If you are going to let cooling system degrade, try and fix with "black pepper and a raw egg", in the cooling system, you are going to have problems. I have met with those that have opted for that method then complain when there are problems, and blame low-flow. Radiator cores cost more, and require more skill to assemble, to get the divided bottom take sealed. Like anything "different" from what people are used to, it can cause people to say it is bad. If you are going to push engines to high Hp, beyond what the factory made, it can be hard to cool, regardless of cooling system type. Fact is: air to air beats all work around's. I will not say low flow beats all, it does not. I also wouldn't pass on a good truck because of it. It went away about 35 years ago, and was only used for about 3-5 years. That makes it odd, but also Cummins was a big player and made a lot of truck engines. 2 stroke Detroit's were on the wain, Series 60 had some teething pains, and Cat would only go to 400 hp with water cooling, if you wanted 425 or 475 you had to have air to air and the limited which trucks could install one in. Cummins offered the 444 that could be fit in any truck. Mack did what they did in their own, but that was limited to Mack brands. If I were building a Big Cam today for a more modern chassie, I would convert to air to air like a N-14 is. I had a Big Cam 1 built in 1979 I had a Big Cam 3 built in 1983 I had a Big Cam 4 built in 1986 or 87 I had a NT88 built in 1988 By the 90's the N-14 was out at least in mechanical versions. The Low flow was only Big Cam 4 and NT88's which is about a 4-5 year run. There are very few people around that had enough experience with them, today or even at the turn of the century. I just happened to be around in the time frame when they were thick on the ground. The L-10 also used the same system (call Optimized Aftercooling ) or OAC in the same timeframe.

I saw a red fox in my yard a week ago, I left it be, as it was hunting rodents. I hear Coyotes often but rarely see them. Very afraid of humans and domesticated dog (which often bring a human with a gun). No mistaking a fox for a coyote, size and shape of the head are give-a-ways.

By comparison, Mack's tip turbine is a more "elegant" solution to the problem, but I suspect more expensive to produce. I could be wrong about that, the last re-core I did on my Low Flow radiator cost me $2100, the out of chassie rebiuld kit cost $1500 for the engine. The need for each went away when space in front of the radiator was provided by the truck Mfg.