steelman

Macks are my thing, but i have a few IHC's. 1917 K, 1924 modell 33 and 63, about 1927/8 model 93, 1965 loadmaster (i believe) with a detroit v6 and allison automatic (former us govt truck). Also remnants of a transtar cabover (cummings and tranny-runs). I sold several KB8 and 9's a couple years ago.

Sorry for the late reply. I just saw this. Phil Baumgarten had very high quality reproductions of cab plates, radiatot badges and other items made which he sold to collectors and hobbiest such as myself who owned and restored older Macks. These were 1920's, 30's, 40's and 50's. B model hood and radiator tags were about the newest items he had made. He was very active in the old truck hobby, and quite active in the ATHS. He had moved to Florida, and died about 20 years ago. Very nice fellow and always ready to help anyone. All of the remaining stock was sold to someone who I do not remember. The radiator tag you have was used on the AB Macks from about 1924 on. It may have been used on some other models as well. Phil told me he had them made in Tiawan by a very good company , and he was very careful to be sure the quality was excellent. Not long before he died, he told me the demand for the older items was drying up, and it was getting harder to put together the minimum size orders necessary to have them reproduced. They show up for sale from time to time on ebay, where they sell very quickly. Steelman

That works. I worked a number of years for Dow Chem before starting my own steel fabrication shop. We regularly worked on tanks that had contained very explosive materials. They had protocols to follow which included cleaning and steam clean, sniffing with meter before hot work (welding/cutting),etc. Safety first, always. I would use CO2 or argon bled from a weld bottle to do what TJC transport spoke of on small tanks (50 gal+/-) if i could not find dry ice. Now days, my insurance company won't let us work on any tank that held a flammable material, or even weld on a gasoline powered vehicle.

The serial number of your truck indicates it is a five ton. Serial numbers 10,313,001 to 10,314.000 were built between October 1926 and April 1927. This puts your truck being built in the June/July 1927 time period. The removable head engines, also called high hat engines were introduced in 1928. Your truck should have originally come with a jughead engine. Hope this helps. Steelman

A bar is one barometric pressure, which at sea level is 14.7 psi. To convert bar to psi, you simply multiply 14.7 times the bar number. Therefor (2.5) x (14.7)= 36.75 psi.

Not in North Carolina, but not too far away in Richmond, Virginia, Thurston Spring is an excellent shop that has been here forever. They can do most anything including making new springs. Probably less than 125 miles from Wilmington.

Mad dog, Give me some time (4+/- weeks) to finish recovery, and I will try to get you what I can off my truck. I had a bad accident, four surgeries, and am now recovering (last nine weeks). Right now I cannot even get to my shop to take a picture. I am going crazy sitting still, but nurses and physical therapy just about every day for a little longer. Send me a PM and I will send info as soon as I can. Carey

I would be I interested I the cab and doors. Hood also if available. Could pickup with gooseneck trailer or rollback if you have a way to load. Please send me pm. Thanks. Carey Leitch, Fredericksburg, Va. (50 miles south of wash., DC)

Do you have access to a good bearing,seal supply House? Given shaft sizes, depth of seal and type of seal (which should be apparent to a good supplier), and you should be back in business in a day or two.

Mad dog, The little B I have is painted Mack green like Tackaberry's. George sold it to a fellow on Cape Cod who had it for years. He had an electric over hydraulic eight foot landscapers dump body put on the rear. He had a little accident with it and dented the front fenders and radiator surround. Sent it back to George to repair, put a patch panel on the bottom of the passenger door and repaint. At some point he decided to sell it, and I bought it and brought it home last year from Maine. I pulled the dump off and have a stepside body going on it like Tack's and the red one. I am repainting it and freshening it up. It runs well (5.9 Cummins and automatic) and George put a over,under and direct brownie box behind the auto. You can pull stumps (or trailers) in underdrive, and in overdrive it will really cruise. I am 6', 265 pound, but fit in it easier than I do in a regular B model. Very comfortable, and VERY COOL looking. People notice it. I plan on making it my daily driver after repaint. Re the fenders, he made a lot of cuts and fitting to make them look correct for the smaller tires. The cab is narrowed 4 inches, and the radiator shroud is also narrowed and chopped a few inches. The two front running lights were eliminated when narrowed. The truck is amazingly well proportioned, like 5/8 scale. George did a wonderful job building these. He told me he did six Macks and two Pete's. I am recovering from surgery right now, but would be glad to share Info on it after I recover. Send me a PM with your email..I have an integral sleeper I wanted to modify and put on another little B. The cab is too far gone to restore, but I looked at stretching it and creating a four door. I have the chassis and everything ready to go. The amount of money and time it takes is substantial.. I could probably finish it if I live to 150 years.

Sent you an email with my wish list thank you.

The red B model, like some others mentioned, was built by George Sprowl in Maine 20/25 years ago. They were built on Ford one ton frames with 6bt Cummings engines. The cab, fenders and cowl were cut down to make them look appropriately to scale. I am lucky to have one of them, and love it. He really did an amazing job. I looked at building my own for years, and it is a lot of work. I also looked at dt360 and dt466 engines (I have some of both), and the power, size and parts available with a Cummins 6bt make them hard not to consider. Look at the horsepower, torque, weight and maintenance cost of a full size Mack power plant, not to mention fuel consumption in what amounts to a pickup truck, and you might start to rethink this. I looked at Mack, Ford, Chevy and Dodge frames, all of the power plants noted above, as well as other issues. There are folks on this site who have built nice B model pickups using 3/4 ton, one ton and full size (class 5-8) frames with gas and diesel power. It might be worthwhile to reach out to them before you get in the deep end of the pond.

I agree with the 30 or 40 weight engine oil, but do not agree with non detergent. When I started in the hobby 56 years ago I was told detergent oil would wipe out Babbitt bearings, etc. 56 years later, and a mechanical Engineering degree , I have used detergent oil, and it keeps everything cleaner, and have had no bearing break down. No more sludge in the bottom of the sump, etc. The additives I do agree with. In the transmission/ rear end (shaft drive), I use 75w, 90w or 75w-90w oil. Same for steering gear. The magneto wants light weight oil like sewing machine oil (3in 1 oil), and the manual says about four drops. Spring hangers and Clevis want engine oil, and chassis wants grease. I have used marine waterproof grease for chassis as it doesn't want to melt away it seems. Just my 2 cents worth.

Mike Harbison is correct. Mack has built their own engines from the beginning. Mack Juniors and Seniors were Mack designed and built. Being interested in early Macks for the last 55+ years, I have run into many "experts" that called Mack part of IHC and other such rubbish because of the corporate name, International Motor Co. Take a look at the book "Mack" by John Montville someday. Came out in 1974, but they are around. Very well researched and written by a very nice fellow.

Yes, that is the creeper I saw. Had no idea it would cost 13K !!!! If I think about it too long, I will begin to believe I can build one, then the real trouble begins. We own a steel fab shop, and from experience, I know that why buy something for 13K when you could build it yourself for only 50K. That aerocreeper looked nice also.

Very Nice. Is that yours?

I saw this really cool creeper on a web site around Christmas that would stand you up or slowly let you down or anything in between. I really wanted one, but couldn't find it again. Sometimes after laying on cardboard in the floor or on a creeper, I have to find something stable to allow me to pull myslf up and then standup. I find myself taking the cellphone, gun, all the tools I think I need and anything else I might need to get help or attract attention before I get down on the floor to do even the simple jobs now. I probably look pathetic!

I am so happy to read all of this, as I have the same problems. I really like the gravity comment being more than three times as I swear it has also infected/affected my garage. At the early side of 70, I find it takes 3 to 4 weekends to do what I used to do on a Saturday. Even with new hips, after working in the garage, I sometimes feel like I can't walk the next day. Like most of you, I thought I was invincible back at 19 to 25. I told a fellow not long ago there is a reason most wars are fought by younger people, because at this age, I would probably suggest maybe we ought to sit down, have a drink, and talk this over.

The serial number should be stamped on the frame on the left (drivers) side, facing up (on the top flange of the frame). What is that number? We can tell you when built (approximately), and what size/capacity it is. It should be a number, like 10ACXXXX, or similar.

Any heavy weight transmission oil, like 90 wt. would work in the transmission. There is no rear end that takes oil. The bearings in the wheels take wheel bearing grease. What do you have? Any pictures??

On all of the AC's I have seen or ever fooled with, the pto is on the drivers side of the tranny, and it is controlled with a shaft that puts it in or out of gear. The only other shaft to the tranny is the gear shift lever which rotates and moves forward and back to select the gear you want.

ekennedy21 is correct. But there are some new 4 ply tractor tires and turf tires in 24" rim size that will work for knocking around. Miller tire in Wauseu (sp), Ohio has a catalog with these in them. They are only 4 ply with about a 2500 pound capacity, but we are talking parades, etc, not running a load. Might work for what you want to do.

Not really a parts truck, but a complete truck I would like to restore some day. I have quite a few AC's I can work/play with, and Don only had the one truck. I knew he wasn't well, so I sent him the parts so he could enjoy it while he had time left. We shared a lot of similar interests, and I enjoyed talking with him regularly. I will need the(replacement) parts someday, but I don't regret sending mine to him. This is a hobby, and it let him see his project completed. Steelman

His name was Don Steinman, and a friend of mine. I gave him a radiator and shaft with bearings from one of my AC's so he could complete his truck. He was able to take it to the ATHS show in Washington, but passed away a few months later. They had an auction, but it didn't sell. I saw it for sale in Hemmings Motor News last year for a good bit of money. Don't know if it sold.