Geoff Weeks

I am going to take the 5th wheel off one of my junk frames and make an adapter to drop on the back of the K's bed, already am working on the compressor mount, have plenty of air tanks and compressors laying around. If I really wanted to do it right, I could get an air pack to replace the hydovac and then it would be legal to pull semi's with it. I only own a storage trailer now so no big deal. I was presently surprised at the cost. Calling around for "small bits" of steel the prices were high. This has the added value that if stopped by a DOT cop, it has the factory weight rating sticker on it.

Thought you might be interested in this, 16,000 lb hitch for the K-7. They make a 20,000 lb version but realistically I don't think I have anything over 5,000lbs I'll be using it on. I had 10,000 on the bed before, however. If I am going much over that, I'd want a 5th wheel over the drive and not a rear pull. The truck had a hitch (holes seen on the rear) but it was too high for everything I tow, and always ran into it when I was working around the back of the truck. There is a 1/2" plate steel there welded into the frame and braced diagonally from further up. Very stout. I left all that, and added in a axle U bolt to it from the receiver, which should add even more strength to the already over built 16,000 factory rating. This set-up is all behind the rear of the truck when the ball mount is removed. I got a N.O.S, Kelsey-Hayes electric brake controller rated for both 6 and 12 volts. In the lit for it (circa 1975) it stated that ALL electric brake magnets are "8 volt units" suitable for use on both 6 (7.2 volt) and 12 volt systems. I don't think much has changed in electric brake magnets over the years. The K-7 has all the brakes it need to stop over 20K but if the bed is unloaded, the trailer can push the rear around, that is where trailer brakes make all the difference. Most states don't require below around 3500 lbs, but I have two single axles I spec'd with brakes anyway. I looked into buying metal to make my own, but the whole ball of wax including the ball mount was around $160 and I couldn't come up with the steel for that price. Pictures are the final fitment prior to tack welding the cross tube, then remove the whole thing and weld in position. Bolts to the frame with 5/8 and 1/2" grade 8 frame bolts.

I know fuel tanks outside the frame rails must be able to pass a drop test, filled and dropped at different angles and can not leak (or leak more than a spec'd amount) to be approve for road use. I do not, however, know if gasoline and diesel have to meet the same requirements or if gasoline is stricter requirements.

As has been pointed out, other equipment uses aluminum for tanks. I wonder how much of the "not approved for Gasoline" has to do with emissions and venting requirements for gasoline and roll over requirements for the same? My old step tanks from "back in the day" state for diesel or gasoline, but the lower bungs are not to be used for gasoline. (I.E. no cross over or gravity feed).

I run premium no alcohol in my 1984 Saab 900 turbo, The rest gets whatever as long as it isn't over 10% alcohol, but the 1942 doesn't like any of today's gasoline it evaporates from the fuel line during sitting , requiring re-priming if t sits.

Well, I wouldn't consider either my Marmon or either of my 9670's beaters, may be not show trucks but something in between. I have had even the pre made tank strap web come out on rectangular tanks after a while.

IDK, mine stay put. I don't trim until the straps are tight, and are just the width of the strap. Purpose made stuff is great, but I am going with what I have to hand. I've got stuff that has over 15 years on it and hasn't moved. If If had serviceable purpose made stuff, of course I'd use it. You could (and I have) used a little weatherstrip adhesive in the center of the strap to hold it, but I have also done it dry. Thinking about it, the times it worked best was on cylindrical tanks where the force on the strap was even all the way around. Rectangular tanks, the strap is less tight on the flat parts and more on the corners,

Oh, and one thing I didn't mention but may be should have, when I did my swap, I went from 3.90's to 4.11'/ 5.63's, and my mileage went up. You can be too slow.

Looked in the Red Dot online catalog, and it only lists R models back to 1980? so don't know what would be required to install on a earlier truck.

I would doubt it had it from the factory. Period correct would be a roof mount condenser and either a roof or backwall mount evaporator unit. I don't know if the R cab kits I have seen will work with all years or only some years and not the other. Advantage of the correct dash mount is you should get fresh air into the unit and not just recirculated air. If the truck has shutters that may preclude radiator mount for the condenser (might not be enough clearance for the condenser and still have the shutters open) and would need a fan and shutter override on the system. All reasons why roof mounts were so popular back in the day.

The heated mirrors On my IHC had a heater grid that had an adhesive on the back, it was a single use, and I don't think you can peal it off the old and get it to stick to the new. That is if you could get it off in one piece. I would see if replacement grids are available. Long time ago they were for my IHC's I doubt they are still sold that way anymore, Likely have to buy the whole mirror.

I believe a few months ago Watts was selling the complete kit. I know Red Dot also makes a kit for the R model.

I had plenty of used tubes and/or flap material laying around, so I would put it under the strap an the trim with a utility Knife, but some say I am cheap!😄

My guess is the time and money will not be worth the trouble. I had about $3K total in my swap, but I did everything myself, and I already had a single axle parts truck with a 2 spd rear. I bought the front "core" and re ratioed both myself (purchased new ring and pinion for both). The housings in the truck would accept 2 spd in place of the singles with no change to the housings. I have the experience to replace gears and set-up a hypoid drive set. All that was done over 10 years ago. Look at your return on money spent and include down time in the figures. I doubt you could replace the rears like for like for that price. That is just for the "pigs" and no labor, using used "pigs". $3 grand pays for a lot of fuel.

Well, that saves you replacing or sealing it, shouldn't need either.

This is exactly where the BSFC graphs come in. In the old days a good truck salesman did the calculations for each truck, working with the buyer and the available options from the mfg. That is what YOU need to do. If you don't understand it, you need someone who not only does, but knows EXACTLY how you are going to use it. Basing you choice off what someone here or somewhere else says worked for them, will far more likely put you in a worse position then you are now. Modern trucks are often made to to best compromise and not "spec built" like they were in the older days. It can be the best it can be, as new trucks can handle wider operation than the older mechanical truck could. So if there is any improvement to be made, you are going to have to optimize for your exact need, or even know that there is no change that will yield better results. The time to work this out is before you plunk down dollar one on any change, not after you tried something and found it didn't yield the improvement you had hoped for. Getting it wrong may mean a slight improvement on the hiway but will tear up clutches and drivelines getting started, or may even give no advantage on the hiway and still tear up clutches and drivelines. That is why, as someone who has done it, I say do your homework! Been there done that and got the T shirt, I saw the results I saw exactly because it put the time in, and the results were exactly what the math predicted it would be. With modern electronic engines, they can do well in a broader range of RPM and load, so the answer you get may well be stay with what you have. I am not being obtuse or mean, I am giving you the experience of someone who actually has done it. There are no shortcuts that will give good results.

Homework grade F! No one can answer that question without knowing how and where the truck is operating. the roads (or lack of them) and the loading and unloading under what conditions. You want simple answers and there aren't any. The mfg chose the ratio the truck came with, to fit the widest range of operation. That was a guess, if you want to optimize for your operation you HAVE to do the math and plot it out. If you are not willing or able to do so, save your money you would spend on a ratio change and put it into fuel, it will be the best bang for the buck.

Only thing I'd add is DO YOUR HOMEWORK! don't guess, look at BSFC figures and base your desired operating speed to match that, realize often a small change makes big a difference, that is both good and bad, as if you are close but not right where you need to be, it could be a wasted effort. I did my Marmon and gained 3/4 to 1 MPG in my operation. I was mostly on hiway 65MPH and could make my selection based on that. I had a 15 spd Eaton that could handle the low end, but went with 2 spd rears anyway. I did a full spreadsheet, looking at starting ratio, and what it would do to hill climbing power, where the engine would be at differing speeds in all gears. When I did the swap, everything was where the math said it would be, made a much more "driveable" truck for my use. That said, I have heard from many that made swaps based on "what someone else said would be better" or a seat of the pants "guess" and were unhappy (not surprisingly) with the outcome. Your truck and engine are new enough you should be able to get the BSFC graphs, you need to really log your usage and look at all you need it to do, starting in soft ground etc. before making a choice. It may take more gears in the trans to make use of the gears in the back to their best. If you just slow it down in the rear, you may have trouble getting out of soft ground loaded. It is a whole system, and needs to be looked at that way. In my opinion, 10 spds have too much ratio gaps, but I was working on older, mechanical engines, designed for many ratio transmissions (13 or more gears). Still the starting ability on soft ground is still something you need to keep in mind.

That is Canada, so likely 0.97 per liter. Gas was not anywhere near .97/gal in 1989.

All my trucks had the starter and air start tank on the drivers side, but they were Cat and Cummins. I don't think you would put the air start tank on one side the the starter on the other. My '89 had dual 150's, but some O/O types ran more than that. Then theft becomes bigger risk.

Old steel tanks like his and mine, USED to cost around $1.00/gal and Aluminum was $2.00/gal. I was in for sticker shock when I went looking before repairing what I had. They are very expensive now. I fixed what I had rather than pay the stupid prices. They were not all that much cheaper than the Aluminum one quoted above.

Ok, someone put a newer tank on there. Step tanks up to the late 70's have the Tolhiem access plate, as both Ford and IHC big Gassers used that in tank pump. That tank is from a later year, when the gassers were no more and diesel was the fuel of choice. When you put it back, do yourself a favor and either get some strap webbing or make some by cutting an old inner tube to put between the strap and tank. Everything flexes and it will rust and wear a hole under the strap.

Vlad, If his tank is like any of my step tanks, they have a plate on top for access to the Tolhiem pump that was original fuel pump for the truck. With that removed, there is plenty of room to get your whole arm in the tank. It is a large "D" shaped opening. My tanks tended to rust out under the "bands" and around the step area. I can take pictures of what I'm talking about, but it will be obvious once the tank is out.

Bocky, you bring up something that happened to me last week. I was traveling to my brothers house in DMZ IA, and saw Love's had the cheapest unleaded. I pulled in and started to pump, no where around the grade selection buttons did it say anything other than "unleaded, Super unleaded and "premium" But on the top of the pump there was a little area that stated all fuel other than premium were 15% alcohol while "premium" was 10%. Around me, they have the alcohol content labeled at the selection buttons. I stopped pumping (I was driving a pre 2001, which is not supposed to have that much alcohol). Buyer beware! I buy Premium with no alcohol for my '84 Saab, 10% for my Toyota, The K-7 burns a lot when it is run, but gets run not much. Still that was, what I would call deceptive on Love's part. You can (and most stations do) put the alcohol content above or below the grade selection button. They have seen the last of my money!

It is my understanding that the LV (as well as Ford SD) have in tank Tolhiem fuel pumps, no? so at least the evaporation problem that many of us struggle with (fuel evaporates from the carb, fuel pump) is a non issue and should prime quickly. I have similar step tanks on my K and similar rust problems. You can increase the filter size or keep many on hand. Clear filters can help see the problem before it plugs.