Geoff Weeks

Not really, they are heavier (a small bit) than aluminum hub pilot, but lighter than steel disks. The weight difference is so small as to be a non-factor. A few hundred pounds between the heaviest and lightest is hard to justify. Spoke hubs the spokes are hollow, the drum is inboard and so lighter (doesn't have to extend over the hub and wheel studs). rims are lighter. Somewhere I have seen the weight of each type hub, complete with tires, the difference was not as much as they want you to believe. Far more weight can be shaved on other spec's than the hub type. Steel disks are the heaviest, then steel spokes then aluminum disks, then aluminum super singles. You don't see many aluminum frame tractors anymore but they were lighter, weight isn't everything.

I am again, going to suggest looking for a whole core engine. Talk to the independent shops, tell them what you are looking for, they may know of a yard or even a customer that has some "junk" trucks that would be willing to part them out. 1st find out what heads will work. If it were a Cummins, I could tell you, I don't know Mack engines that well. I might even try Reading truck (used to be called something else, big truck equipment co) in SLC as they outfitted the Utah DOT Macks, they may know where to find used Mack stuff Once you know what heads will work, then go in person to places, most will not put in the time on the phone or internet inquires, If they don't have it, they just say no and move on, in person they may send you to the service mgr who may know where what you are looking for can be found. Most places will do all they can for someone standing in front of them. Be prepared to buy a whole core engine, many will not want an engine missing a head sitting in the yard, As I have said, whole cores can be had for less than the rebuilt heads you were trying to find. I would stick to cores that will turn 360 deg or even better running cores. Dealers aren't the best for this stuff, they deal in new and don't see the old stuff, plenty of independent shops around SLC, I don't know much about south or east Utah. I don't know where you are located. With a whole core engine, you get core injectors, which you'll need or have to pay core charge, and more spare parts than you can shake a stick at, in the long run it will pay for itself and the repair of the engine you have now.

I would not buy tires until you need them. They will age just sitting. If you have 10.00x 20's you will not have a problem finding them when the time comes. If you want to go tubeless, most sizes will not be too hard to find, new or re-con rims would be needed. My tire shop will re con rims, (blast and paint) cheaper than I can do it. I must admit I never gave them a tube type to do, as I didn't trust them not to loose or mis match the lock rings when I got the rim back. IIRC it was $45 to blast and paint, might have been $35 I preferred tires made in S Korea or one of the other SE Asia countries over China, Most countries down there mfg tires. I stuck with Khumo's or Hankook's but I was running them commercially. I have been running tube types long enough to have had Goodyear and BF Goodrich tube types, but they stopped making them in the 90's I think. If you not loading them, and just going to shows, the cheap China imports will likely do.

This isn't a "stuck" injector, it is one that has been peened in like a rivet. The nozzle end has been hit and expanded like the end of a rivet. A true machinist should be able to mill the nozzle end off and press the injector out. Injector is ruined but you don't want to do more damage than has already been done to the injector copper area at the bottom of the hole. This too has to be replaced (injector copper). A place that claims they can fix that head, should be able to and have dealt with this problem before. I'd contact them 1st and see, they might say just send it as is. The last thing you want to do is make it worse. I'm not convinced that head can be successfully (at least economically successful) repaired. Injector is junk, valve seats are junk, injector hole and copper are at least damaged, worse case mill the injector out like you were boring the raw casing. That is not a job for a DIY or even most engine machine shops, it is a specialists job, and that is where this head should be going anyway.

I believe Frank lives in Stonewall county between FT Worth and Lubbock, but you'd have to contact and ask him if you are serious. I've never met the man.

Also there is an adjustable restriction on the exh side of the motor. It keeps the motor and blade from "flopping" too fast to the other side. Keeping pressure on both sides of the motor piston keeps the speed steady regardless of load. Too much restriction (back pressure) and the motor will be slow or not move at all, too little and it will slam side to side too fast. The control knob can vary the speed of the sweep but the exhaust restriction can also. On full speed, with a wet glass, you want it to move quickly but with no "flop".

Looks like the terminal at the top may be 2 terminals, with a fuseable link between them. Hard to tell for sure, I am trying to find others on the .net to compare.

That concerns me also. Generally speaking, you can drill or cut holes in the vertical web of the frame and not loose much strength, but no holes or cuts on the top or bottom flange. That cut right in front of the spring hanger, subject to steering forces is something I would have to address. That has a major hole and multiple minor holes in the web right where the top flange has been removed. Please consult a good frame shop before going further.

Yes, I still have it but will be selling at some point. That is Marmons integral sleeper and cab. I bought it used, like all my stuff. I bought it from the original owner who bought it "off the lot" (dealer stock order). All flat glass, so easy to replace. 425 Cat Eaton 14615B trans DT 402 (4.11/5.63) on 20" spokes.

Yes there has to be air pressure, but not much 10 psi should be more than enough to make the switch activate.

While I was looking, Barnhart's Pacific and my cabover hauling a line of Golhoffer trailers.

The one with the snowplows was on Hank's website, snapped by a tourist, the other is the three I ran, the small cabover in the fore ground was the back-up tractor. Marmon started life with 8 lug Motor wheels, and the big bunk had stud pilot originally On the snowplow pic, front drive axle has 10Rx20's on it.

I don't know where you guys are from, but I knew what he was after, the inside of the door, often a heavy fiber backed carpet or vinyl "Card".

Last I knew you could still order replacement trailer axles with spokes. I don't know about tractors axles. It is not hard to true spokes, but it does take the correct procedure. Any monkey with a 1" impact can over torque a disk wheel. When I had my tractor in for a front end alignment, the shop (a major truck tire shop) foreman commented I could teach their guys a thing or two about mounting Spokes. It is not hard to get them true, and I have noticed no wear problems or life difference between tires on disks and spokes I have one spoke wheel (tube type) that I am going to have to clean up and take a picture of. Some monkey with a 1" air impact tried to "torque them straight) and the rim is pulled into a 5 point star on the inner diameter and the lock ring is pulled out of the groove in between the spokes, never the less the assembly stayed intact and was run down the road. The amazing thing was the torque on that 3/4" stud! it held, how I don't know. I have had multiple cracked disk wheels, both hub and stud pilot, and multiple fractured wheel studs with disks. Since all of my stuff was used, I can never be sure of prior treatment. Repeated over torque of wheel studs has been a real problem, and you can't know what was done in the past. I changed my linehauls to spoke wheels and only the reserve tractor still had stud pilot disks. Somewhat like the argument of tubeless over tube type. People love to compare today's tires against the tube type's from the 70's or earlier. 70's tires were crap whether they were tube or tubeless. I am one of the few that was buying and running 10Rx20's. Not only did they last every bit as long as the tubeless 11Rx22.5's but capped as many times (I ran three treads off my tires, original, two caps, most would take a 3rd cap but the casing wouldn't last until the 3rd cap was worn, so I scrapped after two caps). Only thing bad about them is the tubes available are crap these days, if not used in a year, they crack and degrade sitting in their sealed bag on the shelf. I had started phasing them out toward the end because of the tube issue. A few years ago, I saw a brand new side dump trailer in transit to its 1st owner, It was a tri axle on 24" tube types on hub pilot wheels! That was an odd duck!

I never will understand the draw of disk wheels, minimum 10 (8 for Motor wheels, but they are mostly gone from the market) fasteners to get a wheel off 20 on inner stud pilot. 5 or 6 and I can have any rim off a spoke. Less torque on the nuts, so can easily change with hand tools. Lighter, don't crack, only draw back is inboard drums, but I know of a few shops that pull the wheels and hub together when doing brakes, regardless of inboard or outboard drums, their reason is they don't want a leaky seal to ruin a good brake job regardless if they changed the seal or not, they would be blamed, so might as well pull, inspect bearings and replace the seal on a brake change.

west Texas

Also county owned stuff can be weird, they spec it for a job and may gear it low to prevent clutch wear and speeding. Many times if you are employed by a government entity you don't have to have a CDL. I've seen ex county stuff with real weird spec 's 45 top speed. I saw a Loadstar tandem axle dump, 392 gasser and juice brakes on a 40K GVW. I doubt you could get that thing over 35 mph fully loaded, but you'd be crazy to want too with juice brakes. When the county or other agency spec's it, resale value is not even on the table.

As we go back to the 1st page on this, there still are questions asked but not answered. There are a total of 6 connections on the voltage regulator he took a picture of. As far as I know, the connection at the top has never been identified. The system is not a complex one, but if the O/P is not able to trace out where stuff is hooked to, where the wires go and what voltage they carry, I can not help from this end. If I were there, it would be a different story. As I have said, I have a very similar set up myself. It is not identical esp in the regulator. The field on these is isolated, you can ground one side and regulate the other to hold the voltage, or you can feed hot to one side and regulate the ground to hold voltage. Either way will work, and everything else is a secondary problem (like the relay connecting the output to the rest of the electrical system). IF voltage regulation is the problem, it is limited to the connections that make up the field circuit. If the O/P is unable to answer the questions or doesn't understand them, can't or will not trace wires, then the answer is obvious, replace with a single wire alternator and get on with your life. If you want to keep it period correct, you are going to have to do the things above that I mentioned. I can not from this end of a key board. These are simple systems, but they do require a bit of knowledge of electrical systems. I am not being harsh, but if you don't know, you either need someone on your end to teach or you need to move to something that is even more simple like a one wire system. Unlike a generator, where it needs to be polarized and have the current regulated, alternators are simple devices. We have no idea what he used to replace the rectifier, if it is 1/2 wave or full wave, of how it is connected, what its rating is for PIV or current. I was hoping a picture might indicate what he has, but so far no picture. Until there is more info, more cooperation I can't be of more help, and am going to leave this thread be. Good luck!

Can you get a picture of what you replaced it with?

That is one nasty looking air wiper. What does your compressor/air tanks look like?

Nothing wrong with the concept, it is implementation that has all the problems. I stayed with old school stuff until the end, it worked for me, but could also see the newer stuff getting better mileage and less fatigue for the driver. Because I did all my own work, the advantage of slightly better mileage was overruled by the cost of parts for the newer equipment. If I can overhaul an old engine for $1500 in parts, it is hard to justify the fuel cost for the newer stuff paying the difference. None of this addresses the reliability issue. Of all my trucks in 30 some odd years, only twice have any been "on the hook" and then only for a few miles, both times it was a fuel related issue. They were worked hard, and still managed to stay off the "hook".

If it were me, I'd be shopping for a core engine. Preferably a "running core". I have had one "repaired" head, and it failed. 6-71 that had a head crack. I know Cummins are fairly easy to find, I don't know about Mack's of that vintage. $1300-$1500 is what I paid. With the core engine, you get two heads, and plenty of other spare parts. I don't think you'll find a head for that.

John Hancock can be found on JOT, but I don't think that is his, he just took and posted the picture. Doubt it is going to be for sale at this point.

A good machine shop is a great tool to have your back pocket. Anything made by man can be re made by man, all it takes is money.

To be clear: You need BOTH positive and Negative diode sets, not one or the other. Which ever polarity the vehicle is, that diode set can be mounted to any metal, the other set has to be isolated. Although the old one was mounted to a metal bracket, there were insulators between the fins and the metal bracket. The old one didn't have either positive or negative connected electrically to the bracket that held it.