Challenger

When you buy your oring kit ask the Mack parts guy to print out the rear top cover illustration page. You can use this as a guide for reassembling. Or just mark every piece in order to help you while reassembling. Its not that difficult, but sometimes I have to break out the book because I forget which way parts face. Time seems to be important for you, so every bit helps. Once you have the cover off, there is an interlock pin inbetween the cylinders. This allows only one cylinder to engage. The pin has to hold one cylinder shaft for the other to come out. So if you cant pull a shaft out, its because the other shaft isnt in the correct position. Just a heads up so you can save time.

Is this related to your other thread about a trans stuck in hi range? If it is, pick one of your threads and stick with it. What kind of 10 speed? Mack, Eaton, Meritor? Come on, help us help you.

How did the new EECU get programmed? Was all the customer data programmed? Ive never heard of a customer picking an EECU up.

Yes, I do. TRTXL 1070s are still running strong.

Mack trans cost more money to rebuild than Eaton. Having a dealer rebuild/replace the back section of Mack is somewhere around $3000-3500. Thats without touching the maincase. Parts prices are up and reman prices are down. If only one case of the Mack needs repaired, rebuilding is worth it. If both cases need rebuilt or repaired, Mack reman is the better option. This is just my opinion I what I have seen in the last year for T2s and T3s. Eatons are cheaper. Eaton will allow you to rebuild an entire trans under warranty. Mack would ok the replacement of a trans with a reman, instead of rebuilding the entire trans. Buy the time you add the parts and labor for a Mack, you would exceed the price of a reman. I think Macks are easier to rebuild than Eatons. But Ive done more Macks than Eatons. This is because I work on Mack and another guy worked on Eatons. The only difference between a Mack 13 speed and 18 speed is the shifter and shift pattern sticker on the dash. Its the same physical trans, there is no difference with the trans.

Make sure the clutch pedal is touching the clutch switch everytime the clutch pedal is released. You should hear a click. Alot of times it seems like the clutch pedal may not return the last 1/2" or so, which is just enough not to activate the switch.

Do you have a fuse box (EPDM) on the firewall above the engine? I dont remember which years had the EPDM (fuse box). But if it does, the fuse should be in there. Im pretty sure they started with ETECHs and VMAC III. The EPDM usually has a diagram, inside cab fuse boxes dont always. Doesnt make sense, but it is what it is.

Your dealer gets my vote for, "worst dealer of the year." What they are saying is false and completely made up. My guess is they ran all the techs out who know what they were doing. VMAC III and older require more skill and know how to program, VMAC IV and newer are simple and almost dummy proof.

No stainless cups for the '04 emissions MP7s. The engines without regen.

The round cylinder on the driver side is the direct/lo cylinder. This cylinder will have air to both direct and lo fittings while selecting reverse, this puts them in neutral so reverse can be selected. The square cylinder on the passenger side is the reverse/neutral shift cylinder. The fitting on the passenger side is reverse and the one on the rear is neutral. Just wanted to clear that up. If the breather is clogged it could cause a delayed reverse because the direct and lo wouldnt go into the neutral position correctly. Sounds like you're good to go. If it happens again replace the orings.

When you have a low power complaint you NEED to know your fuel and boost pressures. You'll just waste money troubleshooting without fuel and boost pressures. It would be easy to waste $3000 to finally realize you have a bad fuel filter, or cigarette butts in your fuel tank causing low fuel pressure.

Maybe I should have read the entire question. When I was an apprentice I asked a journeyman which way the slip joint faced. He said, "Which way does your d#ck face?", I said forward, he said, "Well, there you go, the d#ck goes forward." I never needed to ask and again.

If it is a programmed "cool down time", cycling the key twice should shut it down.

While driving or moving, clutch pedal in (disengaged). Troubleshooting, truck just needs full air pressure. Truck doesnt need to be running.

It should only go in one way. If you have 3 drivelines from trans to front rear that means you have 2 carrier bearings. It should go in one way, I dont think all 3 drive lines would be the same size.

Your welcome, good luck.

Even if you destroyed the power divider (I dont think you did), when you flip the switch the light should come on. The indicator light is just saying the switch is "on, " it doesnt actually know what the power divider is doing. Lets say the switch is bad, the light wont come on and the power divider wont engage.

I would think most Mack dealers have the kit in stock. Its just a bag of orings. I dont remember the part number but someone here knows it, if not the Mack parts guy will. The orings are made for the trans, they're not standard orings.

That is your power divider. The airline going to the shift cylinder is the supply airline. Remove the airline and flip the dash switch. If you have air, it could be a power divider problem. No air, and its before the power divider (maybe the switch). Since you dont hear any type of click and have no indicator light I would lean towards an air supply problem.

The round cylinder on the driver side is the direct/lo cylinder. The square one on the passenger side is the neutral/reverse cylinder. The air fitting on the side of the neutral/reverse (passenger side) is the reverse supply air line. You could remove the airline from the reverse cylinder and select neutral/reverse and see if the supply is quick or slow. If the air supply seems ok, you may need to remove the top cover and replace all the orings in the top cover shift cylinders. It looks like you have plenty of space above the top cover to remove it. There is a oring kit that comes with all the rear top cover orings. Also replace your little circle stone breather thats on the bottom of the direct/lo cylinder (round cylinder on driver side) If the air supply is slow or intermittent, you could have a bad inversion valve or shifter. The airline from the reverse fitting runs back to the inversion valve. Alot of problems with air selection are the top cover orings.

2 things needed, 1- COMPETENT DEALER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2-Extended warranty

Simple and easy=truck back on the road.

Where does your air comp receive its supply air from? Air filter housing? Intake manifold? Home made breather? Make sure everything on your supply side is good to go.

Air disengages the fan clutch.

There is a pin that goes through the shifter and cone shape housing that bolts to the trans. Maybe its broke, pull the floor and take a look. If its broke you could knock the pin out and just put a bolt and nut in its place. Or replace the the entire shifter. Also check your trans mount ears for loose bolts and rubber mounts. Since you described it as "violently", I would think the problem would be visible.