Challenger

1--linkage adjustment 2--Clutch adjustment at/on the clutch- Normally if its an easy pedal it has the 5/8 bolt head. Hold the clutch pedal down, push the 5/8 bolt head in and turn right "tighten" the bolt. This will add freeplay. Turning the bolt left or "loosen" will take freeplay away. Make sure the bolt springs back out or it will turn while the engine runs. This is what you need to do to add freeplay. If its a Solo clutch, its self adjusting. This style has the wear indicator. Basically its says new and replace, the indicator moves as it wears. I normally go from the inside clutch adjustment, then outside linkage adjustment. Some people do the opposite.

Eaton/Meritor trans---Burn it out Mack trans---Air hammer with a sharp chisel bit and go to town. Good times

The engine should have 2 coolant temp sensors. One for the gauge and one for VMAC III. They are both mounted onto the water manifold. The gauge sensor is the "fatter" sensor sticking out of the side of the water manifold. The VMAC III sensor is the smaller sensor sticking out of the back of the manifold. Its the VMAC sensor that operates the fan. Since the fan and temp gauge work off of different sensors, when one goes bad they wont be in line with eachother.

Torque limiter. I had that happen once, years ago. So much time was wasted finding the problem.

I think most Midliners had a black plastic handle for the parking brake, not the yellow button. Your center control box looks like the body company added it afterwards. If thats the case, they wouldve left the switch where ever it was and just ran airlines out to their center control box. That would explain why the parking brake light switch isnt near the parking brake button/handle.

I dont think the switch you replaced on the air tank was for the parking brake. Maybe it was a low air pressure sensor. I would do what 41chevy says and follow the parking brake airlines, starting at the parking brake switch. You'll find it.

Probably should take it to a dealer. Maybe a software program problem or a bad cluster. Clusters are modules, just like the EECU. You could check the connector on the back of the cluster, but I would take it to the dealer.

Ive seen guys mix up the fuel lines on the fuel pump when swapping engines. Maybe the cam timing sensor and crank timing sensor wire connectors are mixed up? I cant remember if that would kick a code or not. Just something to check since they can be mixed up easily. Did you reuse the VEB/engine brake solenoid? Does it have an engine brake? Ive installed a few engine brakes and had bad VEB solenoids straight out of the box. Truck starts, oil pressure builds, defective VEB allows oil to pass, which activates engine brake shutting it down. The few seconds could be the time it takes to build oil pressure before the shutdown.

8mm for the mounting bolt. I break it loose with an allen wrench and small cheater pipe. I cut a 1/2" piece off of the allen wrench, put that piece in a ratchet wrench and use them to remove the bolt. Then reverse order to reinstall the bolt.

Manual or automated? Your original post seems like you have a range shift problem. But since you checked fuses and solenoids it sounds like you have an automated transmission. If its automated there should be a code.

What kind of transmission is it?

2 fuse box locations. 1-Center top dash under the removable triangle shaped plastic cover 2-To the left of the clutch pedal or brake pedal

Can you read inactive codes? Record inactive codes, clear codes, run truck and see what codes come back. Active or inactive, see what comes back.

1-Fuel pump leaking fuel past the shaft into the engine. 2-There is a fuel galley plug under the front engine cover. Its under the cover mounting surface. They can come loose and leak. Removing the oil pan, pressurizing the fuel system and looking for the leak is the only way to find it.

Mack had problems with the windshield seal leaking a few years back (not sure of the years effected). The water would leak down on the EPDM and cause corrosion. There was a PI which called for replacing the EPDM and adding a rubber gasket to the EPDM which would deflect the water away from the EPDM. Its kinda like putting a baseball hat on in the rain, its still raining but your face isn't getting wet. The EPDM is a fuse box that is very simple to replace.

You gave a good description of the problem and already eliminated possible problems. Im stumped, lets see what others think.

Unplug the solenoids from the outside of the valve cover and run the truck. This will just make sure there isnt power going to the solenoids.

Just to make sure. There are 2 orings for each solenoid. One on the solenoid and one fat oring that goes on the end of the solenoid and goes down into the rocker shaft. The fat oring is sold separate from the solenoid.

Ive seen EUPs code when they are cold and go out when it warms up. If it runs fine you dont need to worry about it. Its more of a nuisance seeing the light come on. Will it be a problem? Maybe, maybe not. Is possible another EUP could fail before the one kicking a code. Im sure there are alot of guys on this site running around with the random EUP code. If the malfunction light doesnt bother you and the truck runs fine, I wouldnt worry about it.

Did you run the truck to see if its shutting down with the oil pressure? If its shutting down with the oil pressure it could be a solenoid. I didnt expect you to find a bad oring, that would have made it to easy. And you know it cant be easy. Assuming it shutdown with the oil pressure going up, I would replace both solenoids. Im not sure about the check ball you are referring too, Im drawing a complete blank. Compare them together, are they both doing the samething? I should have already asked this, Is it a Jake brake or Power leash engine brake. Jake brakes have the jake housing, a valve cover and spacer that the the valve cover seats on. Kinda looks like 2 valve covers Power leash just has 1 valve cover per head and the just a rocker shaft with a solenoid.

Add the shortage of mechanics too. Driver shortage + mechanic shortage = A mess for the trucking industry.

Maybe an engine brake solenoid sticking open or a cut oring for the solenoid. Start the truck and watch the oil pressure gauge. Does the truck start to shutdown when the oil pressure goes up? Since its shutting down with in a few seconds, this could be the amount of time it takes to build oil pressure. And with a bad engine brake solenoid or split solenoid oring, once the oil pressure builds up it could be bogging the engine down to shut down. In this case you would have no codes and good fuel pressure. If engine is shutting down when oil pressure is building- Remove both engine brake solenoids and check the orings on the solenoid and the one that sticks in the rocker shaft. If you find a cut oring, replace orings and recheck. If you dont find a bad oring it could be a bad solenoid. Only way to know is replace both solenoids with known good ones or gamble and replace them.

There should be a junction box (I dont remember what its called) near the rear crossmember. The wires should run from the front of the truck, back to the box then split out to the rear lights. I would break the circuit down one light at a time at the rear of the truck. Go from the light to the junction box. The problem could be anywhere but its a good place to start.

Maybe the ride height is to high?

You can swap side mount PTOs from T2s and T3s. They have the same PTO drive gear. Im not sure about using PTOs from TRTXL 107 series with the T2s and T3s.