Geoff Weeks

Sometimes smaller electric driven hyd pumps used a similar coupling. All else fails, I would machine one out of Durlain (sp?) Hard nylon type stuff that is somewhat self lubing.

Never got to work on an 8, but plenty of 6LXB's in the buses. Loved that engine, slow turning and great on fuel. They were a work of art. I have a side cover with the Gardner script I was going to make into a belt buckle, and a piston from one on my "wall of shame".

The small cams, I don't know. I had a Bic cam1 that was a '78 build 400 (CPL 324?) There was also the long stroke version for a very short time 929? Cid Must had problems 'cause it didn't stick around long, Known as the super 250.

I don't know if it is still the case here, but at one time, the truck mfg had to meet total noise emitted to be allowed. They had oil pan covers to limit the noise emitted from there and foam under the hood. Most oil pan covers got removed early on, and foam under hood got loose and fell off. A 88 White I drove with an L10 had the oil pan cover, and as I say, My '92 Marmon had some still left under the hood. Most has fallen off by this point. The more they silenced the engine, the more they could emit from the exhaust, as it was a total noise reading they had to meet. quieting the exhaust came with drawbacks that silencing other noise didn't. (Back pressure)

My guess is noise reduction. My Marmon had foam on the hood. There were foam covers on oil pans to reduce noise.

That tank was off a 1983 IHC cabover.

Here are some pictures of a top tank off a core 1st pic is the top tank as it sits ontop of the rad 2nd is of a bleed hole between the top of the core to the expansion tank 3rd is a pic of the tank where it bolts onto the core, you'll note the upper hose connection passes thru the expansion tank to the upper core area. Most all of the coolant passes down through the core, but any air can pass out the little bleed hole (a very minor amount of coolant does also) the last picture is the 1" or so line that goes to the inlet side of the water pump, any coolant you add to the expansion tank enters the engine from this line. Any coolant that passes from the bleed hole returns to the block this way also. On the Big Cam engine this rad was hooked too also had a bleed from the top of the water cooled aftercooler and the engine upper waterrail. as well as one more 1/4" NPT port for a low coolant sensor.

Last time I looked, the power equipment was all leased (from Ryder IIRC) the trailers and gear they owned. I still see the CF tractor on a farm somewhere.

That is very similar to my Marmon top tank. You'll notice it is much bigger than the top of the "core", and if you look down through the filler, you'll not see the rad tubes. It is an integral de airation tank. It still can push coolant out, if overfilled. As long as it doesn't continue to force stuff out every time you run it, I wouldn't worry. I've got a few top tanks not mounted to cores, I'll see if I can get a picture to show how they work. The idea is to keep all air bubbles from mixing in the coolant and bursting on the hot metal inside the engine. By keeping the "reserve tank" on the top of the radiator and out of the main circulating coolant, the air that is in the system makes its way to that tank, keeping the main flow air free. Older radiators the cap looked right down on the top of the radiator tubes, the main flow of coolant was exposed to the air at the top of the tank and high flow would tumble and pick up some air and bring it into the engine.

Shine a light in and see if you see radiator tubes, I'd be shocked if you could. My early 80's vintage stuff all had a divided top tank, the cap is on the de airation section. Also 10 PSI sound high, most I think were 4 or7 psi, but I am used to older stuff.

WSJ is reporting Yellow "official shut down today". RIP

Most trucks of that vintage had a "de-airation" tank on the top of the radiator. The tank you fill doesn't empty directly on to the tubes of the radiator. The top tank most often drains into the suction side of the waterpump. There is a small hole or line, the vents any air in the engine or on top of the radiator tubes into the de-airation tank. A very small amount of coolant is allowed to circulate right back to the waterpump. The idea is to get all the air out of the coolant circulating within the engine and radiator. The de airation tank is also an expansion tank. There are many kinds of necks and some will not allow it to fill the tank all the way to the top so it will not puke out, other like my Marmon you can fill all the way up and it will puke a little out if you don't stop with the coolant down a little from the top. I don't know how yours is set up.

Just a thought. It would be hard to correct if it were the cause, correction, it would expensive to correct.

Oil, soot, rubber or algae, 1st you have to determine what it is, before you can guess at where it came from.

I think you said somewhere that the truck never hits top gear, Speed limited to 65 and locked out of top until 64. I have to wonder if that isn't the problem and puts too much heat into the trans. Just thinking out loud. If so that is going to be a hard thing to resolve with the current running gear.

What got me off of tube types was the quality of the tubes. They would do ok when in a tire, but store one folded on the shelf or in the side compartment, and the rubber would crack at the folds. I talked to tire shops and they saw the same thing, shelf life on a new tube was a year at best. They didn't want to stock them, because if they didn't go in a tire in a year, they had to throw them out. Tube type tires on the other hand were every bit as good as the tubeless. Super singles, you almost have to have auto inflation system or tire pressure monitor, to prevent disaster, and I've seen a auto inflation malfunction in the cold, and drain a tire! I just can't see the cost/benefit ratio working out with SS. I know some swear by them, but I see too much to go wrong. A spare tire and rim is cheap for duals and allows the same tires to fit all positions. I ran 3 treads on my tires, Original and capped twice before discard. I tried a 3 cap but they never made it until the tread wore out. Always only capped my own casings. (Not hard when you are the only one running 10.00R X20's). I tried to keep my "spare" tire a tubeless, incase it had to be replaced, or I needed more than one tire (never happened, but could). A 295/80 22.5 can run next to an 11R 22.5 and a pair can support 16,000 lbs, so unless you are running 20K fronts, and need the extra 4K, spec'ing 295/80's on the steer, allows them to be capped for drive or trailer, later in life.

I used to see a "spare" tire and rim tucked up under the converter dollies, do they not do that anymore? May be it was the old LTL union carriers like the Big R, CF etc, but they all seamed to have one on the converter. I ran all "hiway tread" in all positions (old heavy hauler trick, rib tread runs cooler) so one spare could be used anywhere on the rig. Some tire service companies charge an arm and a leg for a tire. Having my own even if it wasn't on a rim or the correct rim (I.E was on spoke, but the trailer had hub-pilot) saved a lot of money. Add: Super singles: Nope not doing those. But wouldn't have them on any of my equipment either. Just about any blow-out and your looking at a rim also.

When you pay for the service call out of your profits, it works out to your paying yourself between $50-$100 (minimum) per hour or more depending on miles on the call-out, to do the tire change yourself. That is the difference between owning the business and being an employee. As an employee I wouldn't want to do it either, but if they offered me $100/hr I'd think about it.

Oh, yeah I know, a small change in ratio makes a huge difference. I went from 3.90's single speed to 4.11 two speeds and gain nearly 1 MPG! Truck was geared too fast for the speeds I ran (65). I know in some jurisdiction it is illegal to have axle controls accessible to the driver, I went through that. My solution was frame controls that also could have the axle dumped and or raise in the cab. When inspected it was frame, in use it was done from the cab. Made for some complicated air plumbing, but got me through Calif and Alberta without getting sidelined. Never ordered a new truck, so I was always retro fitting, I do know if I did order, I wouldn't accept anything less than the order, but my situation is likely different than yours was. I had a couple of "extra" trucks in the yard, so I could wait until the one I was up grading was done and continue to work with another in the mean time. The two speeds came about because believe it or not, I could buy 2 spd cores for less money than singles! "Nobody runs 2 speeds any more". Yeah they were old cores, and I already had the rear-rear in a single axle parts truck. I just needed the front. That one was supposed to have been "rebuilt" and the ratio I wanted, but once I got it, found it was not what they thought, still cheap enough to throw a new ring and pinion on. They had it sitting in the warehouse for so long, they jumped at the chance to unload it. IIRC it was $1100 no core. Bearings and powerdivider were all new. Once I got them installed, I found how much I loved having all the ratios available with that set-up. It wasn't the ideal match to the trans (Eaton 15 O/D) but with careful matching would have been even better than it was.

I carried a mounted spare in the trailer frame, 40 min inside or out, and I was back rolling. The beauty of spoke wheels. Blew on 1 mile before the Broadus scale one summer. Normally I'd limp in someplace safe, but had to change on the side of 212. Summer heat and I was dripping when I finely crossed the scale. I had a carrier on my trailer, but the owner didn't have them on his. A mounted 20 or 22.5 tire with a pair of 2x4's across the frame. To get the tire up you needed to winch it with a 2" strap, then lie on your back and with your feet manhandle one side past the frame flange, then the other. Getting it down was no problem. Getting the blown one up was even more fun. Most times I demounted and dealt with each piece separately.

Air ride should be about the same loaded and un loaded, that is one of its claim to fame. If any rear suspension or frame work has been done (lengthening or shortening) check driveshaft angles. Also make sure the U joint is in proper phase with eachother. If a new jack-shaft was added to the driveline (for longer frame) make sure it is at the same angle as the transmission or the forward jackshaft. (most often pitched down between 2 and 6 deg). Drive axle out of align can act like a tire out of balance and will eventually wear a flat spot in the steer tires, but is generally smooth with new tires and gradually comes on as they wear. Next, pull the 1/2 shafts (axle shafts and run it up to speed in top gear and see if the vibration is still present, If the driveline uses jack shafts, you can drop out the shafts one by one (starting at the back) until the vibration stops when run up to speed. Also (CAREFULLY) hold you palm near the spinning shaft to see if there is run-out your eyes can't see. It doesn't take much. Lastly measure the drive shaft sections yoke to yoke and working length and plug the numbers into Spicer's calculator to see if you are getting the vibration at 1/2 critical speed or if any sections are running near critical speed when you get the vibration. You'll need to know how fast the shaft is turning when you get the vibration. If top gear is direct, that is easy, just read off the tach, if not, you have to multiply by the O/D ratio.

Nope a few years old than that, not that it matters, once your body decides enough is enough, it doesn't care about the calendar I didn't plan on stopping this early but sometimes you have to go with the flow.

Wow, that's bad, but I never owned a truck newer than 1992, but have worked on plenty newer than that. All I saw was why I stuck with what I had. I can certainly understand wanting a auto where you operate. What was the answer to the ratio fiasco? I wouldn't have though it would have been hard for the dealer to correct?

Funny you should mention fuel senders, that is one thing I need to do on the ;42. From what I have read 40's Fords use the same King Seeley gauges as IHC did, and a sender for them should work on the IHC gauges. The Step Tanks have the same 6 bolt sender pattern as the early Fords. Dennis Carpenter re-pop's the Ford sender. In the 23 years I've owned the truck, it never had a working gauge. When fuel was cheaper, I just filled the 35 gal tank and kept tract of the mileage. Now with fuel where it is and a 50 gal tank, that is less appealing, A working gauge would be nice. I have the arm off the old sender for the step tank so I can mate it to the Ford sender. Later IHC's used a different gauge (old AC resistance pattern) so the original is a non-starter.

Last time I was around a Yellow tractor I noticed it was leased. Trailers and gear are another matter.