Challenger

See if the driveshaft spins. If it spins, follow the driveshaft. If it doesn't spin, problem in the rear case of the trans.

TRTXL 1070

To add more info. #2 could be the problem. It could be shorted and causing a problem which is knocking out injectors 1 and 3 which are on the same bank. Which would mean 1 and 3 injectors are fine and #2 was/is the problem the entire time. Try unplugging #2 and running the engine at idle. Disconnecting the injector will remove it from the bank. If the codes switches to only 2, its probably the problem. This might work and be a lot less time wasted then switching injectors around.

Did you have the grease gun hooked up when the tool slipped. Maybe you snapped the grease fitting off and it stuck to the throw out bearing with grease. I don't see the throw out bearing rotating anywhere being inside the fork.

Unrelated but your fuel pressure seems high. Is it at 95 at idle or running? Few years back I was working on a MP7 with low power. No codes everything looked ok. The fuel pressure was 95 at idle and over a 100 when running. I remember thinking, the more the better. Turned out someone put the fuel regulator at the back of the head instead of the front of the head. Switched them around and truck ran normal and fuel pressure dropped. Like I said unrelated but maybe useful info in the future.

1,2,3 injectors are on one bank. 4,5,6 are another bank. Maybe #2 shorted out 1 and 3. Switch 2 with 4,5,6 and see if the problem follows the injector.

I'm surprised not to see UPS on the list.

I learned something new today, its a good day.

411 is EGR Diff pressure sensor. The sensor is mounted to the Venturi tube. There are 2 ports that go through the venturi tube for the egr diff press sensor, these can plug up. Remove sensor and see if the ports are clear. It could also be a bad egr diff press sensor or a bad connection at the sensor. Venturi tube and egr diff pressure sensor are located on the passanger side of engine towards the front, just about the middle. Its part of the tube coming from the egr cooler and going up and over to the mixer at the intake.

Ive replaced the square oring/gasket by removing the water pump housing and everything you stated. The other option is removing the oil cooler and everything that goes with it, which is a WAY bigger pain. I would say, continue what you are doing and replace the square oring/gasket. I don't think the silicone will hold, and isn't worth the chance of a breakdown.

Behind the passenger side kick panel. The black metal panel at the passenger's feet.

All modules sold. I apologize for not updating post.

I like a clean shop, not hard to do when you're by yourself. Ya, the owner is a very patient person.

Here's one of them and her little sister.

2-1 Coolant temp sensor Location-- back of water manifold which is above the intake manifold. The ASET has 2 sensor, cant remember if the Etech had 2. But if there is 2, the VMAC sensor is small and sticks out the back of the water manifold , the coolant gauge sensor is fat and sticks out of the side of the water manifold. You would want to replace the VMAC coolant sensor.

Gray engine with Mack or Eaton trans--pilot bearing with snap ring Red engine with Mack or Eaton trans-no snap ring on pilot bearing

I feel like an apprentice because I have no idea what emissions test you guys are talking about.

The fuel check valve is what regulates your fuel pressure. The spring can wear out or something gets stuck in it and holds it open. Low power or stumble complaints-- Check for codes and fuel and boost pressures. Never assume, check them. Etech stuttering or stumbling sounds like a fuel pressure problem.

Stay away from that dealer!

At first I was thinking, "What the hell is this guy talking about?" Then I noticed, happy 4-1-16. April fools.

We always called it the cactus hose.

To add some info. The DRV (valve) is located on the turbo discharge pipe. The plastic 1/4" line on the solenoid is the supply airline. The metal line on the solenoid runs air over to the valve. This line can break around the solenoid or rub through around the turbo, they can break anywhere but these are the most common. Just a few things to look at while troubleshooting your code.

Driver/left side of engine, towards the center. It will have a 1/4" plastic airline and a metal airline and 1 plastic round connector. If you remove the connector, the solenoid should be blue. Its normally painted over but once you remove the connector you will see the blue.

Its probably the beginning of a synchronizer failure. The synchronizer is what makes your range shift. Mack had a problem with the pinch bolt for the synchro fork coming loose causing incomplete shifts. If you never had a synchro replacement, its the synchro.

The temp sensor and gauge have nothing to do with the fan engagement. Its strictly an instrument gauge. This should be the fat sensor sticking out of the side of the water manifold. How long has this gauge not read properly? The VMAC sensor runs the engine fan, this is the sensor that tells the EECU how hot the engine is running. If its bad and jumping around in readings the fan will follow. This is the smaller sensor sticking out of the back of the water manifold. If your autometer reads steady and doesnt jump around, replace the VMAC temp sensor sticking out of the back of the water manifold. I replace this sensor with out draining the coolant. Remember this will not correct your original gauge reading, but hopefully repair the fan and running hot problem. Good luck