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h67st

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by h67st

  1. The wheels I have are all pretty badly cracked, and I don't want to mortgage my house to get one recast. If anyone has a decent one they'll sell please let me know. Otherwise I guess I'll have to putty it up and paint it. If you have any tips on fixing the cracks, please post them.
  2. Western F model!! I'm jealous, you have a cool truck there. I'm glad to see you're giving it TLC.
  3. That looks like a nice truck...if it runs good then $15k is a great price.
  4. On ATHS Back Lot, asking $4,900. Looks really clean for that price. https://aths.org/backlot/134411/1956-mack-b-model-dump/pennsylvania/usa/trucks/
  5. Just looking at the photos, it looks like some decent work has been done. Of course, you'd have to put some eyes on it to see how it really is.
  6. I like the odd assortment of bolts in the scab plate, like they used whatever they had in their tool box drawer to put it together (and the soft flat washers).
  7. I got the 6/13 off a chart that specs which to use for which transmission and diff ratio. Do you suppose that was so you could just use a 1:1 adapter? On the Mack Museum website, the old truck parts supplier list shows Bob's Speedometer Svc. in Howell MI. There's also Deluxe Speedometer and Cable Svc. in Denver.
  8. I need to get the 90 degree adapter for the transmission to hook the cable to; my parts manual tells me to use a 6T drive gear and 13T driven gear which I assume would be behind the yoke and I don't want to take that apart. I hate to buy a 1:1 adapter and find out it's wrong, I'm sure they cost a few dollars. Anybody got an idea how to figure out if I need a different ratio adapter?
  9. Some of those mixers have low rears and lots of gears, with a Detroit you could really shift fast when you're empty going downhill!
  10. Great to hear about their hard work! When I was a senior in high school, I went to school in the morning and worked in the truck shop at Cat in the afternoon. It was a great experience for me, I'll never regret it.
  11. Now you can change the front letters to GMC (Got My Chain).
  12. Do they look like this? AgKits has PAI gaskets for $6.62 each. https://www.agkits.com/mack-exhaust-manifold-gasket-573gb257a.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqN3M5f659AIV2P6zCh1_eg1hEAQYAiABEgKexPD_BwE#.YaLmxbpOnIU
  13. You tried the sources that kscarbel and ws721 posted above?
  14. Looks like a pretty nice truck, says it's a rare heavy spec unit. I'll bet it was pretty slow pulling a heavy load with that gas engine, but then again most trucks were slow in 1939. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154694354899?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  15. What you're saying about the one-way jack sounds right...you'd have no way to pull the cab back past the "over center" point if you did take it 90 degrees.
  16. Watts had the chrome ones too but they were about $30 each.
  17. These were pretty common back in the day, but I don't have any info on them.
  18. I'm a member of BVH but I don't get to all the shows, I've seen those guys but don't know them personally. My air start system had some leaks, one thing I did was put a new ball valve on the tank outlet so when the truck is going to be sitting I can shut it off. Mowerman is right, you could look at the check valve...also soap the fittings or listen for leaks with a stethoscope hose.
  19. h67st

    Floor pan

    The foot valve is bolted into the pan, if the pan is rusted out there's nothing to hold the valve. Rick, I don't know your particular truck but pans are usually welded in.
  20. I have the SWDL56 rears on my H67, it had the brake chambers up against the frame rails so I couldn't use maxis. I saw some trucks that had the spiders rotated one bolt hole to put the brake chamber below the frame rail, I don't know if this would work on yours but as long as your parking brake is in good shape you'll be fine with it.
  21. Looks like it's coming along nicely! Good to have a helper.
  22. I want to mount my air horn...the cab roof is curved so I will need a gasket that will fill a pretty decent gap. Has anybody found some foam rubber or something that will hold up long-term for mounting stuff to the roof?
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