Geoff Weeks

I can see it as possible if the seal was installed behind the outer race of the outer bearing and sealed on the spindle, but would make the hub hard to install without damaging the seal. The question is why? If going to all that trouble, than why not have both run in oil? I'm curious because I have never run across it. Greased bearing have some advantages, and some drawbacks, but you have to seal the oil in somewhere, and doing either before or after the bearing both have good reason for that method, have one oil and one grease leave you with the disadvantages of both.

Do you have a pictorial diagram of that? I've worked on plenty of greased wheel bearing/full floating axles, but never seen one with a seal between the inner and outer wheel bearing? I trying to imagine how that would work in practice, and I can't see why it would be done? Either seal at the axle tube and grease the bearings, or let the oil spill and seal at the spindle. I've seen a few different ways used to keep oil off the bearings, but never one oil and one greased.

Every truck junkyard has a ton of mounts. If you stick to the same brand, you can keep your 5th wheel and just replace the mount. Otherwise you can buy the whole thing. They are not "adjustable". The mount determines the height off the frame.

With plastic tanks and aluminum cores today, the old radiator shop in every city is a thing of the past. I had one in Omaha that was excellent, custom cores were no problem, recored my 1942, my Marmon and custom cores for my IHC 9670's. Unfortunately, closed a few years back, no idea where to go now.

Take it off, lay it on the bench and look all over the fitting, either that or take the whole hose to your hose shop, The pictures are not clear enough, nor do they show all sides. On the fitting I photo'd above, the "10" is on only one of the 6 flats of the hex. It has DOT stamp on it and some other numbers, also. If you don't know what you are dealing with, the best solution is to take it to someone that does. I can't do that from this end of the keyboard. a -6 would be 11/16" across the flats if I'm not mistaken. Someone fitted a pipe thread fitting on one end, which means you will have to thread the hose on to the pipe thread 1st when assembling then thread the flare. Makes it a bit awkward, if there is a flare at both ends, it doesn't matter which end you assemble 1st.

SAE 100r-5 hose is sized by dash number. Again, look on the fitted of the hose you want to replace for the dash number size. here is an example of the -10 hose and fitting, note it is marked with 10 on the fitting, even though it is SAE flare.

Hose size is generally marked on the fitting, like -10 for -10 hose or -8 for -8 hose. -8 would be my guess, but no point in guessing look at the fitting and be sure.

One word of caution on fittings. AN and SAE are two different things when it comes to fittings. SAE is 45 deg flare and AN or JIC is 37 deg flare. In most cases the thread is the same, and while not recommended, nor proper you can fit a JIC fitting on a SAE flare. -6 and -20 this is not true, the fitting is a different size for SAE vs JIC. There may be other dash number that this is the case. I bring this up because it is something to watch for when making up hoses. Cummins used SAE fittings on the turbo oil supply hose, and you either had to source the less common SAE fitting for PTFE hose, or change the fittings to JIC. JIC and AN use the same thread form and flare angle, IIRC the only difference is the lead in the flare/thread is longer on one than the other. when in doubt, remove the mating fitting and take it with you when getting replacement hose ends to mate to it.

Anything with a hex on the part that goes over the hose is almost for sure a reuseable, both his look to have a hex. Crimp will be a round barrel with crimping marks. To remove a re useable, thread onto a fitting or plug and tighten hard, then un-screw the center and plug/fitting from the hose as a unit. It has fine right hand threads. This will leave the lower portion on the hose, that "un threads" from the outside of the hose, it is left hand threaded

PTFE hose is used on trucks in some areas where its high heat tolerance is needed. Turbo oil supply and drain line Oil cooler lines air compressor outlet line. The line is more expensive and the fittings are different for SAE100-14 PTFE line. It also is harder to work with.

Original hose is SAE 100R5 and should be common to find. PTFE hose is going to be more expensive for little gain. As has been mentioned, those are "reuseable" fittings and can be removed and transferred to the new hose if compatible with fittings for SAE 100R5.

RR prefer SAE 40 or 50 engine oil.

Spill timing, been there done that.

when it is cold outside and the heater is not preforming well, grab the inlet and outlet pipes, if one is cool and the other hot, the core is plugged and needs to be replaced. They both should be about the same temperature. Also, if used the water control valve can reduce flow, make sure it has good flow in the circuit.

Before buying new tires have the rear suspension checked. There are plenty of "wear points" that can allow the rears to be out of alignment, and new tires would be a waste of money if those problems are addressed 1st.

Bottom plug is for a temp sender, top plug is for fill/level.

Budd is slang for stud pilot, that may be confusing you.

All the code is telling you is the output to the "computer" is outside what is expected. It is up to you to determine the cause. Looking at the actual O2 sensor output might be of help, it would show if it is sensing rich or lean condition. The older the system, the less info it can provide. Depending on how "slightly different" the cam you put in is, it could even effect what the O2 sees and the computer is expecting to see. 1st place I'd look is for vacuum leaks and rich running do to fueling issues, 1st causes lean running 2nd rich.

I think the cost in gasoline will be the biggest deterrent. When I drove my K's to the ATHS show in Alburn, IN I took the smaller routes and just enjoyed the drive, and lower speed. That is another option.

I've bought used from Vanderhaag's and some new takes-offs. I only bought two when they had 5 and should have bought them all!. If there is a big truck salvage yard, might be worth checking what they have. Double coin is on the higher end of the cheap China tires, and I know many have had OK luck with them. Buying 10 tires for a hobby truck is a hard nut to swallow, but if you can pick them up one or two at a time, on the cheap it goes down easier.

I used to find good deals mail ordering tires, but that seamed to go down the tubes, later. I mean, having them shipped to my door, for ridiculous low shipping prices. I think I stated previously that I was using slight better brands (Hankook, Kuhmo) that came out of SE Asia countries other than China. With a Hobby truck, that is unlikely to "run the tread off" before age gets the better of the tire, I would at least look at what is available on line, shipped to your door. Price is likely going to be the deciding factor. No sense paying for a casing with good "retreadability" when the casing is going age out before the 1st tread is worn off. I've seen 1st hand the bias ply tires handle age much better than radial ply tires do. They do have their disadvantages especially in line-haul trucking, but for a hobby truck, I find them to last. I currently have a set of Kuhmo bias 8.25 x20's on my K-7 that are quite old but doing well.

Roof air are still made, again Red Dot or Kyser. My poor dog spent more than a day with me in my 6-71 powered, weed burner exhaust Fleetstar, Looking back I surprised he didn't bite me at the end of the day. No A/C in that truck either.

You realize of course, this now makes you a commercial trucker! Your B will now be subject to all the rules! Way to go! Chasing the dream and catching it!

I've seen a lot of stupid stuff, some of it done by those who should know better, much of it done by people who never were trained. There is never a good reason to hit a rim with a sledge, enough get hit by poor aim when a tire hammer is used to break the bead loose. I know my tires are mounted and the lock ring is seated with about 20 PSI in the tire! The rim is cleaned of rust and the tire lubed with rubber lube. If you do the job correctly, you have the core out and put 20 psi in and can watch the bead expand over the lock ring, feel or see the ring gap get smaller, all before there is enough stored energy to hurt you, then you let the air out so the tube can work out any wrinkles, then put the core in and inflate. If the lock ring isn't seated, hitting it with a hammer is more likely to make it come apart than go together. It is just plain wrong!

Smacking any rim with a sledge, is abuse! Smacking a tubeless rim is no better. RIms don't need nor should they be abused and expect to take abuse. Would you take a mounted aluminum rim/tire combo that is inflated and smack it with a sledge on the bead area? Would you expect it not to break a apart? Why would you do that with any rim? At the minimum you make a stress riser in the rim. As far as I am concerned, the Firestone RH 5 deg wheel is the only really questionable one, but even on those, if you really know what your are doing, you can separate the ones that shouldn't be place back in service. There are many better designs than the FIrestone RH 5deg, (semi drop center wheel) that I would not use them on my stuff. One afternoon, I serviced 5 of the Firestone wheels, out of the 5 only one could possibly be re-used.