Challenger

Sounds like your turbo is passing oil. Grab the propeller nut and check for up and down play.

What truck? What engine?

Give all your codes exactly how Guided Diagnostic gives them. What exactly have you replaced? I've seen alot of fleets with dirty DEF fluid. I've also seen DEF dosers leaking.

You can buy EUP oring kits. Replace EUP mounting bolts everytime. Always leave one eup bolt loose while removing the spring tension of the eup. When the eup "pops" loose the bolt will keep it in the hole and not flying through your shop.

How did you change the hand pump? Primer pumps are part of the fuel filter housing. Is the malfunction light on? Check where the fuel goes into the top side of the EECU cooler. Its a 90 degree fitting that trash can caught in and cause low fuel pressure.

3-2 Engine timing sensor This code could cause excessive cranking and low power. There are 2 sensors, engine timing sensor and engine position sensor. One is on the front cover reading the cam (next to the breather), the other one is in the left lower flywheel housing. They are the same sensor but I cant remember which one is timing and which one is position. You probably have a bad sensor. 5-3 Shutdown lamp Is your shutdown light turning on and off when you cycle the key? I could be a bad bulb.

Mid 128 Pid 26 FMI 3 Fan speed code. You should have an electric fan with a connector on the driverside of the engine. Is the fan running all the time or not running? Are the wires damaged from dragging on the belt or pulley?

I've worked with people from Allentown, the glory days are the only days they talk about. All Im suggesting is, Mack did something wrong which resulted in Volvo buying them out, It wasn't Volvo's fault. Anyways, Merry Christmas.

You could work your way through 07 emissions with vcads. You're only suppose to check 10 emissions codes with Guided Diagnostics. Vcads will give you a somewhat generic code, while GD will give you the actual code (10 emissions). Ive never seen the customer version of vcads-techtool.

You sound like one of those hard headed Allentown old Mack guys. Im going to guess you were an engineer or above and refused to change your old Mack ways. You seem like a very intelligent guy, why so much disgust?

They're the same engines. Looking at the bright side, atleast Mack is still around and lots of Americans still have jobs. I'd rather be working on a VOLVOmack engine then not working at all.

I feel bad for everyone when their trucks run out of warranty. The only ones that are going to be able to repair the problems are factory trained techs with the proper tools. I've seen small fleets who went from E7 injection pumps straight to MPs 2010 emissions. How are the mechanics suppose to deal with those trucks? Its night and day. Turning up the "puff" and VMAC III days are over.

Sounds like the NOX sensors are working correctly. The code is just telling you something is making the value to high. Is this the same truck as your other thread? Guessing is just going to cost time and money. Take it to a dealer.

You're going to need PTT to figure out the problem. You will not be able to guess what the problems is. Take it to a dealer. It can be ANYTHING.

Take it to a different Mack dealer, those guys are guessing. So many questions. Why was the DPF replaced in the first place? Cracked? Melted? Upselling? Its going to come down to the first failure and a tech that knows whats going on. All the parts that were replaced or "cleaned" after the first failure were complete guesses. Without a techtool (computer) it will be hard to figure out. With a techtool it shouldnt be hard to figure out. Maybe the 7th injector was plugged or bad originally. Maybe the new 7th injector is flowing way to much fuel into the system which could have caused the melted sensors. 7th injectors can be flow tested. How could they tell you the 7th injector is fine but its throwing an active code? New parts come bad out of the box. Whats the regen temp? Whats the flow on the 7th injector? If I was working on this, I would forgot everything they said and start from the beginning. Flow test the 7th injector.

The electronic fan, boost pressure sensor, intake air temp and humidity sensor are on that 5 volt refrence. If one of those sensors or fan goes bad it can knock out the hole circuit causing the 5 volt refrence code. Unplug the fan, see if the code changes. Unplug the boost sensor, see if the code changes. Unplug the air temp and humidity sensor, see if the code changes. If the code changes that part/sensor could be the problem. Other then replacing the fan and eecu, what else has been done? I would assume they check these sensors/parts before replacing the eecu. I've seen more boost sensors go bad then the rest.

Im not a fan of PAI trans parts.

The synchronizer will cost about $1000, add the hi gear, lo gear, fork, gaskets, oil and seal, and you're way past $1000. Add labor and you're about $1000 cheaper then a reman. In the end you have a good rear case and a questionable main case. Not to mention the warranty isnt really anything. If the trans is on the floor, go with the reman. All good parts and a 2 year warranty. 258k miles, reman trans is the way to go. Parts prices are up and reman prices are down. I repair/rebuild Mack gears. A couple years ago all T2 and T3 trans were repaired or rebuilt. Now, when I do a repair part list and compare it to the reman price, the difference isnt worth the money saved. If its on the ground, get the reman and be done with it.

Are you using TechTool to hook up to the truck?

Rear air ride suspension? Ride height problem?

Another vote for injector cups.

Its hard to find anyone with real experience on Freedoms. We have one guy who has some experience with the electronics and he calls the 1 guy at Mack who can help. Its funny you mentioned the fuel filters not being changed because I have seen that before. Its difficult getting parts and help with those. Good Luck. Talk the company into buying Hino's. Ditch the Freedom.

Also check the coolant hose clamp under the tstat. Get a flash light and look back in there, you would need a 7mm socket and long extension to back there and tighten the clamp. We've seen loose clamps causing regular leaks or cold leaks.

The only difference between a Mack 13 and 18 speed is the shift knob. They both have T2180 or T318 stamped on side of the trans. A 13 speed is stamped T2180 or T318. Anybody know the price difference?

Engine ECUs can be damaged from wrecks. Plug in a known good engine ecu. If it runs you have a bad EECU.