Geoff Weeks

Oh, yeah I know, a small change in ratio makes a huge difference. I went from 3.90's single speed to 4.11 two speeds and gain nearly 1 MPG! Truck was geared too fast for the speeds I ran (65). I know in some jurisdiction it is illegal to have axle controls accessible to the driver, I went through that. My solution was frame controls that also could have the axle dumped and or raise in the cab. When inspected it was frame, in use it was done from the cab. Made for some complicated air plumbing, but got me through Calif and Alberta without getting sidelined. Never ordered a new truck, so I was always retro fitting, I do know if I did order, I wouldn't accept anything less than the order, but my situation is likely different than yours was. I had a couple of "extra" trucks in the yard, so I could wait until the one I was up grading was done and continue to work with another in the mean time. The two speeds came about because believe it or not, I could buy 2 spd cores for less money than singles! "Nobody runs 2 speeds any more". Yeah they were old cores, and I already had the rear-rear in a single axle parts truck. I just needed the front. That one was supposed to have been "rebuilt" and the ratio I wanted, but once I got it, found it was not what they thought, still cheap enough to throw a new ring and pinion on. They had it sitting in the warehouse for so long, they jumped at the chance to unload it. IIRC it was $1100 no core. Bearings and powerdivider were all new. Once I got them installed, I found how much I loved having all the ratios available with that set-up. It wasn't the ideal match to the trans (Eaton 15 O/D) but with careful matching would have been even better than it was.

I carried a mounted spare in the trailer frame, 40 min inside or out, and I was back rolling. The beauty of spoke wheels. Blew on 1 mile before the Broadus scale one summer. Normally I'd limp in someplace safe, but had to change on the side of 212. Summer heat and I was dripping when I finely crossed the scale. I had a carrier on my trailer, but the owner didn't have them on his. A mounted 20 or 22.5 tire with a pair of 2x4's across the frame. To get the tire up you needed to winch it with a 2" strap, then lie on your back and with your feet manhandle one side past the frame flange, then the other. Getting it down was no problem. Getting the blown one up was even more fun. Most times I demounted and dealt with each piece separately.

Air ride should be about the same loaded and un loaded, that is one of its claim to fame. If any rear suspension or frame work has been done (lengthening or shortening) check driveshaft angles. Also make sure the U joint is in proper phase with eachother. If a new jack-shaft was added to the driveline (for longer frame) make sure it is at the same angle as the transmission or the forward jackshaft. (most often pitched down between 2 and 6 deg). Drive axle out of align can act like a tire out of balance and will eventually wear a flat spot in the steer tires, but is generally smooth with new tires and gradually comes on as they wear. Next, pull the 1/2 shafts (axle shafts and run it up to speed in top gear and see if the vibration is still present, If the driveline uses jack shafts, you can drop out the shafts one by one (starting at the back) until the vibration stops when run up to speed. Also (CAREFULLY) hold you palm near the spinning shaft to see if there is run-out your eyes can't see. It doesn't take much. Lastly measure the drive shaft sections yoke to yoke and working length and plug the numbers into Spicer's calculator to see if you are getting the vibration at 1/2 critical speed or if any sections are running near critical speed when you get the vibration. You'll need to know how fast the shaft is turning when you get the vibration. If top gear is direct, that is easy, just read off the tach, if not, you have to multiply by the O/D ratio.

Nope a few years old than that, not that it matters, once your body decides enough is enough, it doesn't care about the calendar I didn't plan on stopping this early but sometimes you have to go with the flow.

Wow, that's bad, but I never owned a truck newer than 1992, but have worked on plenty newer than that. All I saw was why I stuck with what I had. I can certainly understand wanting a auto where you operate. What was the answer to the ratio fiasco? I wouldn't have though it would have been hard for the dealer to correct?

Funny you should mention fuel senders, that is one thing I need to do on the ;42. From what I have read 40's Fords use the same King Seeley gauges as IHC did, and a sender for them should work on the IHC gauges. The Step Tanks have the same 6 bolt sender pattern as the early Fords. Dennis Carpenter re-pop's the Ford sender. In the 23 years I've owned the truck, it never had a working gauge. When fuel was cheaper, I just filled the 35 gal tank and kept tract of the mileage. Now with fuel where it is and a 50 gal tank, that is less appealing, A working gauge would be nice. I have the arm off the old sender for the step tank so I can mate it to the Ford sender. Later IHC's used a different gauge (old AC resistance pattern) so the original is a non-starter.

Last time I was around a Yellow tractor I noticed it was leased. Trailers and gear are another matter.

I've never seen one come apart, but I don't think it is worth the risk. I noticed they said the guarantee the thermocouple, yeah great you'll replace the $50 part but I'm on the hook for the replacement turbo, no thanks. I routinely saw north of 1000 deg pulling hard with no problems. oil cooled pistons keep the aluminum ones from cracking, newer stuff uses steel composite pistons, steel crown with aluminum body. Even the older ones used a steel 1st groove.

After cancer surgery and years of working on other equipment, I am more or less done. I still do most of my own, but when the wife's daily driver needed a fuel tank, it went off to the shop. I put new tank straps on it, but no way was I going to try and drop the tank on my back. I have to pull the power unit from my Saab Turbo to replace the transmission, I have been putting that off for over a year. Either its too cold, too hot or another project takes precedence. Now that I have the brakes, driveshaft and fuel tanks done on my '42 K so I have something to drive, I am running out of excuses for not getting the Saab done. After every big job, I tell myself "no more!" if something else needs doing, either pay someone or it doesn't need doing all that bad!

Pyro's thrermocouple are placed down stream of the turbo so if the tip fails (burns off or breaks) it doesn't take out the turbine wheel. 1300deg F is considered the max temp, ahead of the turbo, with 1100-1200 post turbo. Some manifolds have plugs pre turbo for diagnoistic purposes but for running full time, I have only seen them after the turbo.

Delco 30 and 35MT were made with internal and external indexable nose cones. They were SAE 1, 2 and 3 cones made. Does anybody know if the SAE1 cone was made in external indexable style? I have only found internal so far. I have a 30MT with a SAE2 external that I want to use on another application.

Paul, read this whole thread again, then say I am being a bully! Why does how long I have been a member make a damn bit of difference to the issues I point out?

Unless someone is holding you captive, I don't think anyone is forcing you into a gay relationship. I don't think a gay should be forced in to a straight relationship either. Tolerance is all I am looking for. To accept that there other view than my own and be able to live with that without putting someone else down. I don't have to live their life nor they mine. Just accept that there are other ways than the path I choose. That is all I am asking for this site, to welcome all without prejudiced to the hobby.

It might be interesting to ponder the paradox that when those words were first uttered, slavery was legal. Does freedom extend to the LBTQ people here or just to white males? I get damn sick or seeing hate spewed in the name of freedom. If freedom to you means you can spew what you want without being called out for it there are places in this world where the state position is that of some views expressed here. Iran, the Taliban, and the Russian federation, have all expressed similar views as states. I don't think all people in those places think like that, however. I am here because I like old trucks. If someone is looking for help, I don't need to 1st find out what his (or her) back ground is, if they are white male and straight. I don't care, or want to know who they curl up with at night! As a trucker, I found all parades to be a pain in my butt, except the ATHS one I was a part of, Although they are a pain in my butt, and I don't share the enthusiasm for what is being celebrated, I am glad that we have the ability to do so in this country. I used to loath having to deliver in western South Dakota during bike week, but I support their right to hold it. For some reason the "old greasy mechanical" hobby seams to have a problem. This isn't the 1st site where I have written something like the above. I was surprised after doing so, the people who reached out to say that they felt dumped on by the hatred. Yep, there are gay people that like the same stuff we do! Freedom means tolerance for other view points, if you don't have that, you are not free. Ask them in Iran about that. I am not here to find bed partners and if that is your goal, you are in the wrong place. It shouldn't matter what someone else chooses. There are people from all over the world that come here, may be I am a shameless liberal, but that is all that matters to me. I don't care about their position on the war in Ukraine or who the love. The fact that we share a common fondness for old greasy things, is all the commonality I need. In the "Land of the free" we only recently got rid of the "No Jews" and even more recently got rid of the "Whites only" signs. I think this thread has no place here. If in writing this, I am black-balled from this site, so be it, I think we both loose, but if the cost of being here is sitting on my hands while hate is spewed on "others" the cost to be a member is too high.

Do as it says, fill to bead, the bottom will be full also. If you don't have enough oil in it, it doesn't clean the air. Oil Bath filters restriction remains constant over the service interval. They clean better then a "new" paper filter, but slightly less than a used paper filter that has some time on it. As long as they are serviced at regular intervals they last a life time. Some of the buses I worked on had oil baths the size of a waste basket and took more than a gal of oil.

https://www.powersystemstoday.com/parts/search/gerhart-machinery-co-lititz-pennsylvania?LocationID=350007704819&SearchType=Start Claims to have 3 N.O.S. but doesn't say how much. From the Pic shown they are Trico's. I would contact Rome about rebuilding yours. Also there might be a Sprague replacement for the Trico.

Air wipers are simple. Rome Truck Parts, is a source for wiper parts. Trico wipers are hard to find replacements for but Sprague motors can often be set right with under $3 in O rings. I don't know what motors you have, do you have a picture?

My Marmon uses an almost identical unit to the Red Dot in my Mack sleeper. From what I remember, the thermostat control on the sleeper wall turns the fan on and off based on temp. The thermostat goes bad and fan doesn't run. As Joey suggests check for power to the fan, if there is power but no fan, then the fan is at fault, if there is no power it could be the fan resistor or the control board.

The O/P'er said he removed the line and checked for that. It is a good first thing to check.

There is a line from the brake service line to the spring brake relay with anti compounding or separate anti compounding valve. If that valve is defective it will pipe air for the spring brakes to the service line to the chambers, the quick release portion of the service relay will be open and will dump the air. When the brakes are pressed the 1st thing that happens is the quick release portion of the service relay closes. Without being there and seeing exactly what is happening, that is my best guess with the info we have now. Inversion valve is another possibility.

May be I am mis understanding here. My understanding is that it is leaking out back on the frame by the brakes, not at the buttons on the dash. A photo of the valve that is leaking would help. As previously stated, there a a few places the service and spring brake systems interact. knowing where the air is coming out will help. It may not be the valve that the air is coming out that is the problem, it may be another valve that is letting spring brake air into the service brake lines.

If it uses a compression nut and "olive", they can stick, sometimes there is no out but cutting. If you have to replace, make sure the old and new are the same length. When the tubes on my cabovers rusted, I replaced with stainless tube. the end that the dipstick tightens in (bell mouth) was just brazed onto the tube, and I transferred to the new stainless. That said my cabover might be different from what you have. A picture would help. The fitting that screws into the block is two parts, you hold the bottom and turn the top hex. Kinda sounds like the bottom is turning with the top, keeping the tube captive.

well pre-121 is a single line system which also plays into it. One res for all brakes. Also tractors weren't required to have front brakes (steer brakes) until sometime in the 80's. Many did, but not all.

The reason it stops, is because before you apply it is venting air that the valve doesn't think should be in that line. It is like when you had you foot on the brake, and let off, all the air doesn't go back up and vent out the foot valve, it would make the brakes very slow to release. so quick release valves or relay valves, when they loose service brake pressure from upstream, vent everything down stream. Once you supply service pressure from the foot valve, the vent is closed and pressure allowed to build in the service line to the chamber. How big is this leak? does it vent all the air and the compressor can't build until you step on the brake? or is it a small leak that stops when the service brake is applied?

Also if this truck has anti-lock brakes there is another whole can of worms.