Geoff Weeks

1991 or 1992 is when shoulder belts in trucks were required. My '92 has them my '89 doesn't . Drove a 90 or 91 that didn't. Green book should have the reg in writing.

Work ed M.A.N.'s that were Propane fired, looked just like that.

They sold a fair number of medium trucks, but Class 8 road tractors they had a much smaller market share. I had a '73 Dart Sport (Duster clone) with a '65 225 and an Aspen O/D 4 speed and 3.23 rear. Would get high 20's @55 and low 20's at 80, Topped out at 103 in O/D 105 in direct.

Dodge Heavy or slanted engine? Dodge bowed out of the heavy market in I think '73 or 75 but were never a big player in heavy trucks.

I was in my sleeper in Boomtown (back in the 90's) waiting for Truckee to be open to O/D loads. Late in the evening I heard a oldtime sound, A 6-71 jake'n down from the Calif side, pulled into Boomtown next to me, 60's Freightliner Cabover. Heard the 6-71 "hunting" at idle. They finely got Truckee opened up the next day and I took off for Lodi.

When I get the barn and yard cleaned up I have another cab in better shape to go on it.

1942 K-7 IHC

'69 Fleetstar cab and 5 Firestone RH 5 deg widowmakers and one KW Goodyear. Enough in scrap to buy 20 gal of gas!

Ford, Dodge, White, slanted There may be others also. Played heck when they were converted to RHD.

1st sign of old age, and I can't remember the 2nd! Yeah, '67 is Pre-121. My '69 was also. Not sure when -121 took over completely, my '73 still has the "slippery road" manual push-pull valve on the dash to cut the front brake pressure. '69 had cable operated valves (like the flippers on the dash for PDL but with cable handles) down under the dash for trailer supply and slippery road limiting valve. Other than that, the '73 is all post -121 on the brake set-up. '69 had a pop-out button for parking/E brake and a TP-2 for tractor protection. I just used it as a yard goat, Weird haveing the trailer valve operated by the same cable/knobs as were used to control the heater and vents. Don't reach for the wrong one, or you'll regret it. '69 cab is on the back of my '42 this morning, going to make a run to the recycle yard today. Cab was all rotted out. Got aa bunch of Firestone RH 5 deg semi-drops to go with it for scrap. Funny the '69 frame is in near perfect condition. Body was totally rusted. Sold the engine out of it for what I paid for the truck, Couldn't give away the 5 speed Clark, the rear was re-ratioed and went into my Marmon, Hood went on my '73. I guess I got my $350 out of that truck! It had a 406 gasser in it. Both fuel tanks went on my '42

It sound more like the one with the red button in was pre -121. One of the requirement -121 brought in that wasn't there before, was the tractor feed to pop-out when the parking brakes were applied. Prior to this, the tractor protection valve is what cut off the pressure to the trailer lines based on pressure on a small control line from the dash control. TP 1 or TP2. With this system, the control on the dash could be left in the trailer position and it wouldn't supply air until the truck pressure was between 30 and 40 psi. The problem was if the driver left it in the (normal, supply trailer air) on shut down, it would, on start up release the trailer brakes without input from the driver. With -121 the trip mechanism was moved from the TP to the control valve on the dash. Until -121 reservoir air pressure was supplied to the TP at all times, the small control line opened the TP (and allowed supply and control brake air to the trailer). Post 121 the air supply line goes through the dash control to the TP. Until the dash valve supplys air to the TP it stays closed, All air to the red line, passes through the dash control. Until recently, only 4 lines were used on post 121 TP valves two input and two out to the trailer ports. (TP-3). This was all to prevent a driver from going to a combo in the yard that the previous driver had left the trailer controls in the "normal" position, the new driver fireing up the truck and assuming the trailer brakes were set, having them release as pressure builds. The post -121 requires that on pressure loss the TP and controls self return to the closed position without any input from the driver. The valve assemblies like the MV-2 or -3 all do this but allow the red button to be pushed and supply air while the tractor brakes remain set. The requirement is, if the tractor parking (yellow) is pulled, it must trip the red automatically. The is no requirement that the trailer can't be supplied air when the tractor brakes are set. There are more than one way to achieve the requirements, Some chose one way, others chose another. In the end the most common way had the fewest knobs/valves.

All my stuff can do it with just two buttons. Bendix MV-2, I've talked to some guys that can't keep the red in with yellow out, I think those systems used the Blue button. Not why they were that way. All had to due with how the red button "tripped" when parking brake was pulled. Assembling multi-piece heavy haul trailers it can come in handy to winch against the tractor with the trailer supplied with air.

As with others, I have little experience with them, drove a R model that had the blue knob. Some (I know some Fords) had the red, yellow, blue as part of one big multi function valve, so if yours is that way, it will be hard to remove just the blue. Most trucks, you can push the red button in and release the trailer brakes with the yellow (tractor parking button out) and it will stay in. I have heard of some that will not, and I think those are with the blue button. On most trucks, if you pull the yellow with the red in, it will trip the red as well. It depends on how the trip is plumbed. So, in short, try and push the red in (with the red hose deadheaded) with the yellow out, If you can and it locks in, I'd say go for it. If however the red can't be locked in without the yellow in, I would leave it as is. I really don't see a reason to mess with it,

Feels like someone heated up mechanic's wire red hot and stuck it into you, don't it?

I hope you got them all. I am allergic and can go into shock from hornet stings, Bees don't bother me too much, I have hauled them on a flatbed, and got stung a few times, but hornet stings are a whole 'nuther magnitude. Once got stung on my ring finger, and almost lost the finger before I could get my wedding ring off. I was swollen to the shoulder, all from one sting.

Also known as a "hero" or "Hogie" depending on where you are.

Yes, the K series 6-12 all used a #1. Later the big six used a SAE #2 The #2 in my picture came from an RD 450 IHC 6 as did the #1, but it was an earlier version of the same engine a RED 450 You don't see many #2 flanges anymore but is good to know they exist, because a quick look, you might think it is a common #3, then the cussing starts when you try and mount it! It seams they have dropped the #2 and just one and three are used today.

I just stumbled upon it looking for examples of SAE starter flanges. The K-7's use an SAE #1 and I have #2 and # 3 flanges as well. #2 seams to obsolete, not used any more. I was suprised to find #1 was still in common use, which make it easy. Here is my pic of the #1,#2and #3 lined up. 2 and three differ in bolt hole size and pilot ring.

Hey JoJo, when looking for something else, I came across this Leece Neville buyers guide. List several modern gear reduction starters with SAE #1 flange in 12 or 24 volt with 10 tooth pinion, as well as pertinent info on the starter. Page 42. I think you should be able to find one to fit. Also helpful to anyone looking for a new starter. Leece naville.pdf

Yeah well, we wore one to shreds, but could find no makers mark or part number, so sent to England for a replacement, imagine out chagrin to find it came from Indiana! I guess they were laughing at our expense across the pond, we were when we un packed it. All the other buses used a close coupled double cross type joint (took common U joints) but this one bus came in with that Dodge coupling. I had seen small ones on pumps but never one that big with that much power put though it. We cut a "wheelbarrow" tire and installed it to get the bus back to the barn under its own power, but needless to say it couldn't handle but the lightest touch on the throttle, Barely idled back to the barn.

One of the British buses used one between the hyd flywheel and input of the trans. 1st time I ran across one with that much Hp/torque going through it.

It really comes down to right or wrong what the officer thinks when he has you pulled over. Even if he is wrong, you are still on the hook until court. Silly stuff like the tent in the back makes no difference, You and he have to deal with what is infront of them at the time. I always tried to be sure and err on the side of caution.

You can be "not for hire" and still be commercial. Wal Mart hauling its own stuff to stores is "not for hire' but is still commercial. A truck hauling dirt is going to be looked at as commercial. Registered weight and GVW on the vehicle tag are two different things, a Motor Coach based RV my have a 32K or higher GVW but still be no CDL. How your state or even the cop that pulls your over interoperates the statue may differ. If you want to play it safe, stay under 26K or get a CDL

As an independent, I never cross at picket either. Earned the respect of the Union. In an ideal world there would be no need ever. We don't live in an ideal world. I have not worked in a union shop, but one place I worked became union after I left. I was called to a customer and came up on the picket. I got out, asked what was happening, (I was not told they were on strike when I was called) and then asked for room to turn around! I got it! Remember, the glory days after WW 2 (50's and 60's) were when we had the strongest unions in this country. I don't feel every shop HAS to be union, but some sure do.

My experiencing has been few involved with making sure the rules are followed, know the rules when it comes to non-commercial, outside the "norm". Antiques "Should" fall under the same rules as an RV. A CDL or air brake training is not required of RV owners, and there is no "weight" on the RV plate in most cases. They are considered non commerical. this is true even on large motor coach based RV's. Federal rules for CDL can vary from state rules. State rules can be stricter but must a least meet federal requirements. One thing many don't know, is if your state has adopted the fed rules for a CDL, you can "self certify" intra or interstate exempt. This means you don't have to get a physical every 2 years (or one) after your professional driving days are done. If you don't re classify yourself, if you don't get a physical, your lic will be downgraded. In Iowa, it takes a trip to the county seat to make the change. There are some states I've been told, this is not an option, I think it was AZ or NM that adopted a stricter set of rules. That said, if it is legal in your state there should be reciprocity with all states. Keeping and renewing a CDL might be a little more expensive than a "normal" llic but I think it is worth it. Getting yearly or bi annual DOT physicals is what makes most who had a CDL drop it when they retire. Normal truck plates that a weight based are so to pay the road tax to keep up the roads. That is why Antique plates on something carrying a load bring special attention. Someone hauling the antiques to a show, does it really matter that 2 or three are riding on a trailer vs being driven? Of course not. Does an antique cause more wear on the road when compared to a large Motor Coach based RV? I doubt it. The problem is too many times those charged with enforcing see "Truck" and little else. As others have said, NON-Commercial (Not just "not for hire) on the truck can help. No prize money, no someone else paying you to take their truck on your trailer to a show. I found the people at the main state office far more helpful than the satellite offices, that only know one thing and one way to register a truck.