Challenger

Maybe Volvo can build a Delorean with 1.21 gigawatts and send the haters back to the 70s.

I think its the oil temp light. The oil temp and oil pressure are the same sensor. If you have an MP 8 the oil temp/pressure sensor is behind the Engine ECU. You will see 2 sensors that look alike, one on top of the other. The top one is the oil temp/pressure, the bottom one is the crankcase pressure sensor. On the right side of the engine in the oil filter housing is the piston oil cooler temp sensor. Check all 3 sensor for leaking (wicking) oil, if any are leaking(wicking), replace them. All 3 sensor have been updated so it would be a good idea just to do all 3. But like Kyle Gandy asked, whats the code? Without the code it just guesses.

No one should run out of DEF, there's a gauge. Dealers arent a magical place. Buy the needed tools and offer a dealer tech a job. Or you can always spend the money and rebuild the older ones, which is a good idea too.

If those engines and trucks came back all you would hear is, "the fuel mileage sucks, there's to much noise in the cab, blah, blah."

Mack has a service bulletin that walks you through ALL the lose of fuel prime steps. Im not sure of the number but maybe someone here does. It can be useful when you hit a wall.

You can also run a clear line from the fuel filter housing up to the rear of the head. If you have air going through this line it would mean the air is before the head. You can plug off the fuel galley in the head and apply regulated air pressure and see if it holds. We use to do that when the cup problem first came out. Fuel pressure is somewhere between 50-80 psi, so apply 65-70 psi. If the pressure drops you probably have a cup issue again. The clear line method is the "go to method" now. The fuel pressure FMI 7 code is probably because you have air in the system. Make sure someone didnt mix the lines up on the fuel pump. Look at another truck and verify your lines are routed correctly. If you dont find anything, start over at the beginning. Pretend it a new truck and start again. Clear lines first.

Good to know, thanks.

We've recently tried to hook up to an OBD II connector with our bendix software and weren't able to communicate. Called Mack and was told to unplug the 16 pin OBD II connector and plug in a 9 pin connector to use the bendix software. About 12" up the harness from the 16 pin OBD II is a blue connector (behind the dash cluster). Harness Part # 21834218 plugs into the chassis side of the blue connector and has the 9 pin circle connector which eliminates the 16 pin connector for Bendix. Seems like good info to share.

The malfunction light should go on and off every time the key is turn on. Find the lightning bolt decal light and remove the dash. The bulb could be burnt out or could've fallen out of the socket. The malfunction light needs be repaired.

5392 FMI 31 Aftertreatment DEF dosing valve loss of prime. Basically it means your doser loss its prime. Did the truck run out of DEF fluid? If the truck runs out of DEF fluid it can kick this code. If it didnt run out of def fluid it will need to go to a dealer. Could be a plugged line or bad pump. We have seen bad DEF pumps.

Asets water pumps can suck air and cause it to push coolant. Remove water pump belt and see if it stops pushing. The Wabco/Meritor air compressors also caused it to push coolant. Bypass the air compressor coolant lines and run the truck. These were the 2 most common reasons that I remember the Asets pushing coolant.

Maybe low fuel and or boost pressure? I would hook gauges up and road test.

They're the same engines. Software, valve cover, and intakes are the only differences. The valve covers and intakes just say the brand but have the same bolt patterns. MP7=D11 MP8=D13 Never seen an MP10, so cant say for sure if its the same as the D16.

Mid 128 Sid 27 Fmi 9 Turbo actuator. abnormal update No turbo, no power. You probably have a bad actuator. When looking at your turbo the actuator is the square box bolted to the side with 4 allen head bolts. There were some problems with the connectors fretting, which makes your terminals greenish and dusty. Normally we would check the connector and remove the actuator to check the turbo lever movement. If the lever sticks or doesnt move a complete stroke the complete turbo would need replaced. But if the lever moves, replace the actuator, calibrate the turbo and road test.

If you want a Granite buy the Granite. Some people love the new trucks and some people hate them. Most of the people who dislike the new Macks are the old school injection pump gray engine guys. Alot of big fleets are still running Mack and Volvo and its not because they're junk. Besides, all new trucks are having problems. Next time someone says the new Mack are junk, ask they what year Mack they have, I bet its a 1997 or older.

2001 is an ETECH. I would also think injectors. You can pull them and have them popped tested at a dealer.

Its the beginning of a synchro failure, not sure on Eaton prices.

Could you've done something wrong, maybe. Could there be more then 1 problem, YES. Did you find a cup and injector with carbon? Real carbon, not the carbon people say they see thats not really there. That happens to everybody. When you say check balls, do you mean the filter housing check ball? Start over. Check your fuel lines from the tank all the way to the head. Make sure everything is tight, its possible to have a loose line on the suction side and not see a leak. Do you have duel tanks? If you do, make sure the fuel lines are good at the junction where the 2 tank lines come together.

Yes, Etechs and newer. VMAC III cal codes are real simple to program, takes like 15 minutes.

Probably related to the egr code. What was the code?

The EUP is probably bad. Unbolt and move the heat shield out of the way. Remove the injector line and eup wires from the terminals. Remove 1 eup mounting bolt and loosen the other, leave about a 1/4 of the threads still in. Eups stick, so when you knock it loose it will pop and the bolt will keep if from shooting out. Clean the hole. Replace the EUP, 2 mounting bolts and the injector line. DONOT OVER TIGHTEN THE EUP WIRE TERMINALS, THEY WILL BREAK! Reinstall all parts and prime fuel system. Its a straight forward simple job. The cal code will need programmed which the dealer can do. You can write the number down and drive the truck to them. The cal code is a 4 digit number located on the lower right side of the EUP-this is looking at it while installed.

You wont see a loss of boost, more then likely the solenoid wont open the valve. Emissions related.

You cant teach old dogs new tricks.

MP7 04 emissions Is the malfunction light on? Do you have any codes? Did you monitor your fuel pressure? Are you sure its steady while it looses power? Have you monitored the boost pressure?

3675 Engine Turbocharger Compressor Bypass Valve Position Mid 128 PPID FMI 7 On your turbo discharge line there is a valve that opens and allows air to flow back into the intake side of the turbo. Its controlled by the DRV valve on the left side of the engine. Its a small square solenoid near the Engine ECU. Your DRV solenoid could be bad. Or maybe its acting up just because its cold out. Running the truck with this code will not cause any damage.