Lmackattack

Personally for a dump truck keep springs for the tractor and air ride for the trailer. You get better traction for the tractor and the trailer with air wont bounce and buck you around. The ride quaility with a air ride trailer is night and day. Always dump the air bags when dumping.

May he RIP......Was he the inventor for the maxidyne principle?

If what you are saying is at 1900 rpm you see 63 mph with 4.42 rears and tires with 513 revs per mile my math says you have around a .78 overdrive. If you went from a 4.42 down to a 4.17..... Your road speed would be 67mph at 1900 rpm This is assuming you have around a .78 overdrive

I have a 711 non turbo with a straight pipe. IT IS LOUD inside the cab. I think its louder in the cab than from standing next to the truck out side.

i bought some green plastic toggles and I had to put a dab of rubber calk in them to get them to have a "tight" fit. Other wise they would slide right off and flop around on the toggle.

wasn't it a brand new truck? 120K sounds about right for a new truck

I tend to judge things by its cover........you think that guy has ever set foot in a truck?....be honest now!

Looking good. You need a gold dog for the hood with all the " go fast " work you have done to it!

I was at there south Chicago yard a few months ago and they had lots of cool pictures in the office. I dident know they had superliners and valuliners. They use to be all Mack but I saw alot more Freightliners there.

I had the pleasure of working for a company where fuel milage was nothing more than a game of who could put the most amount of $$ into the tanks. The "best" I ever did was just over $1400. That was with a truck that could carry 300 usable gallons on the tractor and 35 for the trailer. This was back in 2007? when fuel was at $5 a gallon. We fuled up in northern Cal or Southern Oragon. The 5 of us pulled up and dropped about 7 grand at a little ma and pop gas station. the owner was smiling and We all got a free soda and sandwich for the road... LOL That being said we were sponcered by Texaco, and they paid the fuel bills no questions asked. Those trucks had 550 cats and good tires. They had a lifetime avg of 5.0 MPG (good times)

Check basics first. Are the tires the same hight? Are you on perfectly level ground? Check by placing a level on the pavement. Then across the tandems. Also chech ride hight loaded and unloaded. To see if your withing spec one way and not the other.

Mack made a rear mount pto that will fit the 2 stick 6 speed and 12 speed transmissions. as long as the 12 speed has the splined countershaft it should install just like they did with 6 speed. Look at the rear countershaft covers for a stamp to indicate it is splined. It should be stamped with a "s" or an "x" I can't recall If you want a married pto/pump unit the 6 and 12 speed has provisions for 6 and 8 bolt ptos I don't recall a rear mount married pto as an option from Mack or other vendors? In my opinion the Mack pto was the better of the 2 options.

I did many days in a mid rise sleeper truck. I like them better than the condo sleepers we had.

Rossi had a few R700s and a B model that I think they still used every now and then?. I saw the B model out at O'Hare field last year. and 3 years ago it was working out on Rt83 in Elmhurst

I suspected air brake valve for the front. up until the late 70s? tractor/trucks did not require front brakes. I think it was an option until the government mandated them on all trucks. I sure wish my RS700 Had them because it makes a huge difference having front brakes when bob tailing in the rain or snow. The front axle ratio valve limits how much brake pressure you have sent to the steer axle. Basically it prevents the front axle from skidding during a hard stop. older trucks such as a B model mack had a dash mounted switch that kind of did the same thing as the valve in your pic. most air driers I have seen on R models were located on the passenger side out side frame rail behind the fuel tank. this is where mine was located from the factory. I have since relocated it to the inside of the frame rail just to hide it.

It looks like 1 and 2 are air brake valves? I cant see where the lines connect to? It is possible that 1 could be a fuel warmer? It looks like a coolant hose runs to it? My RS does not have front brakes or a fuel warmer so it may be missing these parts? The clutch cable loops back under the cab and mounts to the bell housing/clutch linkage. 5. That is the air intake hose for the air compressor. 6.that is the engine oil filler tube.

I can't clearly see 1 and 2 3 is your radiator hose from the top of the radiator and it Most likely hooks back into the water system down Near the oil cooler hose exit. 4 is your clutch cable.

For reference I was able to pull a non turbo 711 and quad box out of my B model With a skid steer. It was barely able to do it but I got it. That being said and knowing what I know now I would have used a larger machine. Hope that sheds a little light

Great price. Hope it's in good shape. Looks to be about a 216- 220"wb. Not bad for for a old show truck.

Most trucks I drove (besides a 5 speed)you kept your rpm up at 1800 and when it falls back around 1500 downshift. At some point you will find a gear that it can hold at 1600-1800. This is the rpm I like to pull at because it keeps EGTs down and of I have to let out of it I can drop a few rpm and then pick it back up. Now that being said 1200-1400 is where most diesels make their most torque.but they also make higher EGTs down there.

I was going to say the same thing. Get a reduced elbow. It is 5" at the turbo and 4" at the end of the pipe. Simple solution . That being said the reducer will be the most restrictive part of the system. Think garden hose...water only flows as fast as the smallest hole allows being pushed by said pressure behind it. Regarding 4" vs 5" And turbo size. It really does not matter how big or how small ( physically) a turbo is. The important part is what's inside. A larger turbo can flow the same amount of air as a smaller turbo but with less restriction or boost. However of you go to big you get turbo lag. If your making 37 psi your doing very good. If anything I would do some tests with your current 4" exhaust. Remove the muffler and see if it runs better. If it does your muffler is restrictive or you have too many bends in the system. If you do get the larger turbo Try a 5" pipe with an open exhaust routed under the truck.do a few tests runs like that. Then hook up your exhaust with the 5" into 4". If the boost is the same with both tests than you don't have a restriction issue with the 5 into 4

Also no white steering wheel?

Looking at the bumpers I would speculate they are not Hayward built. I thought most RS/RL seam to have aluminum bumpers. Thoughts?

I think it was said the RS/RL 600,700 and superliner were hayward Mack's. The superliner replaced the 700s and thats when the RS/RL700 westerns stopped prodection. When Hayward closed they moved its superliner and RS,RL 600 production to PA and the RS/RL600 was then re named to valueliner? One question I wondered was what was the last year for the FS/FL did they move production to PA as well?

" oh crap "