FireSKip17

The cable for the RPM tachometer is broken where it goes from the engine block right side to the splitter on the left frame rail engine compartment. I was curious if anyone had a lead on where to find a replacement for this. I pulled one from a donor truck but realized it's a foot shorter.

I got to rebuild kit from then and now out of Massachusetts. I plan to do that next week

Ultimately mines a EN707, but it has this AC fuel pump on it. I emailed Terrell Machine awhile.

where did you find a kit? Im about to reach out to daytona

We had multiple wires frayed, currently re-wiring the truck. The Amp meters both always read 0. Drove it an hour tho and it didn't die, so maybe it works. So can't truly confirm it's function. The one bar marked AC is heavily blued tho. Wouldn't want to switch the grounds around tho bc the radio and siren are specifically 12v POS.

Here's how ours was setup with 12v positive ground: -Battery Selector switch to "B" on voltage regulator. -Left Ignition Switch to "IGN" on voltage regulator. -"G" on voltage regulator to "NEG" on rectifier. -"GND" on voltage regulator to "POS" on rectifier. -"F" on voltage regulator to rear field post of Alternator. -the top post of the voltage regulator grounds to the mount/firewall. -the 3 larger posts on the alternator (phases??) went to the long 3 bars on the rectifier, they are marked "AC" on mine. - the other rear alternator post, I assume another field, goes to the "POS" on the rectifier. I'd love to get rid of all this and go single wire alternator.

I have mine all pulled and mapped out. I'll share Saturday next time I'm messing with it how these fire engines are wiring with the rectifiers. I am looking to swap the system out to a 1 wire alternator tho.

If someone wanted to swap to a newer 1 wire alternator, any suggestions on an easy drop in? I'd love to get rid of the rectifier and voltage regulator on this Mack

Which diagram is it? The 51 L85 I'm messing with needs 8mr 4140 but all I have is 4929 to reference.

I get no difference with the air cleaner on

Thanks. I'll drop an inline gauge on the fuel line but I feel it's good. I'll pull the governor and see what I can find. I absolutely soaked the intake manifold and got nothing.

No vacuum advance

I'll check the carb butterfly's. The idle screws are set to 1.5 turns. I unhooked the vacuum line and plugged it to eliminate the possibilities of leaks in the vacuum system. Could the governor play any part in this issue?

That was my thought too. But we stripped and had the carb rebuilt. Adjusting the idle mixture screws doesn't seem to do anything.

I sprayed carb cleaner all over it and couldn't get any rpm changes. Was frustrating. I soaked the back of the carb and the top half of the manifold where it bolts to the block