Challenger

2005 should be a CV 713

SPN 1127 Intake Manifold Pressure FMI 18 Data valid but below normal operating range Basically low boost, its telling you something you already noticed. I would want to know the fuel and boost pressure while road testing. These can be monitored with a laptop. If hesitation occurs and fuel pressure stays the same, but boost drops, it could be the injectors. If hesitation occurs while fuel pressure drops, its probably a fuel restriction. No fuel, no boost.

2001 Etech do not have an EGR. EGR came out in 2003 with the ASET AC engines. Maybe you are having some kind of fuel pressure problem. If you have low fuel pressure, you will have low boost pressure. No fuel pressure, no boost pressure. You can add a pressure gauge to the fuel system and ran the truck, monitor the pressure while the truck is acting up. I use a air pressure gauge( like the one the truck uses for air pressure). I remove the plug thats towards the right front of the engine, just in front of the EUPs (its the 1/4"square plug), add a fitting and 1/4" airline and the gauge. Run the 1/4" into the cab, be careful around the exhaust. This is a temporary gauge for diagnostics purposes.

MID 128 PPID 270 FMI 9 Nox sensor MID 128 SID 27 FMI 9 Turbo VGT MID 128 SID 27 FMI 2 Turbo VGT MID 128 PSID 232 1939 datalink Ive been out of the dealer for awhile but here is my guess. Remove the VGT actuator from turbo. If turbo lever moves freely, replace actuator. If lever doesnt move, replace the complete turbo. Calibrate turbo. Replace the Nox sensor. Remove radio from datalink. The radio could cause 1939 datalink problems Update all softwares. Updating softwares could resolve datalink problems. Clear codes, road test and recheck. No malfunction lights, truck runs normal, release truck.

Always back the slack adjuster/brakes off. I run them all the way back so there is a good size gap between the shoes and drum. Then beat the drum with a sledge hammer. Righty-tightey Lefty--loosey Once you have the everything together and the wheel back on, you will have to adjust the brakes. Turn the slack adjuster to the right/tighten until it stops, this is when the brakes touch the drum. Then turn the slack adjuster to the left/loosen 1/4-1/2 turn. The wheel should spin. The only time the brakes have to be released is when you're working on the rear brakes because of the spring brakes/parking brake. Front brake cans are just service/regular brakes. You can tell the difference by looking at them. Rear spring brake cans are bigger.

The metal tag is a rebuild tag. The tag means something to the rebuilder and nothing to Mack. I think the casting number is the housing part number. The stamped info on older rears like yours look like pencil dots. So instead of a solid 6, its a 6 made of dots, like pencil dots. They can be hard to read. Normally rebuilders put their metal tags over the original stamped numbers. It maybe easier to do what theakerstwo said, call the dealer with truck info and ask. But like he said its probably a 92 or 93 series.

I think AC means Air Compressor. I sometimes say AC when referring to the air compressor.

TransEdge has solid technicians. Looks like Hamlin is north of Allentown.

Did you adjust the sensor when you installed it? Turn the sensor in until it bottoms out, then back the sensor out a 1/2-3/4 turn.

The info is stamped on the front of Mack rears, but sometimes can be difficult to read. Its stamped on the front right/passenger side of the rear. Its the flat spot next to the pinion, middle to lower part of flat spot. Use a putty knife, wire brush and some brake clean.

This is why you need a good mechanic or atleast a quality control check before releasing a truck. Looks like some one didnt tighten the bolts. Maybe he got side tracked or had a worn out air gun. Inexcusable mistake. Im not big on pointing the finger at the mech, someone messed up. Always triple check your work. Check while you work, again when you're done, and again after road test. There is always time for a road test and a recheck of work. Its not a comeback until the customer takes control of his truck.

If its a 12 speed the shifter towards the left is for deep reduction and will only move while the main shifter is in 1st gear. If you attach a picture of the trans from underneath the truck, some one can tell you what it is.

Yes it is. But it sounds like you have a solid plan to get it running again.

I wouldnt think the springs are the problem. Im thinking the same thing as Dieselwrenches.

Straight forward, remove and replace. The older original lines could have 2 different size nuts at the engine head. One 13/16" and the other 3/4". If you planned on reusing the line you would want to loosen the 13/16 outer nut and then the 3/4" which is the one that threads into the head. Then reverse order for reinstalling. The newer lines will only have the 3/4" nut at the head.

Etech engines and VMAC III came out in 98. If it has EUPs, its an Etech and VMAC III. There would be 6 EUPs on the right side of the engine, each one has an injector line, they are covered with a heat shield and are just below the exhaust manifold. If it has an injection pump its VMAC II. 4-6 code for VMAC III Tachometer output-----voltage high or voltage low I dont think Ive ever seen this code before. Maybe someone else could give more info.

Ive never seen a heavy truck clutch come with an alignment tool. You can buy a plastic one, someone here probably knows where or just google it. I "acquired" mine over the years, I dont remember where it came from. The plastic one would be the way to go if you plan on lifting the clutch into place, less weight.

The clutches are heavy but you can man handle them in. They have 2 discs. You will need an alignment tool to install the clutch. Basically a tool that looks like the trans input shaft. Find 2 longer clutch mounting bolts ( the bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel). Cut the heads off and use them as guide pins while installing the clutch, that way you dont have to hold it there while installing the other mounting bolts. If you install another solo clutch, remove the caging bolts before you remove the alignment tool. If you pull the tool out first the discs will drop. Rear main seal are easy to install, just like any other seal but you will need the installer tool. You've done other clutches, you can do this. You just need a tranny jack that can hold the trans.

You need the light or know which position the switch is in. Is the switch a rocker switch with different positions? If they are locked in, you should be able to feel it when turning left or right. Get the lights working. You have enough on your mind while driving, you dont need to worry about axles being locked.

You lost me, Im confused. I thought you just found a cut wire, and werent having any problems. I have a few questions- 1--Are you having a problem? If so what is the problem? 2--Was there work done on your truck recently? What work was completed?

I think your're right, its the torque limit switch. Ive only seen that wire being used once. Maybe someone cut it off to use the connector some where else on the truck.

Any codes? Maybe you mixed up some wires while repairing them? If I was going to guess, I would say you probably tore up your electric fan wires (assuming you have this fan), maybe the EGR diff pressure sensor wires, and the boost pressure or intake air temp sensor wires (this is the sensor on the mixer tube, its even the pressure sensor or temp sensor, I get these 2 mixed up). Any one of these could cause a limp mode and prevent a regen.

Answers to your questions- 1--They only diagrams Ive seen are the VMAC diagrams. Im not sure about more in depth ones. 2--You can plug in any VMAC I module and or Bosch module and run your truck. It wont have the correct serial numbers but it will run. I do not believe you will notice any difference. If you buy a new module it will need programmed at the dealer. Some owners are ok with things not 100% some arent. 3--If the oil pressure sensor or coolant temp sensor is unplugged the truck should still start. The shutdown light would come on but the truck will start. 4--Not sure. I would check the harness like Jeremy_Brault said. You seem like you know what you are doing. Ive always had access to test modules, so its part of my troubleshooting.

Plugging a known good (test) module in would be the best way to go. Can you take one out of another truck? Maybe if you have a cool Mack dealer they would let you borrow a test module, usually a mechanic will have one. The dealer I worked at wouldve lent one out.

Thats some tough a$$ silicone, Ive used it before.