Geoff Weeks

They look goofy because he has the wrong rims on the front, those are "super single" rims for the rear, Spoke wheels that use wide base (wider than 9") take different rims for front and rear. On wide base rims for the front, they have a single flange with the offest to keep the tire in the proper position over the bearing/spindle. Wide base for rear have a double flange with a space between them (to be like the spacer band) and center the wheel over the hub. He has rear, on the front, which moves the tire out, and not only looks goofy but isn't safe. Here is a pic of the correct front style wide base rim for spoke wheels.

Those are popular here also. Mostly all I'll be towing are the black trailer in the picture and a tow dolly for cars, both require about the same ball height and size so a single fixed drop works for me and about 1/4 the price of an adjustable drop. Only thing I own with a Lunette ring is a 1940 generator on wagon type trailer with steel wheels. I will not be pulling that on the road! Don't know how much it weighs, has a 525 CID Buda and is 62.5 Kva. Neat running gear, sprung on both axles, wheels are spoke with steel, I don't know if it was a bomb cart that was converted, or what.

I realized I never posted the finished product. 8" drop, could have gone another inch. Next drop from 8" would have been 10". You can see where the original ball mount was, far too high for most things I'll pull. I moved on to the carb, been rebuilding Zeniths and Carters. Made a big difference, starts an runs a whole lot better.

Put in a few 500 mile days in my 6-71 powered Fleetstar, yeah I know they didn't only get used in the city

I could be mistaken, I always understood the 'U" was for Urban, a short nosed tractor to maneuver in tight places like East coast cities. Much like the IHC Fleetstar. 2 cyl under the hood, 2 under the dash and 2 beside the driver!

tire | FMCSA (dot.gov) Here it is in print

Re gooved tires are prohibited, re capped are not. Re-cap are prohibited on passenger (bus) steer. It is in the federal (Green book) register. Smaller truck tires (lighter) up to a certain ply rating/ weight limit may be re-grooved, it the tire says "regooveable" . I went through the same CVSA course the truck-cops did, a few were in my class. That was in the book.

Long time ago on a different forum, someone was looking to mount a rack and pinion gear on an axle, he was told it was illegal to mount it there (not by me) and I took the man's word that it was not kosher to do so, as I had never seen it done in any road vehicle. It adds a lot of Monkey motion to the steering shaft, with the axle going up and down on the suspension and also moves it down lower to the road where it could get smacked. For those reasons I never questioned the "illegal" statement that was made, I should have because of the t nonsense I have heard as "illegal" in my time. Everything I worked on (Macks included) had the steering box on the frame. Too many spout the "Illegal" claim but can't back it up. Like recaps on the steer of a truck, no, it is not illegal. It isn't often done, but it isn't illegal. My bad, for not researching it.

Well, that is something I have not seen before, so I learned something new! I can see a whole bunch of reasons why it never was popular, but I believe you it was done.

Not so far out. I have heard and read about, heat exchangers and even running the pump water through the engine to keep it cool on long fires. If that truck at one time had some sort of heat exchanger, someone may have fitted a filler cap (neck) on an old hose connection when that equipment was removed.

My Fleetstar's of that vintage have S cam rear and wedge front. With it pulling badly on brake application, it could be an S cam out of adjustment by a lot, or it could be a frozen wedge, which happens more often. That isn't a low air switch in the lower line, it is a hyd brake light switch! I know it is new and you want to drive it, but please have someone who knows a bit about trucks come by and give you a hand. You get stopped on the road, and the result is likely a tow bill and a ticket. A single rear with no spring brakes and a 2 speed axle (or had one at one time)? So must have a driveshaft E brake? I worked on a school bus that was set up that way (air brakes but only driveshaft E brake), but that would be fairly rare. Most air braked trucks are required to have spring brakes, I thought the school bus was an exception (didn't want a school bus stuck on RR tracks because of an air problem). Early stuff, yeah they had air brakes and either drum or disk driveshaft brakes. I know most had to have spring brakes starting back in the 50's or 60's. You listed your location as USA, which isn't helpful, if you were near me, I'd drop by and at least get you started on what needs to be done. As it stands I have no idea what part of the country you are in.

I know nothing about the truck model in question, but have NEVER seen a steering box mounted to the axle on any heavy truck. So I can't see that being safe or legal around here.

Radiators & Cooling Systems: Truck, Semi, Heavy Equipment, RV | RSH – Radiator Supply House

I don't think they mfg radiators. L&M Radiator Hibbing, MN Mesabi.com

If the truck is "down" without a new radiator, it seam to me that the "where to get a core to rebuild" should be moot. Northern Detroit rad come to mind, there were others that catered to the O/P? You want someone who will not buy a pre-made core and just bolt or solder the end caps on, you want someone who can do the whole job. It may cost a fair bit in shipping, but that is what it is. I am trying to remember the big names in radiators for trucks, but my memory isn't what it used to be. When I found the shop I used, I never tried to do the job myself again. They weren't quick or cheap, but were good and stood behind their work. I heard they closed a few years ago. Worse case you could look into the mfg that supply construction/ off road equipment, but their prices aren't going to be as cheap as automotive.

My shop has since closed, but they would have "custom made" cores made for my trucks. Yeah several years ago (may be 10) I spent $2150 on a radiator and $1800 on the out of frame rebuild kit! Yep, more in the radiator than the engine. Truck wouldn't be useful without both being done. Nothing like pulling the Big Horn mts, wide open fully loaded 45 min @ 25 mph and not having to worry about the engine or radiator. My shop would take the tanks off, cut the tubes at the end-plate and send it out with the width needed, the core would come back and they would assemble. Also allowed for more tubes (with new end plates) or other changes. All it takes is money!😁

The Zenith I'm working on now is nice in the throttle shaft, the accelerator pump check and discharge nozzle were shot/plugged and that will cause some running issues! The Carter BBR next up will require a shaft bushing and may be some build up on the shaft and re machining back to std size. Back at the time I was wrench turning in a automotive shop, I would take a "junkyard" carb over a "rebuild" from some of the major commercial rebuilders. I've seen some real junk. I had one where I could get a brand new throttle body, but for most I would get one from a yard and overhaul it. Any extra time spent setting up the overbore on the throttle body will pay dividends, just like any machining operation, sloppy set up ruins a good machine job.

Bushing are no problem internet search show all sizes with reamers included. Trick is being careful on the set up so you keep the shaft centered where it was to begin with. Get the alignment wrong and the throttles will not close properly, or the ports will be in the wrong area to function properly.

My BBR is going to need throttle shaft work if I am going to reuse it., might get another Zenith on it until I get around to machining the throttle shaft bore and sleeving it.

Hey Jo-Jo does your K-7 have a Zenith, Carter or Holley? I'm going through mine now and got the IHC "Shop talks" on the Zenith and Carter as they show the breakdown of the carb and sequence better than the shop manual. Also list the factory tools, but finding a set might be hard. Shop talks are IHC's training manuals that go into more depth, kind of like what you get at a factory school today. Anyway, I could try and scan them if you want one. I think at least one of my Carter's is going to need a sleeve in the throttle shaft bore.

Yeah, those can be fixed but not with just a gasket kit. I'm looking at an old Zenith and may be a Carter that need that fixed.

Two common reasons you see long studs: 1 is for a non metallic spacer to isolate the carb from the cast iron manifold to prevent heat from the engine transfering to the carb, the other is when a flow governor is used between the carb and intake. Since yours has the Holley Centro-vac gov, heat transfer is the likely reason. should run a lot better with the non-metered air kept out!

I don't know when you tried, but when I needed a rugged phone I found a flip phone that was rugged and could be ordered with or without a camera for secure locations. Most at Verizon had never heard of the model, said it didn't exist, but I pushed until I found someone who did know and get what I wanted. They want to sell what they stock, not what you want.

picky linky no worky

I'd rather be a seppo that septic anyway!